Seam repair on my Mercury 430

Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
72
Hey all,

Been a while. It has been a very busy summer, so much so, I wasn't able to take the boat from the side of the house at all. Anyhow. Tuesday I loaded out with dive gear etc, wife (the flag follower) and h2o.

Just as I was about to hook up the trailer I looked down to find the bow tubes and bottom had split dead center about 8 inches port and starboard. Right on the seam.

Now the Mgr. at West (are we expensive) Marine stated no problem that MEK and a 2 part adhesive will do the trick.

Thoughts, comments? Can it be done?

Thank you.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Re: Seam repair on my Mercury 430

Is the boat still in warranty ? If not, place seam pictures to have a look. Can be done by anyone who has experience repairing inflatables.

Happy Boating
 

TOHATSU GURU

Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
6,164
Re: Seam repair on my Mercury 430

It's not difficult, but it takes a skill set that goes beyond the instructions. Humidity, temperature and timing are everything.
 
Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
72
Re: Seam repair on my Mercury 430

Time I have.

To add to my problem. I just deflated the forward chamber and keel. Turns out about 3 feet (1.5 or so either direction off the bow are separated).

Great.
 

TOHATSU GURU

Admiral
Joined
Jul 22, 2004
Messages
6,164
Re: Seam repair on my Mercury 430

It's more about the timing with the glue setting up and when to stick it.
 

nobrainsd

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
230
Re: Seam repair on my Mercury 430

Repairing a floor seam is not easy, but with the proper prep and environment a very strong bond results. You must remove all old glue. New glue will not stick to old glue. I bought my boat with poor repairs in place. Removing the ridiculous thick glue layers was a pain. I used abrasive wheels from Dremel to remove the glue and avoid damaging the underlying PVC coating.

If a section of your floor is separating there is probably more to go. All of my floor seam did not come apart. But I did pull apart any part of the floor seam that would separate without damaging the PVC coating on the fabric. Very dishearteneing to expand the opened seams, but you should do this for a reliable repair.

Larger sections were glued in place with the boat flipped. Smaller sections can be done in place from below. I used thread and weights to hold my seams open when working from below.

You will find that the glue in the cracks at the end of a seam you are repairing will not dry out at the same rate as the rest of the repair. It can be hard to have a good active glue across the repair area and into the cracks. I often apply pressure in these spots to hold the bond together until the glue cures. The tackiness of the rest of the open area holds the repair together, but those little end crevices need some help. The glue will cure and the repairs do hold well. Not an issues for gluing accesories or patches, but I've included a pic with a painters extension pressing on the back edge of a speed tube repair. Has never come loose.

The environmental conditions have to be right. The two part glue is hygroscopic and the bond strength deteriorates with moisture. I have included a link to the real method of using two part glues. If any part of these directions sounds too complicated you should get a professional to do this. The MEK (not acetone) wipes are absolutely necessary, the multiple layers of glue and the drying times are key and the time allowed for cure is not to be foreshortened! Do not guess at the humidity. Do not go by how it feels out or what the weatherman says. I bought a cheap hygrometer for $12. It is a good investment. Don't work if it is too hot or cold either. Those guidelines in the instructions should be adhered to.

I've reglued much of my zodiac including the transom. None of my reglued seams has failed. Proper prep, positioning your work so all repairs are easy clean untensioned layers, watching the humidity and fresh glue make it work.

floorseam.jpg


floorglued.jpg


The two patches on the floor seam in the background do not hold the seam in place, they repair damage to the tube by the PO when he prepped for the repairs on that section. Be careful removing old glue . Don't make things worse!
glue1.jpg


Removing glue from the front edge of a speed tube.
glueremoval.jpg


abrasivewheel.jpg


Pressure on the back edge of the spped tube repair. Glue was not tacky enough in the crack to hold the layers without help.
pressure.jpg


How professionals use two part glue.
http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/INFO/INFOGLUE.html

I prefer Sta Bond two part PVC glue and I get it fresh from NRS. Whatever you do make sure you mix properly.
 

nobrainsd

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
230
Re: Seam repair on my Mercury 430

My undertsanding is that most mercury 430's are PVC and mercury is now offering a hypalon version of the 430. Always good to know what your boat is made of!

If the boat in question is hypalon then follow the correct instructions found here: http://www.shipstore.com/SS/HTML/INFO/INFOHYPNEO.html
Don't substitute MEK for Tolulene when doing the prep. Always use the proper solvent for strong bonds.
 

Sea Rider

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 20, 2008
Messages
12,345
Re: Seam repair on my Mercury 430

It's not a time matter, it's a skill matter, if you haven't repaired a boat before, it's hard work as stated, will add, have proper tools to flat out air bubles between fabrics while gluing. Ask for a repair quote from a reputed boat shop, probably an "ouch" quote and then decide.

Happy Boating
 
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