Re: Trim Tab switches
Below you will find basic troubleshooting I wrote for the Boat Leveler system.
As I mentioned I thin that the valve for the port side is always open, so when ever you run the pump it will move.
Here is a diagram of the system:
You can see the two valves, 12641 & 12701
If you unscrew the valve for the port side you can look inside to see if the spring, plunger, O-ring and valve seat are assembled properly. They should look like this:
Also make sure that both valves are not screwed in too tightly as that will cause them to malfunction.
If you find the port valve is defective or missing parts you can get a new one from Boat Leveler, There is a link to their website below.
To determine why the starboard side is not working you can use the troubleshooting below
Here is a link to their website
Insta Trim Boat Leveler -- The World Leader in Boat Trim Tabs system
I can't find any troubleshooting on their site.
The Boat Leveler system is pretty easy to troubleshoot. I put together this troubleshooting based on how the system works. If you hear the pump running but the Trim Tabs are not moving, check to see that the system is getting good power as low voltage can cause the motor to run but the valves may not open. Clean the connections and pay particular attention to both ends of the ground wire at the pump. Then do the test below.
Here is he wiring for Boat Leveler.
green=Port Valve
white= Starboard Valve
red=Motor Forward (pump pressure)
yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract)
black on HPU=Ground
red on Helm=Control Positive
Here is how you can test it.
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction
(+), Red, Green=Port trim tab down
(+), Red, White=Starboard trim tab down
(+), Red, Green, White=both trim tabs down
(+), Yellow, Green=Port trim tab up
(+), Yellow, White=Starboard trim tab up
(+), Yellow, White, Green=both trim tabs up
If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.
This test may also be done right at the pump by using a hot lead. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires.
If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.
Make sure to check both ends of the black ground wire at the pump for corrosion.
