Do these cracks look like a problem?

[ScottG76]

Been noticing them slowly getting bigger and not sure what the problem is. The guy I boat the boat from redid the transom and everything seems to be in order with it. Solid and I don't notice any rotting. Should I just epoxy it or is there a better chemical that I can use to seal it up? I'm not looking to throw a lot of money into her since I just bought a house.so if I can patch her and have her last a few more seasons I would rather go that route, being that it's a 79 hull. I'm kind of in the market for something bigger right now anyways. Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e5/scottybones/Boat related/20140801_151829.jpg
http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e5/scottybones/Boat related/20140801_151823.jpg

 

[Bubbasboat]

Did you try posting photo's? Forum photo function unreliable at present. Use photobucket.com, upload your photo's and post the IMG code in your post.

 

[airshot]

I am not a glass guy, I prefer aluminum but....if that was my boat I would be worried and want it fixed if possible before using it again.

 

[JimS123]

Stress cracks are common, but if they keep getting bigger its a sign of a structural problem. A boat with a "new transom" is a red flag. Personally, a deal killer for me. Don't drive that boat with your family until you pay a surveyor to check for seaworthyness.

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

A boat with a "new transom" is a red flag.

Well, that all depends on who did the work. If they can show photos of it being done properly then what's the issue? (I'll be glad to bore you with photos of all 3 boats I've rebuilt).

Been noticing them slowly getting bigger and not sure what the problem is.

In THIS case I'd be concerned. Those cracks are in an area where 'stress cracks' are not normal, and the fact that they're getting bigger is a pretty good indicator of trouble. I also see what looks like a poorly sealed splashwell drain, and rusty washers on the engine mount bolts (they should be stainless). I can't tell for sure, but the engine mount bolts don't look like stainless either. All of that screams shoddy workmanship.

Push and pull as hard as you can on the engine's gearcase while watching for any sign of movement in either the transom or the engine mount in relation to the transom. There should be absolutely zero movement there, the least little bit is a problem.

 

[glenn property of pam]

If it was my boat I would pull one off the top bolts out that hold the motor on. It should have stainless hardware so they need to be removed anyway. Once the bolt is out stick your finger in the hole or a flat screw driver and see if the wood is solid or rotten. If the wood looks good then replace the bolts and apply marine silicon

 

[ScottG76]

Push and pull as hard as you can on the engine's gearcase while watching for any sign of movement in either the transom or the engine mount in relation to the transom. There should be absolutely zero movement there, the least little bit is a problem.
[/QUOTE]

There is 0 movement coming from the transom or engine mounts. That's why I'm perplexed at this. I'll keep digging and see what I find.

 

[ScottG76]

I pulled one of the top bolts like suggested and there was a little bit of "mud" along the bolt, but no signs of rotted wood on the inside of the mounting hole. I will flush with freshwater and re-install SS hardware. The cracking fiberglass I'm seeing in a few places not exposed to water. I chalked it up to an old boat. The plan is to use marine tex to fix the cracks and see if anything else comes out of it.

 

[jbcurt00]

Been noticing them slowly getting bigger and not sure what the problem is. The guy I boat the boat from redid the transom and everything seems to be in order with it. Solid and I don't notice any rotting.

Something is moving, IMO, that's why it's cracking.

• stress from a poorly done installation of the new plywood, getting it fitted and tabbed during transom replacement
• when the cap was removed to replace the transom, the cracking area was stressed and now that you're using the boat, they are becoming more evident
• do people step into the splashwell when boarding/off loading or going in and out of the water
• pounding thru wakes/waves/surf at too high a speed when underway stresses the transom
• NOT using a transom saver to lock the motor down and prevent it bouncing around while towing

Just a quick 5 reasons other then a rotten transom that could cause that cracking.............

There's not a whole lot to go on in just the 2 pix, but unless you've used the boat a bunch or the transom was replaced a long time before you bought it, the pix don't reflect what I'd expect to see on a redone transom. Maybe to save money the PO reinstalled the rusty motor mount hardware and used an inexpensive plastic drain tube for the splashwell.

If you haven't yet, I'd take a bunch of core samples of the transom, or at least post pix of the interior side of the transom. I wouldn't bet my boat and motor on a PO's claim of a new transom. And the boat and motor can be replaced. My friends and family can't.

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

I pulled one of the top bolts like suggested and there was a little bit of "mud" along the bolt, but no signs of rotted wood

I know exactly the 'mud' you're talking about, and it's not a good sign. Water has been allowed to get in alongside the mounting bolts for who knows how long, and it's guaranteed that it's now into the transom.

One thing you can do for further investigation is to take some core samples at several locations. To do that you'll drill into the transom from the inside, going about halfway through. Carefully collect the wood chips that come out, inspecting them for any signs of moisture or darkness. Then put the wood chips in a sealed zip-loc bag and put that out in the sun. Any condensation on the inside of the bag means wet wood.

IF all that comes out good you can seal those holes you drilled with marine-tex and sleep better.

 

[JimS123]

Well, that all depends on who did the work. If they can show photos of it being done properly then what's the issue? (I'll be glad to bore you with photos of all 3 boats I've rebuilt).

I've seen DIY jobs that looked better than factory. I've seen jobs by guys who did it for a living that were crap. If you or i did it I wouldn't be concerned, but looking at a used boat with a rebuilt innards is a real big red flag for ME.

 

[JimS123]

I pulled one of the top bolts like suggested and there was a little bit of "mud" along the bolt, but no signs of rotted wood on the inside of the mounting hole. I will flush with freshwater and re-install SS hardware. The cracking fiberglass I'm seeing in a few places not exposed to water. I chalked it up to an old boat. The plan is to use marine tex to fix the cracks and see if anything else comes out of it.

"Mud" is the red flag. Even if its done right, the expanding cracks means that marine tex won't do the job.

 

[glenn property of pam]

one of the problems with a rebuilt boat is that any damage could be new or old. If the transom was replaced the worst place to break the bond is at the splash pan. so theres no surprise to see cracks in the splash pan on a boat that has had the transom replaced. Theres also no surprise to see a crack splash pan from damage that was done before the transom was replaced. Now the question is are they really growing or is the fiberglass not as polished so they are more visible. I would replace the drain as that looks like it wasn't sealed correctly. core samples are your best bet.

 

[ScottG76]

How would I go about replacing the drain? Best to keep things from getting worse anyways

 

[greenbush future]

How would I go about replacing the drain? Best to keep things from getting worse anyways

Just take a utility blade and cut that plastic one out, kind of collapse this one, then I would be checking to ensure you don't have mud in this area too. If you do, it's yet another sign of moisture in the transom. You can order new drain plugs and sealer right here. Not a job I would take in to be done, especially when you need some knowledge about what's going on inside your transom. I'll bet this job is a 2 on the difficult scale of 1-10.