1969 Evinrude Rogue II 210 (Take Two)

[Frederic Lynes]

Well, my first thread apparently went the way of the Dodo bird, much like the 1975 Invader Intruder I owned, when I first became a member of this forum a few years ago. Realizing that my patience does not rival my woodworking/fiberglassing skills, I donated the boat to charity and wrote it off on my taxes.

A bit over a week ago, I got a 1969 Evinrude Rogue II 210 from a kid who lives 15 minutes away from me. I called him to find out the condition of the boat; he informed me that the original owner (an old man) maintained meticulous care of the boat, while he owned it. When he passed away, the boat was given to the old man's friend/neighbor. He kept it in climate controlled storage for 20 years, before selling it to the kid from whom I bought it.

I traded a non-running Titan Industrial 8500w generator, a Sig Sauer SigPro 2340 pistol and $100 for the boat. I am amazed at the condition of this boat. I have seen 10 year-old boats that weren't in as good a condition as this one is. The floor is 100% solid, the carpet is completely original and almost new, all the electrical works, with the exception of the down tilt solenoid, and the OMC only has 163hrs on it. I have all of the manuals for it, including the Boating Log, which shows that the original owner had 90hrs on the boat, when he did an oil change.

It was missing the prop, which I found on eBay. I also bought a newer 16-hole transom seal ring plate, for when the time comes to replace the transom seal. The current transom seal is a 12-hole, which is no longer available.

I had to rewire the engine compartment, because the kid I bought it from used house wiring. I'm amazed that he didn't burn the boat to the ground. I also had to refurbish the blower motor/bilge pump because, when the kid did an oil change, he drained the oil into the bilge and it turned the dirt that was there into crud. The blower motor/bilge pump (it's one unit) works as it should now. I also took the fuel tank petcock apart, cleaned it and put it back together again....the kid was running an auxiliary plastic tank, because the petcock was frozen stuck.

I cleaned the seats, which are intact and have no rips and vacuumed the carpet. I also replaced a few light bulbs and now my biggest chore is to wash it, get a good rubbing compound, polish and wax, because the colors are a bit faded.

Here are the pics......again.

EDIT - Test edit and add photo

 

[GA_Boater]

test test

 

[GA_Boater]

Well, my first thread apparently went the way of the Dodo bird, much like the 1975 Invader Intruder I owned, when I first became a member of this forum a few years ago. Realizing that my patience does not rival my woodworking/fiberglassing skills, I donated the boat to charity and wrote it off on my taxes.

A bit over a week ago, I got a 1969 Evinrude Rogue II 210 from a kid who lives 15 minutes away from me. I called him to find out the condition of the boat; he informed me that the original owner (an old man) maintained meticulous care of the boat, while he owned it. When he passed away, the boat was given to the old man's friend/neighbor. He kept it in climate controlled storage for 20 years, before selling it to the kid from whom I bought it.

I traded a non-running Titan Industrial 8500w generator, a Sig Sauer SigPro 2340 pistol and $100 for the boat. I am amazed at the condition of this boat. I have seen 10 year-old boats that weren't in as good a condition as this one is. The floor is 100% solid, the carpet is completely original and almost new, all the electrical works, with the exception of the down tilt solenoid, and the OMC only has 163hrs on it. I have all of the manuals for it, including the Boating Log, which shows that the original owner had 90hrs on the boat, when he did an oil change.

It was missing the prop, which I found on eBay. I also bought a newer 16-hole transom seal ring plate, for when the time comes to replace the transom seal. The current transom seal is a 12-hole, which is no longer available.

I had to rewire the engine compartment, because the kid I bought it from used house wiring. I'm amazed that he didn't burn the boat to the ground. I also had to refurbish the blower motor/bilge pump because, when the kid did an oil change, he drained the oil into the bilge and it turned the dirt that was there into crud. The blower motor/bilge pump (it's one unit) works as it should now. I also took the fuel tank petcock apart, cleaned it and put it back together again....the kid was running an auxiliary plastic tank, because the petcock was frozen stuck.

I cleaned the seats, which are intact and have no rips and vacuumed the carpet. I also replaced a few light bulbs and now my biggest chore is to wash it, get a good rubbing compound, polish and wax, because the colors are a bit faded.

Here are the pics......again.

Test quote

 

[Frederic Lynes]

No Title

Don't tell me it's been fixed? Well shut the front door! Okay, here are some more pics.

 

[NYBo]

I remember the pix you posted in your earlier thread. The boat looks immaculate! However, I also remember that it has an electrically-shifted OMC stringer drive, which has a bad reputation. Many parts are unavailable.

 

[Frederic Lynes]

The electric shift gained a bad reputation, due to poor maintenance. I have the benefit of a boat, which has 163hrs on it, and I plan on being very anal-retentive with my maintenance. As with anything, maintenance is the key to keeping it going. I've already tested the shifter and it locks as it should. If the time ever comes where I am unable to find parts, if the outdrive breaks, I'll change over to an 800 or repower to Mercruiser.

 

[NYBo]

As with anything, maintenance is the key to keeping it going.

Bingo!

 

[southkogs]

They're fairly robust systems. A bit quirky in places perhaps, but you can keep 'em going for a while.

Beautiful boat. Enjoy!

 

[Frederic Lynes]

I inspected the outdrive today. The upper and lower unit oil is very clean, but I will still replace it before next season. The tilt unit, however, was a different story. I was a bit apprehensive, when I first saw the cover because there was a bunch of Permatex that had been slathered on. When I opened the fill plug......water came rushing out.

I took the four bolts off, took the cover off and more water came out. Good news is that this is a P.O. kid fix, like using house wiring in the engine compartment. Even better news is that the tilt unit gears are in good condition, so I'm guessing that this was a recent event. I saturated the unit with WD-40, to disperse the water and then blew it out.

The problem was that the kid had tried to scab a broken gasket together with the Permatex. I have plenty of gasket material, so I used my daughter's compass and made a new one....fit like a glove. I used Indian Head on the gasket and reassembled. I know there are some people out there who don't like Indian Head, but I've never had a problem with it, as long as it's properly used. I then stopped by the boat shop and got some Type C oil and filled up the tilt housing. I had ordered a new down tilt solenoid, which arrived yesterday, so I installed it, ran it up and down a few times and it's smooth as could be.

I ordered a new set of Grote 50502 tail/turn lights for my trailer. I also ordered a set of Arrow Safety Device 052-00-722 rear side marker lamps, as well as Signal Stat 57 reflectors in Amber and Red. These part #s are original to the trailer, and I want to keep it as it was, when it was new. They will be in this week.

Finally, I rewired the front of the trailer, because it looks like an angry beaver attacked it. Originally, it was a flat 5-pin setup, and then it was switched over to a 6-pin connector at some point, still using 5 wires. The kid from whom I bought it jury rigged it to a 4-pin, because he had taken the reverse solenoid out of the master cylinder. Since our F350 has the factory setup at the hitch for either 7-pin or 4-pin hookup, I decided it was easier to use the 7-pin connector and leave 2 pins unused, so I went to Wally World and bought a 7-pin connector and wired everything up nice and clean.

I did some research and found out that the Hydro-Act surge actuator and the 1965 Jeep CJ-5 share the same master cylinder. Both are made by Raybestos and have the same markings, and the one I found on eBay is $100 cheaper than the online trailer shops, so I bought one; it will be here this Friday.

Next on the list is a new set of 6:50/10 10-ply tires and tubes. Apparently, the only manufacturer of these is Duro...the HF219.

 

[Frederic Lynes]

I am absolutely exhausted. I redid the brakes on the boat trailer today. Keeping it in climate-controlled storage for 20 years was great for the boat, it was NOT good for the brake hoses....they were beyond swollen. As soon as I touched them, my fingers turned black. I had to have a new set made at Hose Power, because I couldn't find 3/16" male/female 33" and 3/16" female/female 24". I then used about six cans of Brake Kleen to blow out the hard lines; the congealed brake snot that came out was gross, but they're all clean now.

Next came the calipers. Evinrude really went all out, when they built this thing. They used Kelsey Hayes 800-H2 calipers...these were found on funny cars, back in the 60's and they are all aluminum. Tearing them down, cleaning them and putting them back together was simple. The rubber seals were perfectly intact. A quick pass of 80 grit on the discs and everything is back together. Now I'm just waiting on the master cylinder.

 

[Frederic Lynes]

The master cylinder came in today. While it is a genuine Raybestos, I am disappointed to report that it is Made in China. When I called Raybestos, I asked them if they had any products left that were made in the USA....a few calipers.....makes me sick. Oh well, it looks like a duck, hopefully it quacks like a duck. I installed it. I'll take it to the trailer shop tomorrow and have them bleed the master cylinder and brakes. I also got the replacement Grote tail lights. One of them has an internal ground issue, so the company is going to send me another free of charge.