Restoring an engine… paint question

acdc96

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Apr 23, 2013
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I'm restoring a 1942 Evinrude Sportsman back to factory condition. I've stripped all the exterior parts down to bare metal (wire Wheel, no chemicals), sanded down all the casting seams, and put a coat of rustoleum etching primer on all parts. I bought Rustoleum High Performace paint that's colored Alumnium. I've used this stuff before on my sterndrive but in flat black with great resulults and adhesion.
Now my question is should I put a coat of regular engine primer over the etching primer before the top coat goes on??
Also, I'm not painting anything on the power head exept for the flywheel. Don't want to screw anything up. But I did clean up the ignition system and rebuilt the carb.
 

JimS123

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A second primer is not needed.

Don't know for sure about the Rustoleum aluminum, but I suspect its a bit too shiny. Duplicolor Engine Enamel DE1650 Cast Coat Aluminum is a perfect match for the OEM "aluminum" paint. It requires no topcoat.

Best adhesion is obtained when you apply 2 prime coats and 2-3 top coats in a 3-4 hour period, each coat an hour apart. If your primer is too cured, you may have eventual peeling of the topcoat.

I have a '46 Sportsman - sweet little motors...
 

acdc96

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The etching primer says it takes 3 days to cure. So I just ended day one at 5:00pm.
I got the motor off of craigslist for $100 running and in great condition. I noticed that theirs no cooling tube that leads up to the engine for the water pump. Anyone know what's up with that?
 

Bob_VT

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I would use a dusting of zinc chromate primer before any paint.
 

Watermann

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I would recommend you shoot regular primer over the SE. The aluminum paint may be a problem, I believe the rusto stuff is "leafing" meaning the pigment lays on edge so it will rub off looking odd after being rubbed and come off on your hands.
 

JimS123

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Three days is "fully" cured. That may be "too" cured for a good bond to the topcoat.

If you want to use ZnCr that should be the first coat on the bare metal. No question that it is and always was the best primer for bare aluminum. 40 years ago that's ALL I used. Its availability now and known toxicity is why I don't use it any more. The AE primer from NAPA works almost as good.

If you are willing to spend the $ and want the absolute best paint for outboards, skip the local stores and try NYMarine. You won't be disappointed!
 

Sheppie

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Three days is "fully" cured. That may be "too" cured for a good bond to the topcoat.

If you want to use ZnCr that should be the first coat on the bare metal. No question that it is and always was the best primer for bare aluminum. 40 years ago that's ALL I used. Its availability now and known toxicity is why I don't use it any more. The AE primer from NAPA works almost as good.

If you are willing to spend the $ and want the absolute best paint for outboards, skip the local stores and try NYMarine. You won't be disappointed!

Forgive me to butt in all of a sudden but I just wanted to say that I totally approve of the above. I always tend to spend more bucks but get the best paint quality there is. I have never regretted. It's a money well spend and the quality pays of.
 

gm280

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When I rework anything that goes to the bare metal (aluminum) my very first coat is Zinc Chromate primer. And here's why. If you ever worked in the Air Force, you would see that they use ZC first on anything aluminum. And since we know they had mega-studies done to see what worked best, so I'll follow their procedures. So I start off with ZC, and then follow up with a real good high build totally sandable primer like epoxy or 2K primer. Then sand until you like it and go from there. Just make very sure that all your products are perfectly compatible with each other and enjoy the finished product... JMHO!
 

Watermann

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It' been 5 days so I'm thinking acdc needs to post a few pics of the project that I'm sure he's already finished spray bombing.
 

Redfred1

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Sep 23, 2013
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Hopefully he had better luck than I did. I went by the cap on the can.. It looks light grey; but It comes out looking like tin foil. Plus you could tell the difference in coats.{Same lot #}
 

acdc96

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Apr 23, 2013
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Sorry for the late post.... Put a coat of the duplicolor paint on and it did not adhere correctly.... So I had to wire wheel the whole thing down to bare metal. But put a coat of primer on last night and I'm putting the duplicolor on tonight. 2 light coats tonight. 1 coat tomorrow and one coat on Wednesday.

Here is some pictures I took last night and when I disassembled it and found the original color (1st photo in the middle the dull grey).

https://plus.google.com/app/basic/s...D5%2526soc-app%253D115%2526soc-platform%253D1

Note: I did not paint it on my boat just put them their.
 

JimS123

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It didn't adhere correctly because you waited too long between coats. Your current plan will make it just as bad.

Please re-read post #2. Or, what a concept, read the instructions on the back of the duplicolor can!

I recommended 1 hour, Dupicolor recommends minutes, yet you are waiting days...
 
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