boat inspection help.

[m50volvo240]

I have wanted a boat for as long as I can remember but it has never been a possibility. A friend of my dad's has his boat being kept at his place and I see it all the time and I'm considering getting it as I know it can be had for what seems cheap.

The boat is basically exactly what I want. The style and era I like. 93 four winns 180 freedom with a 140 hp outboard.

My concern is all I hear about is history or maintenance and care is what matters for older boats. I do know that this boat has spent some time not being covered properly and the interior is in rough shape. The trailer is good and the exterior of the boat seems good.

I have checked many threads and haven't seemed to really be able to figure out how to really inspect the transom, stringers, etc so I need a bit of guidance. I would love to save this boat if I can get it cheap enough. Can't really find much on this particular boat.

I look forward to your help, I'm mechanically inclined but boats are new to me.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Have you looked at this thread? (it's permanently posted at the top of this forum):

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/gene...eeding-help-buying-a-boat-a-buyer-s-checklist

 

[m50volvo240]

Yes, thanks for the response. There doesn't seem to be anything regarding transom specifically.

That inspection seems to be for someone who wants to be on the water next weekend, I'm ok with a project as I know this boat needs atleast some work. The more specific I can be the cheaper I can get the boat.

Was also hoping some one here had experience with these boats. I know this is a boat that most would walk away from, but I see a lot of potential and want to save it

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: the transom, I'd look very closely at any place where there is a through-hull fitting or a screw into the transom.

If anything is bolted/screwed into or thru the transom, are the bolts or screws tight and sealed? If a bolt or screw turns and cannot be tightened, that's a sign of a possible rotted wood core. If any cables or wires penetrate the hull at the transom, are those sealed well? Some people will advocate standing on the drive to see if the hull flexes around the keyhole. You also can tap the hull from the outside with a rubber mallet, and if you get widely different sounds, that may signify trouble. (My experience with a rotten transom was that the mallet test didn't reveal trouble.) Look for stained streaks beneath any fittings or thru-hull penetrations; check those areas very carefully.

If you can see the transom core from the inside of the boat, look at those same spots, and if possible, jab the wood with a long screwdriver. Soft is bad, obviously. Check as low on the transom as you can, giving special attention to the area around the bilge drain. In many cases, the inside area around the transom is carpeted and/or covered with panels, which limit access to the transom core itself. If you can remove those, you can get a better look at what's back there, but removal often isn't practical because of wires, hoses, cables, etc. that run around the back of the boat.

 

[smokeonthewater]

It doesn't have a keyhole... It's an outboard..... Tilt the motor up.... Bounce your body weight on the lower unit while another person watches closely from the side for transom flex.....

Start of easy so you don't rip the rotten transom out of someone else's boat..... Bounce harder and harder till you have you full weight (assuming you are under about 200 lbs) working it... The transom should not flex at all..... Ok a dial indicator would measure thousandths of an inch but it should not move visibly.

You mentioned getting it cheap and not walking away..... Common mistake... Lots of people think they can save money by rebuilding a rotten boat.... It's NOT gonna happen.... If it's rotten it's a motor, a trailer, and whatever else you can rob off of it....
If it's solid and just looks bad then by all means go for it but if it's rotten and you can't afford a solid one decrease your appetite and shop for something smaller and less fancy.... IE 12-14' with a 10-15 hp outboard... Those can be bought cheap and they don't have hidden rot problems.

 

[m50volvo240]

Thanks for the response. I have been through your threads a lot the last few weeks and enjoy checking out what you have done.

I do understand there is a lot of cost in saving the boat, my mention of cost was not thinking I could get the boat cheap and just go enjoy it; I do understand that is not how boats work. Get the boat cheap and then put time and money into saving it. (expensive boat in the long run but something I know is good) I have done lots of building and modifying with cars in the past and wouldn't mind a project to get me on the water next summer.

Always wanted a boat, but its not something I will just jump into without some understanding. I don't see myself buying anything else used because I still feel like it can be a hit or miss. I love the older style low bowriders like this and don't see many around. The outboard really makes me more interested in this boat because otherwise I believe it would have the discontinued OMC drive I/O and would be a definite walk away.

I know the boat was in the water a few times last year, but that doesn't prove that things aren't rotten.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed em.

Never know.. It COULD be solid but the odds are against it...

If it needs stringers n transom the cost of materials alone will be more than what you could buy a better boat for.

Just make sure you know what you're getting.... If you can buy it for the value of the trailer, you'll have a free motor and just need to find a solid hull like what I found in my V20.....

Just get i the habit of searching craigslist 3-4 times a day in every city you would be willing to drive to for a smokin deal..... It's not like it's a sick ess that takes over your whole life or anything..... :-/

 

[H20Rat]

I have done lots of building and modifying with cars in the past and wouldn't mind a project to get me on the water next summer.

A weekend getting greasy in the garage is the best therapy money can buy! Lost count of the number of car projects I've done over the years, I'm always doing something. Boat projects on the other hand... Fiberglass work could be used as a form of torture for non-geneva convention countries! There really is almost zero overlap between working on a car and working on a boat.

I HIGHLY suggest you keep looking. If it sat uncovered even a year, and the interior is in rough shape, it is highly likely the transom and stringers are bad. If the floor is bad, 95% of the time everything below it is also.

 

[redneck joe]

use this for searching CL if you go that route.