no steering at high speed!!

[Fun Times]

Re: Rotary steering replacement

Re: Rotary steering replacement

The below information should help give you a few ideas to choose from.

Teleflex QC II Replacement steering cables feature the patented QC - Quick Connect - cable system. These Teleflex QC II cables supersede many Teleflex steering cables, including Teleflex Big-T single station cable steering, for boats with inboards, outboards & stern drives, with one or two engines. The QC II is the one cable you need for nearly all Teleflex rotary steering since 1968!
Direct replacement for SSC62 & SSC72 cables, so it fits the following complete systems: Fits the SS132, SS137 and SS147 rotary steering system
Safe-T QC stern drive steering - SS137
NFB Safe-T II outboard steering - SS132
NFB 4.2 outboard steering - SS147
Single station push-pull Big-T steering systems - SH500P
Safe-T Threaded Spigot Steering Cable - SSC72
Teleflex Morse - QC II Replacement Steering Cable SSC-61

Once you find exactly what your looking for, you should be able to find everything you need available right here on iboats. Complete Boat Rotary Steering Kits - iboats

Hope this helps, good luck.

 

[izoomie]

Re: How to make steering easier to turn on runabout?

Re: How to make steering easier to turn on runabout?

I have this problem on my Legend.
1. Disconnected the steering linkage at the motor.
2. Try to pivot the motor by hand. If it's easy, that's not your problem.
3. Turn the steering wheel lock to lock, if it turns easy then that's also not your problem

My instructions told me to turn the steering wheel so the steering linkage is all the way into the sleeve then apply grease to the nipple. I did that once and it seemed to help a bit but I'll do it again to try to loosen it up.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Steering cable to long, switch to port side?

Re: Steering cable to long, switch to port side?

I did it with a rack and pinion steering for the same reason: the cable was too long. I had to flip the rack over so the steering wheel turned the correct direction. SOME--not all rotary helms have the capability of inserting the steering cable in the top which would do the exact same thing: reverse direction and steering wheel will turn correctly. Look at the way the cable enters the helm and remove the grease guard from the top. hen, if the two are the same, simply pull out the cable and re-insert it into the top. You will need to have the steering all the way to one side (I don't remember) or open the helm so the wheel and cable are centered when the engine is centered. That is, you will have equal turns in either direction.

 

[limitout]

Re: Steering cable to long, switch to port side?

Re: Steering cable to long, switch to port side?

first its important to know if you have rack and pinion (saw tooth looking bar) steering or is it rotary steering, if its rotary then just buy a new cable and sell the old one on ebay.

if you have the rack steering AND it allows you to reverse the mount location to the other side, then that would solve the steering issue and you just have to run it across the front of the passenger seat (assuming its not an open bow) so you use up the extra long length of the cable.

if you need just the cable its around $80, if you need the steering hub it runs around $60, but if you buy the steering kit that comes with both it will run you about $125.

those are ebay prices so you might find it cheaper local but I think those prices are going to be what you find

I don't think Teleflex ever changed the design or how the cable mount connects but its worth a phone call just to be sure any new cable you buy will fit your old version steering hub just like it fits the new ones.

 

[McMark]

Help me pick a steering cable and/or rack

So I've got the dreaded sticky steering syndrome and while I'm changing the cable I'd like to maybe replace the steering box to something with less play in it. I dug around in the parts section to purchase, but it seems there are a ton of replacements. Does anyone have a preference which cable or steering system? I would rather glean the expertise that you guys have instead of me picking something and regretting the purchase later. Here's a picture of what's in there now.

Here is the connection to the motor.

Also, the back section of the cable housing is clamped to the transom. Does Mercury typically not run the cable through the tilt tube? Is clamping it at the transom a better way to go? Should I convert to a cable that goes through the tilt tube while I'm at it?

The boat is a Silverline 16T Comoro with an 80hp Mercury, all from 1972. Here are a couple of pictures of the boat as well.

So what would be a good steering setup upgrade?

 

[Chris1956]

That looks to be an old Teleflex rack and pinion steering system, maybe original. With that motor, a replacement R&P system is fine. The entry-level model will work. Make sure the corners of the cable are not too tight. The radius of your cable looked a bit small to me.

You did prove it is the cable, an not the steering rod, right?

 

[Chris1956]

That looks to be an old Teleflex rack and pinion steering system, maybe original. With that motor, a replacement R&P system is fine. The entry-level model will work. Make sure the corners of the cable are not too tight. The radius of your cable looked a bit small to me.

You did prove it is the cable, an not the steering rod, right?

 

[McMark]

Yes, it's the cable. I had it apart on Saturday. I tried to get a little lube in there to free it up some, but no luck. It still steers and is usable, but not necessarily fun. Do you think a rotary setup would give a little better steering response? This is primarily used on the Monongahela river, not necessarily straight along motoring. I'm also not worried about having the no feedback feature either. I'd like to just steer and go

 

[McMark]

I'm thinking this one. In the proper length of course. I'd like to not have a lot of play in the wheel and it seems like a rotary would be the way to go for that. How about ease of steering, rack vs rotary?

http://www.iboats.com/Uflex-ROTECH-...43823583--session_id.353630046--view_id.49379

 

[McMark]

Also, would it be better to run the steering through the tilt tube as opposed to bolted to the transom?

 

[Fleetwin]

Yes, the tilt tube is there for a reason. You will need a tilt "pin" or rod also. They are engine specific.

Rotary/rack-your choice. The rotary does use less under dash space. Don't go cheap. Go mid range on price. iboats has a great selection-prices are as good as you'll find anywhere else.

 

[Fleetwin]

Here is a link to the "Pin" rod assemblies.

http://www.iboats.com/T-R-Steering-...36076449--session_id.458004138--view_id.40158

You can go back to the system you have. The big difference is cable length.

 

[boosch1]

mores hydrolic steering issues

Hope some one can give me advice on this. I have been having steering issues on my 23 foot 1973 t Craft i bought used last month. Love the boat however have steering issues. I am pretty handy repairing most things but have no clue about hydrolic steering and bleeding. The steering was always a little loose and sticky when i first began to use the boat now I have tons of slop in the wheel and have a hard time steering (seems to have mind of its own) I have not seen or noticed any leaks what so ever any where. I opened the fluid fill and loosened a line got fluid in my mouth. Like I said no clue on steering. I put it back together and now have no movement of rod upon turning wheel feels like I lost all pressure. I am wondering if it was not bleed right to begin with and now pressure is lost. Can I just put fluid in the fill on wheel or is there a special way this has to be done.
boosch1

 

[Watermann]

 

[boosch1]

Thank You seems easy enough
boosch1

 

[Texasmark]

Sorry I can't help. I have no experience with HYDRAULIC steering in the marine environment. But I could go a long way in helping you with farm HYDRAULIC issues.