Muriatic acid wash questions

jonny rotten

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
316
I read your supposed to dilute it to 50/50 with water. This label says full strength for boat hulls? (link)
What needs to be taped off. Windows where it meets the hull, rub rail etc..No stainless?
Theres a hatch on the top of the cuddy cabin. The acid will flow around the rubber seal, will it eat it up?
Will it take off the very old hand painted name on the back of the boat?
I saw people used a paint roller with a long handle,like for painting a ceiling. Is that a good way?
How am I supposed to get where the bunks are. Theres 2 on each side. It will looks real funny having 6 inch brown stains down the sides of the boat
When finished do I just add a box of baking soda to a 5 gallon pail of water and brush on to neutralize

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...AY30fco6Rmjg7w
 
Last edited:

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
I have been using acid for cleaning for over 20 years. I personally don't like using muriatic acid, but it is more of a personal preference than anything. There are much cheaper acids that get the job done (The Works toilet cleaner comes to mind).

With that being said, a couple of rules for working with acid:
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
Oops, hit post... anyways:

keep in mind 2 basic ideas with acid: strength of chemical and dwell time

Test on your hull, underneath where I am assuming the problem is the worst. Start with a 50/50 mixture in a couple of areas and let it dwell for different amounts of time. If it doesn't work, increase your strength of chemical to fit your needs.

When cleaning, wet everything down first. this will eliminate the oops mistakes and protect your chrome, stainless, and glass from etching. (yes, stainless will etch)

Keep a bucket and a rag handy. In the bucket, put a mixture of 1 gallon water and 1/4 cup of baking soda. This mixture will neutralize the acid safely if you get it somewhere you dont want it.

If you do work with full strength, do small sections quickly as it is very aggressive.

I always follow by wiping the whole boat with the baking soda mix to make sure I am neutralizing any acid that gets caught in cracks and crevices. Rinse thoroughly, dry completely, and always follow with a way as there will be none left on the hull.
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
One other item to test is your brush. Not all brushes can handle acid. Dip it in, let it sit for a minute or 2 and inspect the bristles.
 

jimmbo

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 24, 2004
Messages
12,944
That's Hydrochloric Acid. Even diluted it can cause serious harm. Full Personal Protective Equipment needs to be worn, Eye protection, face shield, rubber apron, gloves, boots. Eye wash and Neutralizing agents on site. Breathing apparatus may be required as fumes from the metals contacted by the acid can be toxic

Most Industrial Toilet Bowl cleaners are Hydrochloric Acid too, diluted with an agent to increase viscosity
 

jonny rotten

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
316
That's Hydrochloric Acid. Even diluted it can cause serious harm. Full Personal Protective Equipment needs to be worn, Eye protection, face shield, rubber apron, gloves, boots. Eye wash and Neutralizing agents on site. Breathing apparatus may be required as fumes from the metals contacted by the acid can be toxic

Most Industrial Toilet Bowl cleaners are Hydrochloric Acid too, diluted with an agent to increase viscosity

That's why I was thinking the long paint pole would keep it away from me. I bought goggles rubber gloves and a respirator. will wear long cloths and work boots
 

jonny rotten

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
316
Any other help with the questions before I dive into this tomorrow?

Also, I have vinyl side panels on the inside of the boat. If I use the acid on the top edge down the side of the boat it will drip onto the vinyl and will be rinsed on the carpet when I hose it off. Will that be an issue? Its an older boat but I'd rather not make it worse
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
Any other help with the questions before I dive into this tomorrow?

Also, I have vinyl side panels on the inside of the boat. If I use the acid on the top edge down the side of the boat it will drip onto the vinyl and will be rinsed on the carpet when I hose it off. Will that be an issue? Its an older boat but I'd rather not make it worse


jr, with any iffy issues, always do a little section where you have total control over it and see how things work out first. Then using that info, either proceed or stop. Other then that, just use caution and especially eye protection if nothing else. I would certainly use face and glove protection myself. JMHO
 

jonny rotten

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
316
No Title

Boat turned out more than awesome!
I used a handheld pump sprayer for weeds. Sprayed it on...waited and watched it melt off. It took about 1/2 hour to melt it off.. Bought a buffer and used 3M restorer wax then a Miguiares premium marine wax. Looks great!! Picture is BEFORE buffing and wax. Just sprayed on/ hose off acid...trailer is toast so no worries there
 

Attachments

  • photo269800.jpg
    photo269800.jpg
    255.1 KB · Views: 2
  • photo269801.jpg
    photo269801.jpg
    213.7 KB · Views: 2
Top