Getting boat ready for slip storage.

[agallant80]

So just got myself a slip. Below is the list of things I am contemplating. Any input would be helpfull

1. Bottom paint: I think I need a barrier coat and a red and then black bottom paint coat. Is one brand better than another?
2. Outdrive paint: Do I need to do anything here? Should I paint it? If so is there a special paint
3. Mercathode: I don't have one, Should I order one and install it? I will be on a river feeding in to the coast of NC (Neuse river)
4. Flush kit, since I won't be able to put muffs on her
5. Under water holes: I have under water lights and a transduser screwed in to the transom via 5200. Should I lose them, epoxy and glass, reseal them or do anything?
6. Any other dock equipment other than lines?

 

[alldodge]

So just got myself a slip. Below is the list of things I am contemplating. Any input would be helpfull

1. Bottom paint: I think I need a barrier coat and a red and then black bottom paint coat. Is one brand better than another?

Barrier coat is first and foremost. Barrier coat keeps the water from penetrating the gel coat (3 coats minimum). Bottom paint is used to keep growth of the hull. Being in fresh water and being a planning hull your options are wire. I use Mircon CSC in shark white because it designed for a boat which will be on a trailer and goes back to working when it's wet again. Down side it is softer then others so it doesn't last as long (3 years). The good is a power washer can get it ready to accept new coats. Other paints will last longer but after years it will need to be removed and redone.

2. Outdrive paint: Do I need to do anything here? Should I paint it? If so is there a special paint

Your drive is painted, so no additional paint is needed at this time.

3. Mercathode: I don't have one, Should I order one and install it? I will be on a river feeding in to the coast of NC (Neuse river)

Oh yes big time, It is simple enough to install but hard to fish the wire up from the bottom, of the gimbal housing to inside the boat with engine installed. It can be done, need small person with long arms.

4. Flush kit, since I won't be able to put muffs on her

Will not be able to use it, and won't do any good unless your going to be on a lift.

5. Under water holes: I have under water lights and a transduser screwed in to the transom via 5200. Should I lose them, epoxy and glass, reseal them or do anything?
6. Any other dock equipment other than lines?

After going through what I'm going through I would recommend. Removing them, drill holes larger, fill with Marine tech, redrill and install which ever ones you want to keep using 3M 4000

Make sure your Zincs on the drive are Zincs and not aluminum

 

[Natesms]

Is this a covered dock you can put a lift in? If so, go that route and skip steps 1 - 5.


The Dock equipment is going to vary based on marina rules. Lines, power cord and hoses (one for fresh water and I like the collapsible hoses for the wash down hose) are the basics.

I've found the "extras" vary based on location greatly. We built a small deck into our slip, have a sink with hot water heater, gas grill, table and chairs, and couple of dock lockers.

 

[tpenfield]

Since you will be sitting in fresh water most of the time . . .

Interlux Interprotect 2000 Barrier coat (2 or 3 coats)

I highly recommend ePaint EP-2000 antifouling eco-friendly paint

You can do Trilux 33 on the outdrive

Mercathode and fresh anodes, since it is a Bravo 3

the river is your flush kit

re-bed the underwater stuff if you think it needs it.

More dock lines and big fenders

shore power ?

 

[Chris1956]

Yes, use Trilux 33 on the outdrive. Two coats brushed on is vastly superior to spray. Anything else (AF clear spray, Alumashield) is crap.

I had a MerCathode system. With it, I went thru 2 sets of zinc anodes in salt water with a SS Prop, in a season and I was not connected to shore power. I never heard of that happening to anyone else on my lagoon. Obviously I suspect the MerCathode system of contributing.

Since you are in fresh water, I would try it without the MerCathode, and see how it goes. You can add it if necessary.

I like to use oversize docklines for chafe protection. I would recommend 1/2" or larger lines. In a slip you would normally have crossed spring lines on the stern in addition to bow lines.

 

[alldodge]

Yes, use Trilux 33 on the outdrive. Two coats brushed on is vastly superior to spray. Anything else (AF clear spray, Alumashield) is crap.

I had a MerCathode system. With it, I went thru 2 sets of zinc anodes in salt water with a SS Prop, in a season and I was not connected to shore power. I never heard of that happening to anyone else on my lagoon. Obviously I suspect the MerCathode system of contributing.

Since you are in fresh water, I would try it without the MerCathode, and see how it goes. You can add it if necessary.

I like to use oversize docklines for chafe protection. I would recommend 1/2" or larger lines. In a slip you would normally have crossed spring lines on the stern in addition to bow lines.

A Mercathode systems works when connected to shore power, if it is not connected the systems has no effect. If connected to shore power then a galvanic isolator is necessary. Sounds like you had stray current corrosion going on.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/articles/marine-corrosion.asp

 

[thumpar]

A Mercathode systems works when connected to shore power, if it is not connected the systems has no effect. If connected to shore power then a galvanic isolator is necessary. Sounds like you had stray current corrosion going on.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/articles/marine-corrosion.asp

I have a Mercathode on mine and it doesn't even have shore power. The drive looks new BTW.

 

[Slip Away]

Slip storage ? Usually when you slip a boat, it's actually started up and used to go out on the water, not just stored there.:lol: