Battery Question / Noco Chrager

[hail2dskins]

Quick question for anyone with more experience then I have on batteries and chargers. I have NOCO Gen2 on board charger on my boat. The charger is 6 months old and both my batteries are also 6 months old. When first installed all was well, charger worked just fine. I leave this charger hooked up 24/7 when boat is not in use. Recently my boat sat idle in my garage for around 8 weeks while on the charger around the clock. I went to start it and both batteries are dead and I cant even lift or lower my motor? Then charger is showing both banks as fully charged with the solid green lights on.. If I unplug the charger and then reconnect both banks flash red as if batteries are charging as normal, but after around 30 seconds or so the charge lights turn green as if the charging cycle has completed? has anyone ever experienced such a situation?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or help.

 

[BTL]

Sounds like you may have a blown fuse somewhere. I have the same charger and have never experienced this.

Also, HTTR!

 

[bruceb58]

Your batteries are likely toast. What is the voltage at the output of the charger when it says it is fully charged? Should be 13.2V which is the float charge level.

What is the electrolyte level in the batteries?

Out of curiosity, what type batteries?

 

[hail2dskins]

Sounds like you may have a blown fuse somewhere. I have the same charger and have never experienced this.

Also, HTTR!

I will check the fuses. Thanks

 

[hail2dskins]

Your batteries are likely toast. What is the voltage at the output of the charger when it says it is fully charged? Should be 13.2V which is the float charge level.

What is the electrolyte level in the batteries?

Out of curiosity, what type batteries?

Not sure of the voltage or electrolyte? I am researching now how to check this. As I mentioned this is all new to me. The batteries are both made by Crown Batteries. One is a deep cycle group 24, and the other is a deep cycle group 31.

 

[Fed]

How do you know both batteries are dead?

 

[alldodge]

Start with a volt meter. Measure the voltage of the bats with charger ON, then disconnect charger, measure then wait an hour if not close to or above 13V. After an hour the voltage should get closer to 12.7 V or so

Comments:
The start bat should be a start bat and not a deep cycle. Deep cycle bat is good for house or trolling battey

 

[Fed]

The start bat should be a start bat and not a deep cycle.

I'd prefer to have a deep cycle as a start battery so long as the CCAs were adequate and/or equal.
(Not sure if I phrased that properly, hope you get my meaning)
Interested to know your reasoning on this AllDodge?

 

[alldodge]

Interested to know your reasoning on this AllDodge?

Need amps to start unless you have an outboard (in most cases), deep cycles do not provide the surge amps as a start bat. If deep is a tad above needed when new, it will be less when old. Not knowing what is in play, my comment is always use a start bat for starting.

Hope there is not a hidden meaning behind the comment

 

[Fed]

No hidden meaning at all mate it's just that to my way of thinking take a start battery & a deep cycle battery with the same CCAs the only difference between them is the deep cycle battery will deliver longer.
The downside is the deep cycle battery will be heavier & probably larger than the start battery.
My take on the start battery time line is that once upon a time batteries were batteries then the car manufacturers 'invented' the start battery to save money & weight while still delivering enough to crank the cars over, for a while.

 

[bruceb58]

Typically, need a start battery for fuel injected engines since deep discharge batteries will have too much voltage drop. The manufacturers typically have a spec for MCA to meet this requirement. Some of the "Marine" batteries are not really deep discharge and will suffice for this. An example are the Costco(Interstate) Marine batteries. A true deep discharge battery like a Trojan wouldn't work.

Carb's engines don't have this issue.

 

[bruceb58]

Start with a volt meter. Measure the voltage of the bats with charger ON, then disconnect charger, measure then wait an hour if not close to or above 13V. After an hour the voltage should get closer to 12.7 V or so

True...this actually should be the first test. This will remove any doubt that the connection from the battery to the engine is at fault or not.

I would also likely do a load test after these two steps are done.

 

[hail2dskins]

Thanks for the help everyone. I took the batteries out and went to a dealer to have them tested as well as the charger. Bad news is that both batteries are cooked,charger was maintaining at 14.6V on both banks and ran them completely dry. Noco Company said they will warranty the charger but I am out of luck on my batteries. They said the warranty does not cover batteries even if the charger is defective? Don't sound right to me? Guess I will have to pony up some more cash for new batteries.

 

[alldodge]

Suggest getting a different brand of charger, Charles, Guest, Mariner,