Fridge only runs on shore power now

[garbageguy]

The refrigerator on my 1998 Wellcraft 240 SE just recently stopped running unless it's on shore power. It is my second season with this particular boat, and the fridge used to run on or off shore power. The only power panel is for when it's on shore power. When connected to shore power, I turn on the main switch and the microwave/refrigerator switch, then turn on the switch in the fridge, and it runs great. The fridge used to run when not connected to shore power, but not now.

Any ideas what I should look at first?

 

[frantically relaxing]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

I'm assuming it's not propane and runs off 12 volt power. The fridge in our Party Cruiser "defaults" to shore power whenever connected to shore or the genny is running. There's a separate switch to turn it on via the batteries.

You may have a switch hiding someplace...? Or you may have a blown fuse or some other reason it's not getting power. MOST of these fridges use 12volt power for the light inside, if the light is coming on when NOT on shore power, that's an indication you DO have power, so there may be a problem with the transformer or relays or some other electric gremlin...

 

[Slip Away]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

Also, AC/DC fridges shut down on 12V if there is not enough voltage from the batteries to run it. I think at 10.6V, but can't remember for sure.

 

[garbageguy]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

Thanks for the previous input. There is no AC/DC switch, there is no fridge light, and the batteries were at full charge.

The weather is starting to turn, so I'm thinking of all the things I can work on when I get 'er out of storage this season. Any other ideas what may be causing this problem, or what I should check?

 

[MTboatguy]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

Similar to an RV Fridge, they will have a control board in the back of it, you need to gain access to see if the fuse is blown on the board, if not a fuse, then you will probably have to get a new control board. What brand and model, I can then look it up in some of my trouble shooting manuals and might be able to give you a trouble shooting path to follow.

 

[garbageguy]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

Similar to an RV Fridge, they will have a control board in the back of it, you need to gain access to see if the fuse is blown on the board, if not a fuse, then you will probably have to get a new control board. What brand and model, I can then look it up in some of my trouble shooting manuals and might be able to give you a trouble shooting path to follow.

Thanks MT. I will try to determine the brand and model when she comes out of storage.

It's the original fridge (as far as I know) in a 1998 Wellcraft 240 SE - if anyone might know what they were installing at that time.

 

[shrew]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

I suspect it is probably a Norcold, though it could be a Dometic. The AC/DC switch should be automatic. It shoudl default to AC unless there is no AC, then it should switch automatically to DC. My Norcold has an interal switch, however that shuts if off for both AC and DC, so if it is running when on AC, then that is not the issue. Provided the battery switch is turned on (I assume you can turn on the cabin lights and pressure water Pump), then you shoudl be getting DC to the fridge.

I'd pull the fridge and using a volt-meter, verify your getting 12v all the way to fridge. There is a large fuse on the back of the fridge. That is the most common reason for the behavior you are describing.

 

[garbageguy]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

Thanks shrew. Sounds like my setup. Good info for me to start investigating with some idea of what to look for first.

All input appreciated.

 

[Fireman431]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

Here is a trouble shooting guide for your fridge:

1) Turn power on and turn thermostat to "7" position (Go to #2)

2) Is the compressor running? (put your hand on top to feel slight vibration to be sure). If Yes-Go to #14. If No-Go to #3

3) Is the DC Breaker is in the "on" position & optional fuse is good?
If Yes-Go to #5 If No-Go to #4

4) Replace fuse if bad or turn breaker "on". Does fuse or breaker blow?
If Yes-Go to #6 If No-Go to #5

5) Check voltage at the refrigerator "+" & "-" terminals on the black module. Is it over 12 VDC? If Yes-Go to #7 If No-Go to #6 - (Go to 17 on AC/DC models)

6) Check batteries, wiring and connections to the refrigerator for fault, corrosion, proper wire sizing and correct the problem. Go back to #1

7) Put a jumper wire between terminals "C" & "T". Is the compressor running now? If Yes-Go to #11 If no-Go to #8

8) Disconnect power. Remove electronic module (philips screw beside terminal designation label will require removal). Disconnect the plug. Measure resistance (ohms) between each of the three compressor terminal pins. Is the measured resistance APPROXIMATELY the same?
If Yes-Go to #9 If No-Go to #10

9) Replace Electronic Module. Go back to #1

10) Have compressor replaced by qualified appliance technician who has the ability to evacuate and recharge the system. This is seldom necessary so please be sure and if possible contact manufacturer for further instruction beforehand.

11) Check wiring to thermostat with ohm meter to ensure there is continuity. (No broken or damaged wires or connectors). Is the wiring okay?
If Yes-Go to #13 If No-Go to #12

12) Disconnect power. Repair or replace wiring as necessary. Go back to #1

13) Replace thermostat. Go back to #1

14) Is the fan running? If Yes-Go to #16 If No-Go to #19

15) Provide extra ventilation (ie. hatch open, Lazerette open - where air can escape). After an hour is it refrigerating?
If Yes-Go to #16 If No-Go to #19

16) Maintain that adequate ventilation has been provided. Add ventilation as required.

17) Have a qualified appliance technician determine if there is a refrigerant leak or a compressor with a mechanical problem.

18) Check voltage at "+" and "F" terminals. Is there 12 VDC (or 24 VDC)?
If Yes-Go to #19 If No-Go to #5

19) Replace fan.

From 20 to 27 Applies to AC/DC Modles Only!

20) Switch DC breaker off and AC breaker on. Does the refrigerator run?
If Yes-Go to #18 If No-Go to #19

21) Turn DC breaker on and check DC voltage on Terminal Block located on side of grey AC power supply. Is it above 12 VDC (or 24VDC)?
If Yes-Go to #24 If No-Go to #6

22) Check fuse on grey AC power supply (4 amp 110V and 2 amp 220V). Is the fuse good? If Yes-Go to #22 If No-Go to #20

23) Remove power supply and determine if there are any indications of a short circuit. If no, replace fuse. Does fuse blow again?
If Yes-Go to #24 If No-Go to #21

24) Check DC voltage output of power supply at black module terminals "+" & "-". Is it above 12 VDC (or 24 VDC)? If Yes-Go to #18 If No-Go to #24

25) Is 110V (or 220V) available at the AC plug?
If Yes-Go to #21 If No-Go to #23

26) Check plug, wiring, breaker, shore power or genset for damage or fault. Repair or replace as required. Go to #17

27) Replace grey AC power supply

I hope this helps. If not, I'm sure there are a bunch of vendors that will be willing to sell you a new fridge.

If it is the power module, let me know. i'll send you the link of where I got mine (if it's not available here on iboats). 3 days for shipping and it was here.

You might want this as well...it's the wiring diagram for the Power Module.

 

[garbageguy]

Re: Fridge only runs on shore power now

Thanks Fireman. (Although with the amount of ice still on Lake Erie, I may not need a fridge for a while this season)

Seriously though, I can't wait to work on this, or anything on the boat...