gas tank removal

[kevincave]

i have searched and read a few articles. because of the danger of this i would like to be sure. tank is aluminum. i am replacing it. i understand the safest method is to drain the gas and fill the tank with water before cutting the wood floor? i will not be cutting the tank..

 

[alldodge]

i have searched and read a few articles. because of the danger of this i would like to be sure. tank is aluminum. i am replacing it. i understand the safest method is to drain the gas and fill the tank with water before cutting the wood floor? i will not be cutting the tank..

Drain and seal up (duct tape, rubber, etc) all openings. Once all openings are sealed you can cut the tank out. You can add water if you like but gas floats and fumes will still be there. So long as the tank is closed up and fumes are not getting out of the tank there should not be an issue. Just removed my tank by this method. I was not cutting through any metallic surface which could produce sparks. Just my opinion and you should do it by the means which best suits your situation.

 

[kevincave]

i have gas on the floor under the tank and possibly in the foam around it.

 

[alldodge]

i have gas on the floor under the tank and possibly in the foam around it.

That is a lot more of an issue. In that case, I would do the tank the same way, and put a fan blowing air all over the area to keep fumes down. Need to figure out a way to dry it out before you cut the top deck. If unfeasible, drill a hole enough to get a hand saw in, this would be ruff going.

I wouldn't use a circle saw because of the heat generated by the blade. Maybe use a oscillating tool which you can go slow and easy. Putting water into the foam could help but soaking in would be an issue.

As before just my opinion you need to see what will work safest for you

 

[Alumarine]

If possible try and flush the area with lots and lots of water to remove as much of the leaked fuel as you can.
Also, try and do it outside.

 

[airshot]

As suggested I would think keeping a fan blowing the vapors away should be fine, it does take a concentration of fumes for it to ignite so if no concentration no ignition. Of course only you can be the judge of just how strong the fumes are but I have done this before and with real good ventilation, I had no issues nor was I worried about an ignition.

 

[Chris1956]

I would think a sawzall with a long blade, would be safer than a Skilsaw, since the sparks can be further away from the work surface. If you have access to an air-powered saw, that would be safest.

 

[UncleWillie]

Plenty of ventilation is the rule of the day.
The fumes have to be pretty strong before they will ignite.
No matter what you are cutting, if you use any common electrically powered tool, it is going to have brushes that generate sparks internal to the motor.
Did I mention that plenty of ventilation is highly recommended?

 

[JoLin]

Just a thought, but I think that metal shears might be safer than any spinning/sawing action. Honestly, not sure I'd try this myself, but my first thought is to use a shop vac set to 'exhaust' to blow air into the tank via the fill hose (and out the vent), then use something like this to peel the tank open...

http://www.harborfreight.com/inline-...ars-98833.html

A tip I saw on a cruiser's forum is to get dry ice into the tank as it's frozen carbon dioxide which would tend to nullify the effect of any sparks

 

[gm280]

I would flood the area with plenty of water and use air/pneumatic cutters to stop any possibility of ignition. However, if I could smell gas fumes, I'd wait until the water carried out the gas before even trying. Once you couldn't smell any fumes, then start the removal procedures. The water flooded area can be addressed after the removal is complete. Safety has to be your number one concern...period! What good is the boat IF you are charred from head to toe... :attention:

 

[smokeonthewater]

He isn't cutting the tank, he's cutting the WOOD floor....


THE answer here is to use a hand saw... there is no way to be sure the area below the floor is free from gas and fumes until AFTER it is opened up.

get a good handsaw, something like a drywall saw and go to town... a NEW blade is the key to doing this without wearing your arm out.... plastic mallet and chisel OR hand drill for starting hole if needed

 

[gm280]

smoke, I usually concur with your opinions, however, nobody knows what type screws or even nails were used to build the area around the tank section. We all know he isn't cutting into the actual tank and we also assume that he would not come into contact with any metal and produce any sparks, but I would lean towards safety first, second and third before taking my chance producing any sparks and igniting a trapped area of gas fumes... But that is just my opinion... There are ways to accomplish this and be totally safe! Your suggestions of using a hand saw could cuts down on that spark possibility as well...

 

[smokeonthewater]

we are in agreement... jolin suggested metal shears... just wanted to avoid any confusion....

 

[JoLin]

we are in agreement... jolin suggested metal shears... just wanted to avoid any confusion....

My error. Really missed the boat on that one. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[kevincave]

thanks for the replies, after reading another thread about a guy burned so bad it took him two weeks to die, i took it to the shop to let those who have done it before take over..

 

[kevincave]

here is how it went, tank finally installed. 97$ to cut the floor, $100 to boil the tank. $210 to weld a new bottom on, tank is like new. couldnt find any replacement more than 18 gallons to fit the existing opening. tank is 31 gallons. now time to reglass the floor..