Trim Tabs help me decide.

SigSaurP229

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Oct 1, 2008
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Here is the set up. 18' StarCraft Super Sport with a 1985 Yamaha Pro V 150. 13x21 pitch prop turns the boat to 5600 Rpms @ 54 MPH with three adults weighing in a 650 lbs. The boat porpoises badly, with three people in it, it is ok especially when I move one of them (275 lbs) to the front. With 1 person and gas it is almost uncontrollable.

I have moved the house battery and all moveable weight to the front, but I think that the addition of Tabs will help greatly.

I am considering the Bennett trim tabs they are pricey, but I have never heard a bad thing about them and as I have witnessed on this forum their customer service is top notch.

My two biggest factors at this moment drawing me away from Bennett tabs are cost, AND I really don't want to add more weight to the stern, which is where I am assuming that the pumps lines and hoses would have to go.


I am also considering SMART TABS. I like the price and I like the fact that weight is minimal, and that they are self adjusting mount and forget.

Are there any draw backs to the smart tabs?

If I go that route should I go with a 60 or 80 pound tab. My boat seems to be at the max upper limit for a 60# tab and on the lower limit for an 80# tab.


What say you guys.
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 18, 2009
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10,200
can't help much with the smart tabs; never had them.

Bennetts - yes the customer service is top notch like you I've watch it for about 10 years now plus tabman helped much with the current set up. Last two boats were 20+ years old with Bennett from factory and I never had an issue with them.


the pump is only probably 3 lbs so I wouldn't worry about weight but you could place it up front and just run the lines to the back. I'm assuming longer lines are not a problem - tabman will let you know. If you do get them, I would recommend adding the auto-up switch since its a trailer boat.
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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here is a reply form Tabman when I first started asking about them in 06.



Below you will find a little "Trim Tabs 101" that covers your question and a bunch more info on using Tabs, This should help you get the hang of using Tabs. Two important pieces of advice:

1. Experiment, each boat is deferent. The best way to learn how your boat best responds to Tabs is to “play with them”. Soon using them will become second nature.
2. Use them in short burst and let the boat settle down between corrections, this will help you avoid over trimming.
Bow steering can make the boat handle a little bit “squirrelly” and should really not happen except perhaps a little bit when holding the bow down into a really nasty chop (as you mention” but other then that it should be avoided since it indicates that the bow is trimmed too far down.

Just about any brand of Trim Tabs can be retro fitted with indicators. Take a look at the pump on the boat for the Tabs and let me know what it looks like and I can help identify the Tabs for you.


All Trim Tab manufactures will bend fins up or down, however ours and all the other manufactures I know of make “good straight” folds in the stainless, none as sloppy as you indicate.

Often times a builder will ask us to fold a fin down on the outside of a Tab we make for then to help prevent spray from coming out that side of the boat. But again they are made on hydraulic bending brake machines and are neat and straight folds.

As far as I am concerned the mark of quality in a Trim tab is how long it lasts on a boat. I can go point by point why our particular design is superior to our competitors, but simply put all of those design elements are aimed at making the product last!

Since I am biased towards my product I might suggest that if you post that question on the main board you will get some very good answers! But let me know if you want be to go “blow by blow”!

I hope this is helpful,

Tom

Getting and Staying Trimmed

All boats assume different fore to aft attitudes at different throttle settings and vary in sensitivity to lateral weight distribution.

A boat’s optimum running attitude is determined by the operator. While some people may define optimum running attitude as the highest possible speed for a given amount of engine RPMs, others desire the best possible fuel economy, yet others may be trimming the boat to get just the right mix of speed and wake (such as for waterskiing.)
Optimum running attitude is when the boat is running to the operator’s satisfaction for the given operating conditions. There are as many optimum running attitudes as there are boats and boat owners

A good way to determine a boats optimum running angle (see side bar Optimum Running Attitude) is to run the boat lightly loaded at full speed in calm water. During this test observe the boat’s bow in relation to the horizon. Most boats run at or near their optimum attitude under these conditions. This should give you a feel for the appearance of the wake and bow spray when running at an efficient attitude. Note that not all boats will achieve their optimum running attitude under these conditions. Some boats will benefit from extra lift even when running at their maximum throttle settings. If you feel the boat will benefit from added bow down trim when running at speed start with the trim tabs fully up and deflect the trim tabs in short bursts. Be alert to changes in the boats handling, as you bring the bow down. Observe any changes in RPMs and/or speed. Adjust power trim if applicable.

Indications of Running Untrimmed
When a boat is running untrimmed the bow spray will exit the sides of the boat far aft. The stern wave (wake) is high and curling like a breaker on the beach. The rooster tail is high and close to the stern. The engine is laboring and the ride tends to be less smooth.

Indications of Running Trimmed
The bow spray moves forward and is flung not as far from the boat. The wake diminishes in height, as the rooster tail flattens out and moves away from the boat. The engine is operating under less load as evidenced by the tachometer and speed as well as sounding “less strained”.

One Step at a Time
The key to obtaining optimal results from trim tabs is to operate them in short “bursts” and let the boat react before making another adjustment. The amount of time between corrections is influenced by the size of the trim tabs and the boat’s speed. This will help avoid overtrimming or ending up with one tab too far down when correcting lateral trim. You will quickly become acquainted with a boat’s particular traits.

Take Off
Properly sized trim tabs can significantly reduce the time needed to get up on plane. They also allow a boat to keep its bow down and stay on plane at lower speeds.
As the throttle is advanced the stern of the boat begins to squat, lifting the bow. As the boat accelerates, push the bow down position of the helm control in short bursts. The boat reacts by the stern lifting, the bow coming down, speed increasing, and reduced engine laboring. If you over do it and deflect the tabs too far the boat will end up overtrimmed. When over trimmed, the steering becomes “over sensitive” and wants to pull off course to port or starboard. If this occurs, operate the control “bow up" until the desired attitude is established.

Getting the Most from Power Trim
Adjust the trim tabs to achieve the desired running attitude. Then use the power trim to position the propeller thrust parallel to the water flow. If necessary, re-adjust the trim tabs to fine tune the attitude. By observing the boat’s speed and engine RPMs the best combination of trim tabs and power trim will be apparent. Trim tab angle indicators and a power trim angle indicator are particularly useful in duplicating effective settings.

Trimming to Sea Conditions
When running into a head sea you want to trim the bow down so the sharp forward sections of the boat do their work cleaving the waves. This provides the most comfortable ride and minimizes stress on the boat (and passengers). In a following sea the tabs should be fully retracted for maximum steering response.
Correction of a List

As previously mentioned the normal control setup for trim tabs operates in relation to the desired changes in trim and not the actual movement of the tabs. Therefore, do not think about what the tabs are doing, but rather on the control and what you want the boat to do. As above, make the corrections in bursts and allow the boat to settle to the new settings. You may find it easier to correct the boat’s fore and aft attitude before you correct the athwartship trim.

Correction of Porpoising
Operate the tabs in very short bursts of about half a second. Continue until porpoising subsides. The objective is to have only a very slight amount of tab deflection, just the amount needed to cure the up and down motion of the bow.
 
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dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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the pump is only probably 3 lbs so I wouldn't worry about weight but you could place it up front and just run the lines to the back. I'm assuming longer lines are not a problem - tabman will let you know.
My pump is located high and dry in a compartment under the helm. Lines are roughly 30' long.
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
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Feb 10, 2012
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5,524
You rarely hear anything bad about adjustable trim tabs, but they are pricy. Both Bennett and Nauticus make set-it-and-forget-it tabs. Both have excellent customer service and both are really good values. I added Nauticus SmartTabs and it was money well spent.

If I were to add adjustable tabs, based one what I've read here, they would be Bennett's, no doubt.
 

Grandad

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Jun 7, 2011
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Hi Sig. I chose 60 lb Smart Tab actuators to convert my somewhat oversized (12 x 12) stainless tabs by another manufacturer. My 120 HP iron duke I/O can only push my 21' Holiday to about 32 MPH. I chose to go low to avoid the possibility of being over-tabbed and slowing my top end. With your 54 MPH, I suspect that you could gamble on the 80 lb tabs. I wonder if a fixed tab (cheapest) might correct a porpoising problem. - Grandad
 

SigSaurP229

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Oct 1, 2008
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Tabman it has a very rough ride as well. It is just a light boat with a whole lot of ponies pushing it, I am trying to smooth out the ride as well.
 

jestor68

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Jun 12, 2012
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At what speed does the boat begin to become unstable?

I suspect that Starcraft aluminum boats were not designed to go over mid forty mph.

I suspect that you are exceeding the design max speed by overpowering that hull.
 

redneck joe

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sig - here is the road I took. Once I realized how much my current boat met all my needs and probably will not get another for a very long time, I've 'invested' money for the things that make it better. Seems this is 'the' boat for you.
 

SigSaurP229

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Oct 1, 2008
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Boat is at max hp but not over for the StarCraft design, unless the rumors are true, and my particular Yamaha is actually pushing closer to 170 hp, and was under rated by the manufacturer.

Joe this is my "It" boat, and I have really tried to do things right. $700 is a lot of bills, but it may be worth it.
 
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sphelps

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Nov 16, 2011
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Do you know what degree your transom is . I could never get mine to stop porpoising even with tabs . I finally figured out I did not have enough angle on the transom . I installed transom wedges where I could trim the motor further and that completely fixed the problem ..
Just somthing else to check ..
 

SigSaurP229

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Oct 1, 2008
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Hmm that is interesting, I hadn't thought about that angle. I really don't know what degree the transom is, I also really don't know how to figure it out.
 

MRS

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Jul 10, 2005
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I did add the SLT 10 tabs to my boat 19ft. 4.3 outdrive batteries and fuel tank sit in the rear would make a real bad Porpoising problem, plus bow would come up so high have to stand to see over the bow. And when running over wakes side to side action was not fun SLT 10's did take care of these troubles do not have to stand to see over bow any more and running over wakes is nice now. Best thing I have added to the boat so far.....
 

dan02gt

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Aug 30, 2012
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I have the Bennett M80 that Tabman suggested and they are awesome. The pump is small and doesn't weigh a lot. If you can swing it they are well worth the money, and a purchase you will not regret.
 
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redneck joe

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Tabman

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The M80 I recommend comes standard with a control. Some of the larger kits are sold with or without one.
 
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