Plz help w/ a few questions on a 1976 Omega Tri-Hull 18 ft. In/Outboard Fish/Ski Boat

[Capt. Willie]

Update: I installed the missing horizontal supports that run from the front of the Aft deck to the Transom, (see third pic above, for location). Alot of notching for steering rod, etc. and still needs a bit more work, also, I set-up the Port side for EZ removal of gas tank. (It seems Omega installed the tank by sliding it in from the side, and then installed the motor making it impossible to remove tank the same way without pulling the motor.) I tore out the back-to-back seats and seat boxes, (2 sets) but undecided on their replacements.

I still need to replace the vertical plywood, (both sides) seen in same pic just behind the battery, (a temp.battery hook-up location) that supports the front of the Aft deck...decided to watch some NFL, instead of going to Home Depot.

Also, added some plywood to remount the fuel pump, and I mucked out the Bilge box which was mostly wind-blown sand. I plan to built some king of 'battery box', or maybe add a hold-down bracket.

The bow eye needs work, but access is very limited there....any ideas?

I'll try to post more pics after more progress......

 

[rickryder]

Pics of the bow area looking from the helm....the back side of the bow eye. I see a spot to take some core samples of the stringers....in your bilge area....check them for rot....

 

[Capt. Willie]

Hey RR, this link has one fair pic of the 75 resto...same exact open bow config....maybe a better one further along....found one more on pg. 26, of same thread.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-goes-on/page6


.Bilge box need a bit more cleaning, but so far, the fiberglass looks very good here, no cracks. I was tapping all over inside of transom today w/ hammer, and sounds solid, but I will do stringer/Transom check soon, as you suggested....and hopefully pics tomorrow....

Edit to add.....what's this stuff, "fill the holes with 3M 5200..."

I assume the '3M' is the brand name, I don't know much about fiberglass and related products.

 

[jbcurt00]

3Ms 5200 is a super adhesive caulking suitable for below the waterline usage.

The hammer test isnt nearly as reliable as core sampling on the transom.

 

[Capt. Willie]

Thanks, and I figured it wasn't....I haven't gotten to ripping out the carpet on the deck....yet, and I wanted to check ALL stringers, etc. at once.

 

[rickryder]

So it looks like you should have access to the bow eye under the bow seat like most bowrider style boats

 

[Capt. Willie]

My mistake, it's pg. 21...too many beers while watching the game....see link. I could just barely reach the bow eye from the center access hole, and I'll probably have to cut an access hole, OR, do the full resto, and pull the cover off. (The bow eye is pulled out about a half an inch, it feels solid, but just a matter of time to failure.)

These guys, (in linked thread) did a GREAT job on their 75 Omega...I'm wishin they were my next door neighbors right now.

My 'finely-tuned' ESP tells me you guys want me to do the full-on thing....Besides the time/money aspect, my garage is way too small, it's a single-car, narrow, but long, and I got my little wood-working shop set-up in it now. IF I shove ALL to the back, I can just barely fit a compact car in it.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...1975-omega-restore-the-project-goes-on/page21

 

[rickryder]

I rebuilt my boat outside in the winter.... no garage here just a makeshift tent enclosure. Your ESP is correct! We explore the entire project,find what's bad and fix it correctly. The reason behind that is so we are SURE the boat is 100% seaworthy because we will be taking friends and family out on the boat and don't want a catastrophic failure while out on the water. Now it's YOUR boat and whatever you decide is YOUR decision so anything good or bad will be your call.....

 

[Capt. Willie]

Right, I agree....you want to be 100% sure before splashing. I had some other chores to do today, so no progress on her. I do have another (bigger) driveway, but letting a friend park his unregistered trailer there now. Except for the painting process, I could get by w/ just a covered area....simply not enough room where it's at right now.

I do have some 100% Silicone caulking, ('Waterproof') and wondering if it's OK to use it instead of the 3M 5200 ?

Also, I used screws to install the horizontal aft deck supports, (wood to wood only, the underside of aft deck just rests on the plywood) and due to flexing, I'm thinking I should have used glue, or fiberglassed them in??? (My imm. goal was to be able to stand on it, and to avoid any further damage as there are some small cracks on inner edges due mainly to supports missing.)


I noticed on that Omega 75 resto, he used a vertical post on front end of aft deck, (close to the motor) w/ some kind of 'saddle' base. And I finished reading that thread, and she turned out awesome!

 

[rickryder]

Home depot has small tubes of 5200 for around $7 It is what is recommended for marine applications..

Without photos I'm unsure of your deck questions... Pretty much all the plywood installed on the boat should be glassed in...at least in the structural aspect.

 

[Capt. Willie]

Right on, RR,

..I rigged up some decent horizontal supports for the aft deck, (without fiberglass) and added one more behind the gas tank, (port side).....finally got hoses, and filter, etc. hooked up and started the motor a few times today, took a bit of time for fuel to travel thru system, lots of pressure...but electric fuel pump was vibrating, working to hard??? and had a small fuel drip from the pump itself. (IF only I could keep my battery charged......

Made progress on wiring, and found out my ele. trim motor isn't working......

Haven't got to posting more pics....

 

[siberbro]

Capt Willie, you are right, this is a great place for advice and info. I am new to boat ownership also and following advice in the fiberglass boat restoration I am redoing a 1972 Sears 13.5 ft tri-hull bass boat. will post pics in fiberglass boat repair soon. good luck

 

[Capt. Willie]

Thanks, and good luck to you.

If I don't worry about cosmetics, I just have that one 2' long scrape, and a bad ding underneath, and some sm dings in sides of Hull for fiberglass repairs, and a sm crack in Bilge box (maybe superficial as it was applied thick there) but I do need to read up, etc on this.

Most spider-cracks are superficial, but most are worse near hand rail attachments, and 75 Omega Resto guys had added plywood, etc on underside of cover when they removed and restored, to strengthen this area for re-installation of rails.

Looks like the soft spot in deck is right above the 2' scrape, and I will inspect further.....have yet to open this up, might shop-vac. first as the dust/dirt is so thick in carpet..... (And charged 4 12V batteries today while multitasking.)

Possibly have found a stock working ele. trim motor....

FYI: The Impeller housing cover is installed w/ brass screws, and they say it's difficult to remove as screws can easily be broken.

 

[rickryder]

Good thing brass is soft and easily drilled and tapped out...if need be.

 

[Capt. Willie]

Hey RR, right again, but the impeller housing is Alum....just talked to a neighbor who used to own the same inline 6 cyl volvo, and he said after a few impeller replacements over the yrs, he eliminated the brass screws and went to a nut and bolt set up, by drilling existing holes on housing, and cover, for EZ replacement and enlarged hardware dia. a bit....the brass screws are maybe 3/32" or so.

Electrostatic reaction...or electrolytic....can't remember, can cause frozen screws, etc.

Luckily, I avoided repairing this....last on the list.

 

[jbcurt00]

Galvanic corrosion from 2 dis-similar metals exposed to water, salt water only makes it quicker and worse.

 

[Capt. Willie]

Right....My boat has only been used in fresh water, and this is partly why it's in fairly good shape, and has aged well.

 

[Capt. Willie]

Update: I scored on some free 3/4" ply wood from my down-the-street neighbor....I cut the seat benches and back-rest pcs. for the Open Bow today, started on the seat bases, and probably have enough to also do the motor cover, and re do the entire deck too.

After removing very front back-rests I can see where a previous owner had cut an access hole to service the bow eye....should be an easy fix now, and it's on the list.


For small wiring repair jobs, I recommend that 'Brush-On Ele.Tape' dries in 5 min....good for cracked insulation on older wires, etc.

 

[rickryder]

For cracked insulation on old wires I recommend changing them...if moisture gets into the wire at some point it can corrode internally and you wouldn't even know it....being stranded in the lake bay or ocean and having to call Sea Tow will cost 20x what a piece of wire does.... thats just me though....

 

[Capt. Willie]

You're right, of course....but for me, this means a total rewire :ballchain:....and I'll probably do this eventually.:yield:

I used it for just a quick fix, I was sealing up some bare wire spots where the insulation had cracked as I was worried about the fire hazard :flame:due to the small fuel leak.ainkiller: