Adding a pulpit

viper1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2002
Messages
283
Well started planning my pulpit. Seem they all require tied off at anchor. But I'm wary of using regular cleats. Plus hoping to find a way to avoid going up and doing it. I use to have a gripper of sorts where the anchor could pass only one way. Until you pulled a rope to open the fingers. Thinking if i could add one between the winch and bow guide it might work. I'm using 1/2" Rode. Any one that knows what i mean and can help?
I also don't like paying the price for a medium lay rode just to kink it in a cleat. Cant see how that would be good.
 

shrew

Lieutenant
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
1,309
A Pulpit is not required to "tie off" at anchor. The pulpit is for storing the anchor while not at anchored. It is a convenient means to deploy the anchor (since that is where it is being stored). Boat with all chain rode use a chain hook and snubbers and cleat tie the snubbers to the Stbd and Port bow cleats. Most bow pulpits also have a center bow cleat if you run anchor rode over the roller as well.

I'm not at all clear what your concern is with cleats. I'm also not clear on what you are referring too as 'medium lay' line or how it kinks in a cleat. Anchor line would typically be Nylon or some other Class I rope (stretchable). It can be 3 strand, 8strand plait, or double braided. Plait or double braid flakes in less space so can fit better in an anchor locker. they are both easier on the hands to work with than 3 strand which can get stiff over time.

This stuff is fairly tried and true and there isn't much point in trying to reinvent the wheel.
 

viper1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2002
Messages
283
I realize what a pulpit is for. I am installing a windlass on it to deploy and retrieve an anchor. As far as a medium lay, its a required rope for most Windlass to operate right. It will be a 3 strand braid or a 8 strand Plait. And my concerns is with keeping the rope straight as possible to keep retrieve as good as possible. Thus my thoughts of running the Rode threw some sort of cam cleat or gripper cleat. Instead of kinking the rope from tieing off in a conventional cleat. And not trying to invent the Wheel. Just wanting an answer from some who do know and have used a windlass before. If It was just a regular anchoring I do know. But a windlass requires the weight be removed from the rode so as not pull on the windlass. Thus the cam cleat. Lots of them out there. But does any one know of one with a rope release or even electric release?
 

shrew

Lieutenant
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
1,309
Well started planning my pulpit. Seem they all require tied off at anchor.

I realize what a pulpit is for.

I believe that you are aware of what they are for. However when statements like this are made you are indicating otherwise.

Yes, you should offload the tension from the windlass. Tying to a cleat is how it is done. I wouldn't expect cleating the line to then later cause an issue passing the line through the gypsy. If you are concerned about it, use 8 strand plaited line, not 3 strand twisted. I anchor with folks who use 3 strand twisted and cleat tie their anchor lines and never have issues retrieving the line, even after siting on anchor for 7-8 consecutive days holding a raft of 5 boats with a total gross weight of over 100,000lbs. These boats are approx. 20,000-25,000 lb boats and have never seen the issue you are concerned about.
 

viper1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2002
Messages
283
Well I really don't know if it will or will not be an issue. But the windlass i will use isn't the same as the big boys. But the real problem is this is on a starcraft Islander hard top. And the fact Id like to find a way of not going up front to tie it off. On a calm day it don't amount to much. But in rough seas its a different story.The hatch is to small for me to access the bow.
My question was about using a cam cleat. I use to have one a rope ran through. And to release I simply pulled a small but strong string. Maybe if I could find some thing like that or if i could find one to release by electric. If so, I good add it between the winch and anchor, running the rope through it.
Maybe im asking too much or they dont make them. But looking just in case. The rope is 1/2"
 

Thalasso

Commander
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
2,876
What kind/type of windless are you installing?
Your going to need a storage locker for the rode to lie in. How do you propose to get the pulpit over the molded piece on the bow so it sets flat? The reason i ask is i used to have one. You must be pretty big because the hatch is made for an escape route in case of an emergency. Your going to have to beef up that deck pretty well. The aluminum isn't all that thick.
You might want to think about using a anchor ball when it's rough. All you have to do to retrieve is run up on the ball.
Will be a lot cheaper
How To Use An Anchor Retrieval System | Fisherman's Ideal ...
fishsaltwatertackle.com/how-to-use-an-anchor-retrieval-system/


https://youtu.be/nrbYe1rHcV0
 
Last edited:

viper1

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2002
Messages
283
Well actually the hatch is only 12" wide x 16 inches. It would take an awful small shouldered person to fit threw that. As far as the deck It is pretty thick. Not just aluminum. And as for the ball retrieval we have been using it for years. Oh and its possible to use both too if your not aware. Im using a breeze windlass. And with a 2" thick Pulpit fastened through the pulpit, the deck and a 1/2 " aluminum back up plate the bow deck should be a lot stronger. Also windlasses and winches arent for dragging your boat as many seem to think. You motor up to the anchor and basically just reel it in. Or you can have a loop and ball attached and drive past the ball. When anchor raises you simply drag it across the water with the winch. Like I said, I'm disabled and so is most the guts who go with me in one way or another. And most are not up to dragging in an anchor over and over while perch fishing.
 
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