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  • Have been using that same extension on mine. Solo riding I have to put my body further forward for better weight distribution. I ground down the piece where the lock knob is and use a hose clamp to hold it in place.
    Saturn SD365 Suzuki 20 EFI


    • Luckily don't have to move any weight further to plane fast, can even ride with 2 sitting aft seat and combo will jump on plane near instantly, that's due to having dialed a Tip Top OB/transom match along a excellent prop pitch maximization. These 2 issues will make a day/night boating difference running a very under powered OB.

      To ground down means you have filled both protruding plastic pieces that holds locking mechnisms in place to be flat even as rear part, right ?

      Happy Boating
      Last edited by Sea Rider; September 10th, 2017, 02:20 PM.
      Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers


      • Yes ground them flat where the tightner knob was. The Suzukis tiller is bigger around than most. Buy the time I get it squeezed on the the tightner hole won't line up anyway.
        Saturn SD365 Suzuki 20 EFI


        • My last Tiny Tach installed on tiller next to grip had its Waterloo Time long ago. A tach is must have item now that the tiller has been extended and cut to fit my boating requirements & comfort. I'm a huge fan of Hardline hour/tachs, are easy to install, can cut wire excess once bolted to tiller and wrapped around spark plug cable.

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          Hardline tachs are just splash proof, to make them waterproof just add 2 square pieces of tape at lower side of display, now can rinse the OB & tiller without water intrusion on tach.

          Installed the tiller extender and guess what, when extended fully down sat flat on top of cushioned seat, clearance between hand and seat was 0. There was too much hand & seat friction going on...

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          A simple solution was to glue 2 mm hard plastic shims (*) at rear tiller arm, right on the angle that rests against swivel bracket when tiller is fully down.

          Incredible how 2 mm shims can rise 1.5" front tiller grip, now hand clearance is excellent and very comfy to tiller drive.

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          Happy Boating
          Last edited by Sea Rider; September 15th, 2017, 07:03 AM.
          Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers


          • Before OB undergoes a exhaustive 800 hour full maintenance wanted to post the relationship found between combo weight, HP and prop pitch.

            Max passengers : 2 souls
            Rib/passenger weight
            1 Up : 435 Kg
            2 Up : 500 Kg
            2 Strokes 18 HP/300 CC
            Max Wot Range : 5800 rpm
            Water cond : slightly choppy.

            1 Up & 9 pitch factory delivered prop : 5600 wot rpm.

            1 Up & 8 pitch prop without angle modification : 6300 rpm, + 500 more than max stated.

            With 8 pitch prop & modified 90į transom angle.

            1 Up : 6,160 wot rpm (excellent hole shot) with 1 or 2 up.
            2 Up : 6,040 wot rpm (souls sitting aft on rear console seat, less hull drag)

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            2 Up : 5,920 wot rpm (souls sitting front of each other)

            OB is still over revving with 2 up, with 3 up should dial ideal 5800 wot rpm but that won't happen as like boating relatively light with spacious deck. After full maintenance finishes will test with a OEM alum 3 blade 8.5 pitch prop and see which rpm dials ? Definitely way less...

            Happy Boating
            Last edited by Sea Rider; September 19th, 2017, 05:05 PM.
            Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers


            • 800 Hour Preventive Maintenance.-

              Taking advantage that lower leg and powerhead were down decided to strip middle section, itís a matter of removing shift rod and 4 bolts that secures it to swivel bracket. Removed upper and lower steering shaftís bushings, wiped old grease, lubed with fresh grease and assembled back lower leg. Lower gasket cane out in one piece due to sitting powerhead on top of a well greased gasket done on previous restoration.

              Lower powerhead was found very clean due to periodic CRC decarbon spray application through carb, all water paths were found clean, a long water flush with fresh water after salt water use accounts for this.

              Thermostat was removed and polished along a new gasket lightly greased and bolted back.

              Head gasket & exhaust cover bolts were removed individually, cleaned, lightly greased, put back and torqued to specs. This will assure fast removal next time and forget all about unwanted thread seizures due to salt formations around internal head gasket's bolt bodies. New head gasket didnít made it on time for the 800 hour full maintenance, so current one is sill good to go for next 100 hours.

              Impeller housing was removed, liner was well polished to smooth finger tip perfection. This is the original impeller that came with OB, looks mint. Water pressure is outstanding, impeller keeps peeing for 15 seconds after OB has come to a stop.

              Changed gear oil, now with Amalie 80-90 High Viscosity grade, a new alum 3 blade 8.5 pitch will power combo, replaces a 8 pitch prop.

              All grounds and electrical components terminals were polished to shinny condition, this assures that all electrical components will do their homework right, donít fail any time soon and last long. Two new NGK spark plugs well gaped were added.

              Lower leg anodes & trim tab were polished to perfection, were extremely salted and pitted.

              Powerhead was flushed for 15 min with high water pressure with hose through upper flushing port, should get rid of any salt formation building up inside.

              A Dremel 700 rotary tool along my fab 5 allies helped removing gaskets leftovers, polishing & shinning with toothpaste different metal parts to new condition. Total time invested : 14 hours. Cost $ 10.00 and some cold ones...

              Happy Boating
              Last edited by Sea Rider; September 25th, 2017, 01:06 PM.
              Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers


              • Sea Rider......"Impeller housing was removed, liner was well polished to smooth finger tip perfection. This is the original impeller that came with OB, looks mint. Water pressure is outstanding, impeller keeps peeing for 15 seconds after OB has come to a stop."

                Boys up here telling me to replace every three years due to dry out. Do yours last longer due to have access to water year round and or keeping out of sand the trick?
                Last edited by Pack Rat; September 26th, 2017, 07:03 AM.


                • Pack Rat,

                  Pics appears and disappears, don't know why, did you happen to check the 800 hour impeller pic condition ?

                  To understand :

                  -Not all impeller brands last that long (Tohatsu outlast all)

                  -Not all impeller brands use same materials when manufacturing their impellers, some use rubber which is stiffer, other use elastomers, way more flexible and long lasting than rubber, Also deforms way less when sitting for long time periods with compressed vanes inside liners. Will fully expand vanes when taken out of liner, rubber won't, that's a plus.

                  -Impeller duration will depend entirely where you go boating, say clean fresh/salt water, fresh/salt water with too much sand, dust, whatever suspended, clean/muddy rivers. The latter besides shortening the impeller life will inevitably ruin the impeller liner, for those situations there are SS liners that last way longer than the standard ones.

                  Now you have a better vision about what's going on with impellers and their life span. It's up to each one if going for a full water pump change, just the impeller or even a new impeller with polished liner..

                  Happy Boating
                  Last edited by Sea Rider; December 1st, 2017, 04:25 PM.
                  Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers


                  • 8.5 Pitch Prop / Hardline Hour/Tach Updates.-

                    Same Fixed 500 KG.
                    1 Up ; 5950 Wot revs : + 150 rpm over max range.
                    2 Up : 5850 Wot revs : + 50 rpm over max range.

                    Faster hole shot has decreased more than a bit as achieved with a 8 pitch, although gained slight more top end speed.

                    Screams much less at full throttle and fuel economy has increased more than before.
                    Combo cruises nicely while maintaining full plane at 4700 rpm.

                    Impossible to ask for more, runs already at its max. Luckily bought an extra 8.5 prop for just in case unexpected issues. My quest for top boating perfection running a very underpowered OB to achieve its full wot range as usually loaded has ended successfully...

                    Notes to consider.-

                    OB's factory delivered with usually medium pitch props should be propped right soon after break end period has ended, same applies to second hand OB's as won't know if previous owner prop it right for his application which probably does not match yours.

                    Although it's recommended that OB revs inside min to max wot rpm range, ideal is to rev as currently loaded between middle to max wot rpm range. At min OB is being lugged, which is bad.

                    We all know that if any OB is propped right to achieve max wot rpm range, boat will achieve excellent hole shot sacrifying slight top end speed. On the contrary if middle wot rpm is dialed, hole shot will be decreased with slight more top speed increase. Which mode is preferred ? it's entirely up to each boater.

                    Before going for a prop maximization to get all the ponies out of any OB fast must consider being 101% healthy, sitting at the sweet OB/Transom height well trimmed and with weight evenly distributed on deck. Although 3-5 % over revving over max wot is allowed to plane combo faster, don't play with prop pitches without a induction tach if wanting as the Brits say, Long live the OB

                    Happy Boating
                    Last edited by Sea Rider; November 6th, 2017, 12:48 PM.
                    Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers


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                      Throughout my extensive boatingl life have only been left stranded at sea 4 times, 3 times by impeller overheat due to lower water intakes blockage while running full wot on kelpy sea cond and recently last Sunday. Scenario :

                      While running full wot OB came to a sudden stop as if with fuel starvation, bah, probably tank’s air valve closed or fuel connectors came off during operation. Wrong, all 3 working as they should.

                      My excellent taken care horse usually starts at first rope pull, so after 5 pulls dropped the towel, as OB won’t be revving any time soon was useless insisting on a frustrating restart tries. Being very near shore, headed to the marina, lifted the combo out of water straight onto its trailer. If not a mechanical issue, then it’s an electrical related problem, time for electrical troubleshooting which had very little experience. As stock all 4 electrical parts for OB to fire and run, was only a matter of swapping individual components to find the culprit fast, well that was what I erroneously thought

                      Swapped new kill cord switch, 0 avail, followed an Ignition Coil with O avail, next was a CDI swap, again 0 avail, deduction indicated that the culprit must be found under flywheel. Measured exciter’s resistance, a new one or one in excellent working order should read anywhere 130 to 195 Ohms.

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                      Current one had 0, assumed had shot internal winding. Removed flywheel and both exciter and alternator coils along harness and guess what, found a terrible shorting inside the circular clamp that protrudes out of plate which holds and secures plastic sleeve along wires to plate. This issue will show over time of constant flexing heated hardened cables when throttling extensively during boating time.

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                      Cleaned plate and flywheel’s magnets, the 18 HP has 4 huge ones, sends min 100 DVA volts to CDI. Installed a new Exciter Coil, both cables have been conveniently wrapped with 3M electrical tape to form a false sleeve. Have removed Alternator Coil from plate, it’s useless to count with one if you don’t use or plan using a battery on board to power gadgets

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                      Replaced back old parts previously taken out except new Exciter Coil, why put new parts if oldies are doing their respectively homework spot on and strong. Shot Exciter Coil was found unaltered has 167 Ohms resistance within specs, a matter or rebuilding both cables to their original length, insert a plastic sleeve over cables and save it as a refurbished spare.

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                      Installed a spark tester, the one with the translucent bulb, right in middle of spark plug boot and spark tip. IC output is so strong that lighted a small dark room at first pull when testing both plugs sparks individually. So it’s no wonder for ignition coils to produce such high 20-30 K volts low amps outputs.

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                      With spark plugs removed, took advantage to measure cylinder compression with a new meter, with cold OB and 5 vigorous pulls each read 120 PSI on upper cylinder and 118 PSI on lower one. Incredible that with 820 metered run hours maintains such an even and high compression, definitely carbon tune up sprayed periodically through carb, clean water paths to cool down OB right along well gapped spark plugs changed periodically each 100 worked hours , accounts for this.

                      Connected fuel connectors, primed bulb firm, hooked flush muffs, opened water faucet and Bingo, started first pull, OB runs much smoother and stronger than before, seems has been losing electricity under flywheel for quite a time. Tomorrow is open sea water trail, have plain confidence in the work done that all lights will be green and good to go…

                      Bottomline, if you don’t stock shelf electrical parts to swap and find culprit right on would recommend to acquire an analog or digital multimeter with DVA Volt reading capabilities to efficiently troubleshoot exciter, ignition coils and CDI voltage outputs which won’t read accurate while using a non DVA meter. Meter will pay for itself in the first electrical troubleshooting savings by not paying three shaded mechanics, outboard shops or marinas by the hour. It’s productive money wisely invested..

                      Happy Boating

                      Sea Rider 320, 380 Sibs, 450 Rib, 2 Strokes Tohatsu 5,18 & 30 HP Proud Smokers