10ft inflatable rated for 15 hp max (Thinking about adding a 20hp engine?!!)

NickDK

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Jul 18, 2013
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24
Wow thank you for the input Lemondrop!
Based on what I've read so far I believe you are considering a sib with an air floor or possibly an aluminum or wooden floor in the neighbor hood of 12' - 14' with a 20hp 4 stroke. That's not to say you would not consider other options. Your biggest issue (aside form boat & motor selection) is getting the rig from above the rocks to the beach with the boat prepared to launch.
You're right, this is my base needs. I have started to look at small RIB's too but the challenge is similar.

For you ramp, I would acquire 2 sheets of 3/4" x 8' x 4' outdoor plywood. 3 16' pressure treated 2 x 4's, a 4' steel hinge. Cut the 2 x 4's in half and mount them on the side opposite the hinge on each side and down the middle. That way when the ramp is unfolded, the 2 x 4's provide strength and support. The ramp can then be folded and stored when not in use. That will give you a 16' run to the beach.
I'm pretty sure I understand your structure and I have calculated the weight and such a ramp isn't lightweight - I understand that it's folded but still a single bulk to move around?
Here's the mass for the parts:

Full plywood sheet =98lbs/44kg
Pressure treated 2X4's - 16ft weight: 34 Lbs x 3 =102lbs (15,4kg) x3 = 46,2kg
Total: 200 lbs/90kg

How strong do you think a structure like this will be? Do you see it as being supported anywhere underneath?


I would then acquire a winch like those commonly used to retrieve boats onto a trailer and use that to get the rig down to and back up from the beach. This of course assumes you have launch wheels mounted on the transom. I am comfortable the BeachMaster wheels will suffice in getting the fully rigged outfit (as described above up & down to the beach).
Winch sounds good!

Moving the rig around can be problematic with my shoulders. I typically load everything in the rear of the boat and move it around to balance out the boat once in the water (makes it easier to lift the bow).
With regards to removing the launching wheels...... If installed properly on the transom, they will be above the water line when on plane. Removing them is not that easy to do on the water as they have four latches in fairly precise locations. It's hard to get at the latches when the wheels are not extended. Once you release the latches (remember the wheels are extended), the wheels are bouyant enough that it is very difficult to release the other latches. I have noticed no degradation in performance with wheels on or improved performance with wheels off. Loaded as, stated in previous posts, I consistently can get 28 mph WOT if I choose too (GPS). Normally run it anywhere from 1/3 to 1/2 throttle around achieving around 18 mph.
Probably other solutions to consider, but, this is how I would approach the issue.
Great info on the launching wheels. I would prefer not to have to remove them so good to hear you don't see any degrading from keeping them attached.

If I compare your structure to something made in aluminium, I would with the same weight be able to handle a 2000+ lbs weight. And it would be very durable, but non folding. I would try to scale i a bit down as i think it would be quite a catch 22 starting to lift and place a 200 lbs ramp.
 

Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
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Assume you will remove the existing rocks under future sib/rib ramp so one extreme is supported by plateau and other by the beach, if so could make it bit longer to achieve a less steep angle. If it's a wooden ramp could place a middle support under ramp.

No way you will be able to pull a sib/rib from lower ramp, including counting with proper launching wheels with a manual winch, too much weight and the winch handle is not that large to be man handled alone. Bear in mind that when winching (if that's a correct term) trailer slides under boat helped by fixed skate rollers located throughout the trailer hull bed. Sliding a hull that way is a piece of cake with wipped cream included.

Will need a 12 V electric winch, the ones sold at car stores or a 110 V winch. If can pull a SUV out of muddy terrains, can't see why won't pull a boat through a 6-7 meter steep long ramp. You could winch down boat through ramp along engine and gear with Benchmaster wheels and reverse procedure after boating is over BUT, there's always a but. Will need a front bow like support with wheels to raise bow while winching both ways. Pulling a loaded Rib through sand and into the water and viseverse is not that simple as sliding same on a hard surface, sand being not compact will create hull drag. Will need at least a boating buddy to help you out.

Bombard used to have a hand driven bow trolley with wheels that attached to bow handle, worked very well for large Comando inflatables while beaching using launching wheels at back transom, which by the way were removable. Can't see no issue removing wheels when boat is floating and reversing procedure when returning, but that's if you plan not taking them along with you. If you plan going that route will need a RIB specially if plan winching boat up & down the ramp in reverse by means of front towing U ring.

Happy Boating
 
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lemondrop9344

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Dec 9, 2012
Messages
51
2 x 4's would be attached on the top of the plywood via screws and glue opposite the hinge side. Support does not always need to be at the bottom. Launch wheels would track either side of the center 2 x 4. I would feel comfortable winching my boat with this set up which I estimate to be 400 #'s loaded (no people of course).

Not sure what kind of budget you are dealing with............ Obviously aluminum would be the way to go if you are willing to front the expense. Ramp only needs to be as wide as the track of the launching wheels. Aluminum L channel of sufficient strength could be be used by welding or bolting then so as the outside distance is the same for the full run. The L channel would prevent the wheels from getting off track. One portion of the L channel would allow the wheels to roll on it and the other portion of L channel would keep it from wandering off the ramp. As you are on the water (don't know if it's tidal or a freshwater lake), there are most likely businesses which fabricate aluminum docking you could approach with ideas.

SeaRider, I must respectfully disagree with your position that a manual winch would not work. Is it as good as an electric winch, no. My intent was to provide some alternative ideas for NickDK to consider which would be budget friendly. I have a $35.00 winch with 30' of strap rated at 1200 #'s. I'm confident it would pull a 400 # boat with launching wheels up any reasonable grade. Most likely, it mounted high enough, it would be capable of lifting the entire rig vertically. The way these things are geared it would take time, but, it would do it.

With regards to removing the wheels, specifically the BeachMaster retractable wheels, their design is such that it is very difficult to remove them when the boat is in the water for the reasons I outlined previously. Since I experienced no degradation in my rigs performance while using them (retracted of course), I shared this information. They also come in handy when beaching.

NickDK, keep us informed of your progress. Good luck.
 

Sea Rider

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Why would someone prefer a manual winch versus an electric one. Just press a button and near instant voila. Winching up manually a boat at a steep ramp is not same as winching it down. It's like hikking up a hill which is near easy as opposed descending same in which your legs strive and struggle more. In this particular case we're talking about hand (s).

If future boater is already planning investing money and we are not talking about peanuts cost money, how much would an electric winch cost. Preffer one zillion times investing wise on an electric winch than tyring my hand needlesly, now imagine doing it frequently or on a daily basis while at summer. Let's leave that discordant tech issue entirely to him.

Found my old and dusty Zodiac/Bombard catalogue, this is the bow trolley was talking about.

Bombard Commando Trolley.JPG

Happy Boating
 

Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
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12,345
Why would someone prefer a manual winch versus an electric one. Just press a button and near instant voila. Winching up manually a boat at a steep ramp is not same as winching it down. It's like hikking up a hill which is near easy as opposed descending same in which your legs strive and struggle more. In this particular case we're talking about hand (s).

If future boater is already planning investing money and we are not talking about peanuts cost money, how much would an electric winch cost. Preffer one zillion times investing wise on an electric winch than tyring or even injuring my hand needlesly, now imagine doing it frequently or on a daily basis while at summer. Let's leave that discordant tech issue entirely to him.

Nobody said something about performance degradation, the issue is that you'll be adding 30 + kilos to a 4 strokes engine which is already heavy if going for a sib. Who would dare go boating with launch wheels at down position.

Found my old and dusty Zodiac/Bombard catalogue, this is the bow trolley was talking about.

Bombard Commando Trolley.JPG

Happy Boating
 
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NickDK

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Joined
Jul 18, 2013
Messages
24
Assume you will remove the existing rocks under future sib/rib ramp so one extreme is supported by plateau and other by the beach, if so could make it bit longer to achieve a less steep angle. If it's a wooden ramp could place a middle support under ramp.
it shouldn't be necessary to remove any rocks if I go for a 6 meter alu ramp. (Unless there's something i have overlooked)

No way you will be able to pull a sib/rib from lower ramp, including counting with proper launching wheels with a manual winch, too much weight and the winch handle is not that large to be man handled alone. Bear in mind that when winching (if that's a correct term) trailer slides under boat helped by fixed skate rollers located throughout the trailer hull bed. Sliding a hull that way is a piece of cake with wipped cream included.
[/QUOTE]
I have looked into electric winches and it's doable. There's a some clever products out there.

Bombard used to have a hand driven bow trolley with wheels that attached to bow handle, worked very well for large Comando inflatables while beaching using launching wheels at back transom, which by the way were removable. Can't see no issue removing wheels when boat is floating and reversing procedure when returning, but that's if you plan not taking them along with you. If you plan going that route will need a RIB specially if plan winching boat up & down the ramp in reverse by means of front towing U ring.
Just to be clear, i'm not planning on sliding the boat down the ramp, it will be wheeled on either a small 'vehicle' or as I prefer via transom and bow wheels to keep things simple.

Nobody said something about performance degradation, the issue is that you'll be adding 30 + kilos to a 4 strokes engine which is already heavy if going for a sib. Who would dare go boating with launch wheels at down position.
Where do the 30+ kilo come from? The objective would be to add as little weight as possible. But my comment regarding keeping the Beachmaster wheels on, is only based on me thinking it would be easier.

Found my old and dusty Zodiac/Bombard catalogue, this is the bow trolley was talking about.
Yes something like that looks good. I'll investigate!
 

NickDK

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Joined
Jul 18, 2013
Messages
24
2 x 4's would be attached on the top of the plywood via screws and glue opposite the hinge side. Support does not always need to be at the bottom. Launch wheels would track either side of the center 2 x 4. I would feel comfortable winching my boat with this set up which I estimate to be 400 #'s loaded (no people of course).
Ahh yes I follow your design! - sounds good.

Not sure what kind of budget you are dealing with............ Obviously aluminum would be the way to go if you are willing to front the expense. Ramp only needs to be as wide as the track of the launching wheels. Aluminum L channel of sufficient strength could be be used by welding or bolting then so as the outside distance is the same for the full run. The L channel would prevent the wheels from getting off track. One portion of the L channel would allow the wheels to roll on it and the other portion of L channel would keep it from wandering off the ramp. As you are on the water (don't know if it's tidal or a freshwater lake), there are most likely businesses which fabricate aluminum docking you could approach with ideas.
My budget isn't limitless, but If I can get a good quality alu ramp manufactured that would be solid at take a high load I go for that I think as it will open up for other things to be lowered to the beach like jetskis if the desire should ever appear. The water is saltwater, but not highly salty.

NickDK, keep us informed of your progress. Good luck.
I will keep you updated, i'll start by getting an idea about the aluminium ramp possibilities!


I just got notice that these launchwheels are in stock again http://www.kizomarine.com/ultimate-dinghy-wheels.html total weight 5 kg, and 320kg load. does any know about them? How would they compare to Beachmaster?
 
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Chopperbill

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Mar 26, 2014
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389
Only thing I know about those wheels is they are $310! I paid $75 for mine and they work great.
 

lemondrop9344

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Dec 9, 2012
Messages
51
NickDK
With regards to the launch beach wheels in the link you posted. Design concept is similar to the BeachMaster wheels. Retracting and locking mechanism is a little different than what is found on the BeachMaster's. I suspect weight is comparable. I also suspect these (the ones in the link) are relatively new to the market as I did not see them when I searched for launch wheels.
Some thoughts with regards to transom weights in the size range boat you are considering. Quality 2 stroke engines, (new or used) are, at best, difficult to come by in some countries. As a result, inflatable boat manufacturers have modified their designs to support the weight of the heavier 4 stroke motors. While I am not familiar with all the inflatable boat manufacturers, quality boats in the 12' -14' size will all support 4 stroke outboard motors rated up to 25hp, some even higher. The point being, the added weight of the launch wheels hanging off the transom is essentially insignificant on an inflatable this size.. I'm not sure where the 30+ kilo number for the launch wheels originated.
You might be interested in knowing that Suzuki now has a 25hp 2 cylinder 4 stroke weighing in at 133 #'s. I've not been able to find any other manufacturer of outboard motors offering new 2 cylinder 25hp 4 strokes.
We all are providing suggestion and ideas based on our own experiences and what we perceive you are trying to accomplish. Some are more experienced than others, some have more discretionary spending than others and we all like to think what we did with our setup is best. In reality, what we are all using, in our boating world, is a compromise with all these factors. You should do what is right for you and your situation and evaluate each suggestion offered up with regards to your particular situation. From my perspective, all the ideas offered up have some merit in light of how they were made.
Continued best wishes in your search. Would be most interested in hearing about the aluminum launch set up................ Yeah, a motorized rolling sled mounted on rails which pivots flat to the ground when raised to the top under a protective boat house, with a keg and seating for adult entertainment. Ooops, got a little carried away there.
 

Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
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Sorry, those Beachmaster only weight 10 Lbs both, not an issue living on back transom. Assume anything of good quality suited for salt water will cost more than plain ones.

-If you could place a alum, wooden, hard plastic ramp over the rocks seen in middle of plateau and beach without removing or flattening them out would be a goal from midfield.

-The idea is to transport the inflatable while sitting on a portable trailer, flat bed cart, whatever down and up the ramp.

-If counting with an electric or manual winch could be anchored at a proper front ramp distance for inflatable to dock on plateau next to ramp when winched up.

-If going for a Sib, bear in mind that front D'ring will tear glued fabric at bow, if used to restrict speed down the ramp and if pulling Sib up the ramp . Will need to tie a rope to both sides of small towing rings to form a V from where to hold Sib.

-Finding a proper bow support is key to work together with launching wheels down & up the ramp. You could fabricate a SS trolley slight higher than depleated launching wheels height. Anything Zodiac or Avon is extremely costly.

Happy Boating
 

lemondrop9344

Seaman
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
51
NickDK
Looking to makes some modifications to my trailer and came across this URL. Thought you might find some of the ideas reflected in the pictures helpful.
 

jen guiol

Recruit
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Jul 30, 2015
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I just bought a Sevlor Caravelle 3 man inflatable. Bought nice oars, out on lake in Oregon. Paddling for what seemed like hours to go just a few yards. I noticed it said it Sevlor manual that this model could have a trolling motor. So I purchased a Minn Kota Endura C2, 12 volt. And deep marine battery. Neither the Sevlor or Minn Kota Manuals tell you how to install, just tips on installing. The ring on the Sevlor, just one on bottom and one on top, are so small, and I cannot figure out how to install. The trolling motor pole is too wide of circumference and the Sevlor rings appear to be too small for any motor. I am sure I am missing something. Any help out there? Retired couple just want to get out on lake and explore.
 

Sea Rider

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Sep 20, 2008
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12,345
Welcome to Iboats,

Jen, impossible to tell what you're trying to accomplish. Post pics of Sevylor engine mount and trolling engine.

Happy Boating
 
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