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need advice rebuilding a transom.

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  • need advice rebuilding a transom.

    I have a old renken that I've gutted and making a open fisherman with. Originally it had a inboard out-drive. somewhere along the line someone took out the inboard and sealed it off and added a offshore mount to it. the transom portion of it will need new wood and they also made a bulkhead in the old motor area. this will have to be replaced as well. looks like they used untreated plywood and didn't seal it real good with resin and fiberglass. My question is, Can i do this with normal treated 3/4" plywood two layers thick and then seal these items real good with resin and matting?

  • #2
    Don't use treated. Use two layers of 3/4" marine grade or just exterior grade ply glued together with with PL. Then, tab in and cover with multiple layers of glass cloth and CSM or just 1708 glass. Do some research in the restoration section here. Those guys know their stuff.
    SDSeville
    1998 Maxum 2700 SCR
    2001 Sea Ray 180
    1986 19' Sea Ray Seville BR (restored 2011) -- SOLD 2016
    http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=380371
    Merc 470 -- Speedi-sleeves, Breezeworks alternator conversion, 4" heat exchanger, Electric fuel pump

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    • #3
      I prefer tite bond III vs PL as it is the same waterproof glue that is in the exterior plywood and you dont have to wait for it to finish degassing.

      as stated, dont use treated

      post pics so we can help you
      1988 Cruisers Rogue 2420 -VP 290 DP now powered by custom 468 - http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...988-rogue-2420

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      • #4
        Wow, my replies to you are gone. yea, was looking at fur or marine. the marine is 70$ a sheet so leaning towards the exterior grade.

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        • #5
          Ok, I'll bite..... why DON'T anyone use pressure-treated wood/plywood?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by theNailer View Post
            Ok, I'll bite..... why DON'T anyone use pressure-treated wood/plywood?
            I'm assuming cause it is still wet and the Poli will not stick to it. But I don't really know. just guessing.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by calvinbabb View Post

              I'm assuming cause it is still wet and the Poli will not stick to it. But I don't really know. just guessing.

              This^^ However, some have said they were successful glassing over treated ply after they let it dry out for 2 to 3 weeks.
              SDSeville
              1998 Maxum 2700 SCR
              2001 Sea Ray 180
              1986 19' Sea Ray Seville BR (restored 2011) -- SOLD 2016
              http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=380371
              Merc 470 -- Speedi-sleeves, Breezeworks alternator conversion, 4" heat exchanger, Electric fuel pump

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SDSeville View Post


                This^^ However, some have said they were successful glassing over treated ply after they let it dry out for 2 to 3 weeks.
                AND thats only if the treated ply doesnt bend and warp like a potato chip while drying.......
                Money spent @ Boat Restoration should be measured in Smiles & Pride SHOP IBOATS-BOAT SPECS-FORUM HELP-REPAIR/RESTO

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                • #9
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                  Pressure treated has a much higher moisture content than Marine grade and is heavier. You can dry it out but as jb said P.T. has a tendency to warp and check if too dry. We have done a floors this year in the new Sienna PT, it did not warp or crack after storing it in a warm dry shop for a month. We sealed it on all 6 sides with Spar Varnish and predrilled and dipped the screws in varnish. I don't know if that was necessary but did it anyway.
                  Experience is a lifetime of mistakes, wisdom is not making them again.

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