The joys of boat owner$hip?

Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
55
Bought a 1990 Sea Ray that needed a starter and battery for $1000. My first power boat...

One of the trailer tires wouldn't hold air because the wheel was rusted out, so I purchased two new ones figuring the other wheel wasn't far behind. Thoroughly cleaned the engine and bilge areas.

Took 3 tries at O'riellys to get the proper starter, but they worked hard to find the right one...an actual Marine starter. My brother helped me get the boat running at which time we changed the plugs and points. We set the dwell with a feeler gage. The boat started up, but just barely. We were happy with getting it running. We unhooked all the plug wires and had to verify the firing order and plug wire position on the rotor.

A few days later I bought a dwell meter and timing light. I set the dwell, which was easy using the Harbor freight meter and then set the timing. All the marks on the timing tab are worn off, so I had to find a picture online of a similar tab to figure out where to set the timing. After setting dwell and timing the engine roars to life.

In the meantime I had been working on the upholstery. It took about three weeks full-time to replace all the wooden parts and recover all of them in Marine grade vinyl. Replaced all of the hardware with new stainless, except the t-nuts that were not availible in stainless.

Upholstery complete and engine running, I reinstall the gages which I had cleaned and polished. Had to replace the bilge blower and horn switches. Verified operation of all instrument lights, but two are not working upon reinstallation. While verifying timing I notice the engine is overheating. I remove the thermostat housing and observe that the thermostat has disinteegrated with only parts of it left. I order a new thermostat and outdrive water pump, thinking that it needs to be replaced also. The blower motor had seized, so I ordered a replacement.

I now remove the trim pump to clean all connections. The tie bar is corroded and bare copper now, not brass anymore so I order a new piece of brass. All nuts replaced with new brass and new bar installed. Pump was frothy milk so all fluid drained.

I noticed that the trim sender and switch wires are corroded. I try to remove them for refurbishing, but cannot resonably remove both retaining bolts. I need to remove the gimble now, so I pull the upper drive unit. I see in the bellows that it has taken on water due to the muck and grime and corrosion on the drive shaft. The u-joints are shot, so I order a bellows kit, the gimble pivot tool, and new u-joints. When pulling the outdrive offf, I also see the exhaust flappers fall to the ground. Took me a while to figure out what they were.

I replace the outdrive water pump, mounting the lower unit in a wood stand that my daughter and me have built. I examine the upper unit and find that the lower drive seal has separated, so I order a seal kit for the upper unit and the special wrench I need to get the drive shaft out. I manage to remove all the u-joint clips and beat out the u-joints with a hammer. I had to file a couple of the 'ears' on the bearing retainer at 45 degrees to allow the u-joint cross to clear when hammering them out.

The center floor section above the fuel tank was bowed down. I removed it to find that the two pieces of plywood had been joined with steel brads that had all rusted away. I pre-stressed the pieces and screwed them together with stainless. I spent an entire day vacuuming and steam cleaning the boat carpet, removing about 20 pounds of sand and dirt.

I replaced the oem warning placards, which had cracked and faded, with replacements I had made at the local plaque shop. That went fairly well.

A SPECIAL tool arrived today so I was able to remove the bell housing so I can replace all the bellows and water hose and also get to the trim sender unit plug retainer. Toasted one 7/16" wrench while trying to make my OWN special tool and decided it is miller time. We'll give it another go tomorrow.
 
Last edited:

MTboatguy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Jul 8, 2010
Messages
8,988
Welcome to the wonderful world of the boat ownership "Black Hole", you are in good company, remember this website has over a half a million members!

:D
 

Pony

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 27, 2004
Messages
4,355
I always cringe when I hear or read...."all it needs is a starter and a battery" on craigslist and other places. If thats all it needs put the new parts in before you sell it. A water ready boat always brings more $$.

At least you have A) found a great place, B) know a lot about your new to you boat, and C) feel confident in knowing you have done a lot of work that would later be quite a headache
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
17,710
yup, the old "just needs a starter" line . . . gets 'em every time.

Welcome, I am sure you are gaining expertise through all of this and the knowledge will pay dividends going forward.
 

avenger79

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 5, 2008
Messages
1,791
yep, have all the parts, should be an "easy fix" ads are always good as well. or the ever pressent......part is only $5 on Ebay.

sounds like you got a lot of good experience from this boat so far. at least you'll know it's recent history once it's on the water

any pics?
 

Maclin

Admiral
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
6,761
I bought a boat recently that was water ready, and it was, very solid hull/floors and engine runs great, I did have the prop re-furbed before running it. I have since bought a battery, top (my choice), fire extinguisher, new transom straps, winch, cover, foldable trailer step, some more PFD's, still needs bilge pump and ... :)
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
10,272
I'll be about $20k into a $1k boat that was running when I bought it......
 

Maclin

Admiral
Joined
May 27, 2007
Messages
6,761
I'll be about $20k into a $1k boat that was running when I bought it......

RedneckJoe, I may nominate you for the highest ratio of Entry Cost to End Result.... :) Even if you got that boat for free the ratio does not change much!
 

ricohman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
1,631
You've come to the right place. I've been there done that with older boats. I learned lots and had some fun bleeding.
But I got lazy and bought a new boat. This way I spend the same amount of money and spend my time on the water instead of on my back in the driveway.
 

jkust

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 2, 2008
Messages
4,942
Welcome to the world of old boats. Buy a much newer boat and watch the problems mitigate to winterizing and 200 hour tune-ups.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,542
Welcome aboard

BOAT = Break Out Another Thousand. or look at it this way, one BOAT unit = $1000 you will spend BOAT units on newer boats with less repairs or older boats with more repairs
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
55
Thank you everyone for the 'encouragement'. I don't mind wrenching at all. I've done frame-up restorations on several vintage motorcycles and rebuilt a few engines, so I know my way around. When I took the boat to the local upholstery shop, they wanted 3 to 5 thousand to re-do the boat. I said to myself, "for that much...I will learn to do upholstery." and I did. When I went to one of only two "boat" shops they wanted $80 an hour for labor. At the other shop the gentlemen I spoke to was too busy taking a break and was very condesending. He evaded answering me when I asked what his rates were. I decided to do all my own maintenance at that point. I am semi-retired from the Marines, so I have plenty of time on my hands and I get into mischief if I don't stay busy.

I am anxious to get out on the water and have fun. It's been in the 80's and 90's lately, which is good boating weather, not so good for working on a boat. I'll try to post some pics soon.
 

aspeck

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
May 29, 2003
Messages
18,603
Welcome to the money pit! They are expensive, but when on the water, there is no better way to relax and unwind. Lot at it as an investment in your sanity ... if it doesn't drive you over the edge before you ever get to the water! :eek:;):D
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
55
No Title

Yesterday-all parts and "special tools" ordered have arrived. I removed the old and rusty gimble bearing with a puller I borrowed from Oriley's. Made my own install tool to cram the new bearing in.

Today I planned on replacing the seals in the upper drive unit when one of the cover bolts sheared off. "No prob, I'll just drill it out." I have a nice set of left-twist bits for this, as well as some easy-outs. Well, the drilling went well but the bolt didn't come out so out comes the easy-out. "SNAP" Oh crud.....it broke below the surface.

After about an hour grinding with a cheap diamond bit I think it's time to go get a carbide glass/tile bit. I suppose I will try to grind the old bolt out down to the threads and then chase it with a tap.

Is it just me, or does stainless cut differently than mild steel?
 

Attachments

  • photo203388.jpg
    photo203388.jpg
    21.8 KB · Views: 0
  • photo203389.jpg
    photo203389.jpg
    11.5 KB · Views: 0

TonyR64

Cadet
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
10
Stainless doesn't cut, it sort of melts. The bolt more than likely broke because the threads weren't clean when it was put together and it galled. Your best bet is to drill it out and re-tap the threads. I work in the food industry and we have to use stainless hardware everywhere. You can gall a thread putting the bolt in before it ever gets tight and the bolt is going in easy, so be careful using stainless. Threads have to be clean and burr free. Titanium bolts do the same thing, we use them on race cars all the time.

Forgot to add something. When drilling stainless, use a cobalt bit, slow speed and lots of pressure. HSS bits will work if they are very sharp. If you use a HSS bit, if it doesn't cut right away, change bits.
 
Last edited:

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
27,148
MC Pilot, You did not mention what motor/outdrive you have. My '88 SeaRay/Mercruiser 4.3LX had electronic Thunderbolt Ignition. I was surprised your 1990 powerplant still had points. Maybe it is a bit older than you think?

When sourcing parts for my Mercruiser the parts place needed to know whether I had a cast or stamped power steering bracket. Seemed to be a standard and necessary question to get the right parts. Just so you know....
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
55
Thank you for the stainless advice. I am getting closer to getting the stainless out. managed to punch the leftover easy out below the bolt and drilled a bigger hole. Soaking in PB right now. We'll see how it goes. I'm not sure if the bolt was galled. The other three had a white gritty substance on them. Looked like corrosion, but who knows.
 

TonyR64

Cadet
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
10
That's all it takes to gall stainless. Run a thread chaser through the threads before putting in a new bolt.
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
55
Today was moderately productive. Ended up drilling out most of the broken bole and picking out the bolt thread pieces with a pick and needle nose pliers. Despite my best efforts, I ended up enlarging the hole, so went Heli-Coil. Got the drive shaft re-assembled and replaced all the seals in the upper unit.

I may need a smaller torque wrench to set bearing pre-load of 6-8 inch poinds. That's a crazy small measurement, IMHO. Most in-lb wrenches I've seen go from 20 in/lb up.
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2014
Messages
55
MC Pilot, You did not mention what motor/outdrive you have. My '88 SeaRay/Mercruiser 4.3LX had electronic Thunderbolt Ignition. I was surprised your 1990 powerplant still had points. Maybe it is a bit older than you think?

When sourcing parts for my Mercruiser the parts place needed to know whether I had a cast or stamped power steering bracket. Seemed to be a standard and necessary question to get the right parts. Just so you know....

I have the original documentaion for the boat. It is in fact a 1990 model with the 3.0 litre 4 cylinder points and a Mercruiser Alpha One 1st generation outdrive. It really does fire right up and I don't have a problem with points, though they do require periodic maintenance.

Thanks for the advice on getting parts.
 
Top