New Boat

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
Hello All,
​Well we gave in and bought a different boat it's a 1993 Alumacraft Competitor 170, it needs a little work but over all think we did okay and I hope that you all can confirm so :) It came with a 1994 70hp Johnson with EFI and a 2001 55 lbs thrust Minn kota.

​Looks like someone originally backed the one side step of the trailer into something so that's sort of bent and that rear lens is busted but the trailer is a 1997 Yacht Club.

​The radio currently doesn't work and I'm not sure if that's wiring or the headunit itself but either way when going to put the faceplate on the whole unit slides into the dash so I'm hoping a new radio will come with a better way to secure it to the dash. I've attached pics in the hope that it helps show what i'm talking about.

​The new boat has quite a bit of extra cables/wires from what I believe to be from old depth finders running through the side wall, any reason I should pull them out?

​Also this boat came with a Lowrance Hook 3 depthfinder but we have a Lowrance Elite 5 DSI which we like and want to swap from our old boat to this one. Originally I was thinking since they are both Lowrance we wouldn't have to do much but the plugs seem to be different. That being said what will all have to be changed? Also there is a cable going up to the bow, wondering if that would have been for an old depth finder?

​Also what does the Auto Pilot feature on the trolling motor really mean? i'm a bit confused as there's a smaller/skinnier wire coming from the trolling motor as well.

​Lastly for now :) the trailer on this was far longer than we expected and would be super nice to add a swingaway hitch, is that something that's hard to add? Is there a good kit to purchase to do so?

​here are some pics to hopefully help explain some of the stuff I'm referencing.
​Thanks in advance!
 

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ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Auto Pilot allows you set a course and the motor will follow it, there are a couple different versions, iPilot is the other style. The details will be slightly different depending on the exact model Minn Kota it is.

​You will need to change out the transducer and cable, possibly the power cable too, in other words, just about everything.

​Again, depending on the exact model trolling motor, the extra cable may go to the transducer mounted on the trolling motor housing.

They didn't make an EFI motor in 1994.
 
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jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
No Title

Thanks for the swing tongue link....Doesn't look too terrible but makes me so nervous to cut a trailer, so scared I'd mess up the trailer for good! As for Auto Pilot the plug I showed you I noticed ends up connecting to another end of a cable that goes to the trolling motor head. I attached a pic. The trolling motor is a MKAB2058860 and looks to have it's own transducer puck like on it, I'm assuming that's what you were referring to? If that's the case does that mean it can be hooked up to a depth finder to follow a certain GPS?


​You're right on the motor not having EFI, my bad, got confused with the separate oil tank as I've always had to mix the gas.

​Otherwise did I do okay picking this boat up for $3900? :)
 

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ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Sounds like a fair deal. Ready-to-go fit-in-the-garage fishing boats like that always command a bit of a premium especially this time of year. I think you did well.
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
No Title

Thanks Ezmobee, that makes me feel better :) Now I just need to figure out why there is a connection from the Trolling motor to the steering console, assuming to hook up to a depth finder but I'm guessing it's just not compatible with the Lowrance Hook 3.

Also in terms of putting the swing hitch adapter on, hope do you know where to put it or is anywhere on the tongue okay, in other words could I make it as short as possible installing after moving the trailer jack towards the back as far as I can as I'm assuming you don't want that on the moving part at all ;) I've attached a pic with drawings if that helps :)
 

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jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
No Title

Anyone out there I need more help :)

I've dug into the boat more and have a lot more questions. I've included pics which are hopefully helpful in showing what I'm referring to...

1) There are two I believe transducers on the back of the boat and I'm not sure what they are for. I believe at least one of them is for an old depth finder as there is a loose wire at the steering console and then has a Y as a part of it that goes that then connects to another cable that goes up to the bow and connects to another cable/adapter that goes into the Minnkota trolling motor. I will have to cut this wire to get it out so I'm wondering if there's any reason I should leave these cables/transducer in place for future etc? Also I'm so confused as to why these would connect to the trolling motor as I would think it would be to used the transducer there's one built into the trolling motor as far as I know

​2)Should or horn switch have to be held on to be activated? I can't get it to work and I believe there is voltage at the switch from what I can tell but as I was working on it the back of the switch(the block part) came off the switch and a tiny skinny metal piece came out that looks like it rocks inside the switch when activated. after I put it back together what seemed to be the right way the switch now stays in the on position until I flip it off like the other switches do. The horn doesn't work but was wondering if the switch itself was functioning properly. Is it common for horns to do bad? In theory couldn't I unmount the horn and plug it directly into the two female disconnects connectors that go into the dash switch to see if it works? I did try to put a jumper wire between the two disconnects but still no horn.
 

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briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,090
In your first picture, that appears to be (2) speed sensors/pickups. The white one is probably original to the boat while the black paddle wheel is probably from an older generation fishfinder. I'd suggest tracing the tubing to confirm which one goes to your dash and then pull the one not being used if it's no longer required.

Based on the wiring you posted in other pictures, I'd be fairly confident you have a transducer in your trolling motor and the connections are for moving the old fishfinder up front so you can see what you're going over. Just a guess, I have been wrong before (and will again).

The horn button should be a momentary on/off switch. If it's constant on with no spring return, yeah you could use it but it'll be annoying to do so. Switches are easy to swap out so I'd be looking for a replacement. I'd also confirm you have power at the switch. A test light or multi-meter will tell you that quickly as it could be something simple as a blown fuse.
 

fishin98

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
521
You quite well on the purchase price especially for a Alumacraft. Lund and Alumacraft are the 2 of top 3 aluminum boats on the market. Do not cut ANY wires as of right now. The picture you posted of the stern...The white one is for the speedometer, the black one is a paddle wheel for the speed sensor on a depth finder..looks to be from a OLD Garmin or Lowrance unit. If it was mine ..I would remove it since your going to put a Elite 5 on the boat, which is incompatible with the current set up. Before you rip out or cut ANY of the wiring for the trolling motor, see if you can get any current info for that unit from MinnKota, since it's a 2001 unit don't hold your breath. You may have issues having it work with the Elite 5, so you may need to keep the current unit on the boat just to work the trolling motor. Did the prior owner show you how everything works? While I'm not a fan of Pre E-Tec OMC'S, the motor looks to be a good match for the hull..make sure the Oil Injection system is in working order and does not have GUNK buildup in the bottom of the tank.
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
Thanks briangcc and fishin98, i worked on the boat some tonight and of course have more questions :) I traced the wires back to the two sensors on the stern and one was for the loose depth finder cable and the white one did appear to go to a speedo :) I removed the extra depth finder cable and hope to install our Elite 5 DSI soon in hopes to hit the water this weekend :) Now that I have an extra positive and negative cable from the old depth finder should I just use those for my elite? I believe it has an inline fuse on it already or does my Elite wiring come with an inline fuse?

I looked more into the horn and believe the horn may be the issue because even when I used aligator clips on it and connected it directly to the battery I didn't get any noise? Is that a decent test? I can do more testing but had pulled the horn out to make sure it wasn't full of a dead animal or something like that and being i had it out I figured I'd connect directly to the battery.

As for the horn switch I'm wondering if it simply just needs to be reassembled. I have attached a photo of the parts of it. the tiny elongated U shape metal piece seems to me like it should just rock forward and back when the button is pressed but maybe i lost a spring or something too. If this switch can't be repaired any ideas on where I could get a matching replacement or can just the back piece be replaced so I don't have to get a new front so it still matches?

I also wanted to ask what use to go through the hole in the side for the boat near the shifter. I'm thinking the shifter cables use to go through there but wondering why they would have changed that? Also noticed there are two unused wires hanging almost directly under that hole, (a blue and green wire).

Thanks for the advice on the oil tank and injection as I am a bit nervous as I'm use to mixing gas and wish it was an E-Tec but I just can't afford that right now....I'll check the tank for junk on the bottom but any other advice for things to look out for or to make sure that the oil is getting injected properly?

Thanks again everyone, I really need to do as much of this on my own to save $ and really do appreciate it everyone's time!
 

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briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,090
Yes that is a good test for the horn as it should sound when connected to power. If it isn't, and the battery is good, then the horn is DOA. Inexpensive fix. But I'd still look at replacing the switch as well as one of the photos showed it in pieces and generally speaking they're not meant to be disassembled.

As for the wiring for the depthfinder power - if the connector at the end plugs into your new 5 DSI then by all means go for it. Otherwise you could lob off the end past the fuse and connect the new wiring to the fused power connections. IF you do this I would strongly urge you to solder and shrink wrap the connections to avoid creating a short.

Let me know how you like the 5DSI as I've been doing some research on larger units - the newest member of my fleet came with a Garmin Striker 4 (tiny screen!!) and I was used to my older Eagle Fish Elite (2005 model year). I'm mulling moving the Striker to the bow to use when operating the trolling motor and then the Elite on the dash for the person(s) fishing from the back. Going to be next year though as I spent enough already!
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
Thanks briangcc,
I'll start looking for a new horn. Was starting to work on hooking up our depth finder and was going to reuse the positive and negative from the old one but found the inline fuse holder to be bad. I will get a new one but from what I read a lot of people complain about the old glass style, should I switch over to the new style as the amps are a lot easier to read as well. That being said, I believe the glass fuse in the old older was a 2 amp, what size amp fuse should I put in?

I also read about only having a limited number of connections at the battery. Now I currently have 4 on the starter battery is that bad/too many? Should I be tapping in the wire harness under the dash or connecting to the fuse block instead? I also have the radio to replace and that too has it's separate connection directly to the starter battery.

Thanks much!
 

briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,090
There's nothing really "wrong" with the older tube style fuses as they work just fine and have for decades. Classic cars still use them - my '78 Trans Am has them. If you need to replace, the choice is yours as to staying with the older style tubes or going to the newer blade style.

As for the size of the fuse to use with your new depth finder - I would suggest looking in the owners manual to see what they recommend. Chances are 2A may be sufficient but it may require more. Worst case is call the manufacturer and confirm the power requirements. The new depth finder didn't come with a fuse and holder?

As for limited number of connections to the battery - there are adapters out there for top post and screw terminals that allow multiple connections directly to the battery...within reason. I could see where tagging everything directly to the battery could put undo stress on the battery posts and cause damage to the battery. A picture or two would be helpful to see your current battery setup. If it were my boat, I'd check the distribution block under the dash to see if there was an open port or two where I could make my connections. Would make things so much easier than having to string wire, and secure it, from the dash all the way back to the battery.
 
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fishin98

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
521
When I redid my boat...I purchased a Blue Sea fuse block..I have everything wired into it..Just ran a hot and neg wire from the battery. Your depth finder only needs a 2A fuse.
2e219gn.jpg
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
No Title

Hey guys, Thanks for the replies….I think I may look into getting a new fuse box as I feel like the fuses don’t sit in the current fuse block very well….and like the color identification system of the blade style fuses J I asked what size fuse for my Lowrance and they said a 3 amp so that’s what the boat got. I have no idea what happened to the fuse that came with our Lowrance originally and then the fuse holder on the depthfinder that came with the new boat had an intermittent short in it and would only work intermittently. Here’s a pic of my current battery and fuse box setup. It doesn’t look like I have much for openings in the fuse box so I’m guessing that’s why they ran new wires for the radio and depth finder. Plus I currently have the horn wires unplugged at the fuse block as well….so maybe a new fuse block would be a good investment as I’m assuming I could get one with more connections as well? More importantly we were finally able to take the boat out for a test drive last weekend and it took a bit to start but then idled pretty nicely however the boat just didn’t seem to have the overall get up and go that we were expecting going from a 35 hp to a 70 hp we could only go about 23 mph…at first I thought maybe it wasn’t running on all cylinders or something but figured that if that was the case then it wouldn’t have idled so nicely. On the drive home I was thinking more for not paying attention to the tach to see what the rpms were at full throttle L Any advice on things to look at before we can get it back in the water? Also, the boat would turn kind of hard when turning to the left and if you let go of the steering wheel it would go to the right on it’s own, like a car out of alignment…. As for turning kind of hard to the left it did look like that may have been related to how the cables going to the battery are ziptied to the steering cable and it kind of looked that possibly when turning to the left the steering cable may have actually been getting restricted because of the shorter cables ziptied to it. But I have no idea on why the boat wants to go to the right….any thoughts there? Also, I asked this earlier but shifting and throttle cables seemed to have possibly been changed from stock as the small circular hole on the side of the boat no longer has cables going through it and it seems like a board has been added to where the shifter is mounted. Does anyone know why this may be or if this is indeed stock, etc? Oh and briangcc we do like our 5DSI but are definitely still getting to know it. We do wish it did have a slightly bigger screen as it is nice to use splitscreen. Thanks so much everyone!
 

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fishin98

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 28, 2009
Messages
521
Go with the Blue Sea 12 circuit block...A bit pricey but well worth it in the long run.
 

briangcc

Commander
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Messages
2,090
Pull to the right - if your boat is setup anything like my '99 Bayliner was, you probably don't have a No Feedback helm. So when you get on the throttle, you have to compensate for the prop rotation by turning the steering wheel to the left. Let go of the wheel and you were turning in an instant. Happened when my boat was powered by the 120 Force and the 115 Honda. I'd consider this normal.

Speed wise with my setup, 17'6" with 115 Honda I think I was around 50mph. I think the 120 Force was somewhere around 52-53mph. The difference being the Honda weighing about 200lbs more than the Force so I had the equivalent of an extra person riding on my transom at all times. But it was worth it as that motor was phenomenal. I do miss this boat!


As for your battery - a couple items stick out to me, and I'm being nit picky so take what I say with a grain of salt if you will. I don't like the bungee cord tie down. I'd look into a battery box that you can anchor to the floor and cover up the terminals. Reason I like the box is that with the top of the battery open, it is possible to short across both battery terminals. And you're talking about a decent amount of stored energy in that boat battery so a short could be very bad.

I also don't like the battery connections without a fuse on the positive terminal. IF the insulation gets cut anywhere along its path, there's no fuse to stop the flow of current. Instant toaster. I know a few manufacturers do this from the factory but that doesn't mean it's good practice. IF it were my boat, I'd be putting some fuses in line with those accessories, close to the battery as possible.


Fuse block upgrade - it's a good idea to upgrade if you're out of room on the current fuse block for additional accessories. The only item I would caution on is make sure that the feed from the battery to the fuse block is up to spec with the additional capacity. Last thing you want is to pull more current through a wire that's not rated for the new capacity. Again, toaster effect.


Thanks for the feedback on the fishfinder, I do appreciate it. The Garmin Striker 4 that the new boat came with will have to suffice for this year but I can tell already it's too small. Unfortunately my dash limits the available space, even with a Ram mount so I think I'm stuck with anything in the 5" screen size. That and my admiral has put the kabosh on anything over 5" screen size :facepalm:
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
I'm back....been suffering from migraines so bad lately that it's been hard to function! we were able to get the boat out again this past weekend and it ran great, well thats after I had to hook up our trolling motor battery up to it since our starter battery was dead as a door nail. At first I didn't know if there was any hard in using the deep cycle but I didn't want to waste our trip up to the lake not being able to fish...hopefully that was okay.

Anyways, the rpms were up about 5500 and we hit about 29 mph so I'm hoping that's more like what it should be doing! As for the pull to the right that was still happening, and it also does it when the boat is not running and on the trailer so that makes me wonder if maybe the steering cable is the issue? Also because it turns hard a bit hard to the left. If I do need a new steering cable are they that hard to swap out and how do I know which kind and length I need?

Also noticed after we filled this time out that the gas gauge was only saying 1/2 tank, being this is a builtin tank it would sure be nice to have it working since we can't see the level any advice on that? How do I know if the gauge is bad or if it's wiring etc.

Lastly back to the cranking battery I'm wondering if possibly the radio isnt draining it some as it had a memory wire to hold the time, presets etc. I've read real mixed comments on this topic with a lot of people saying the draw is so mimial it would take months to kill your battery, but others have said that its hard on your battery and they recommend installing an inline switch. Any thoughts on that?
 

jessb_55

Seaman
Joined
Aug 20, 2012
Messages
64
Anyone? Now I've got more problems and need help as none of my switches are working... :(
 

Old Ironmaker

Captain
Joined
Dec 28, 2015
Messages
3,050
Switches for what exactly? I lost power to all 3 livewells, fuel gauge, tilt gauge, it was only a blown fuse on the accessory wiring. I had the same symptoms steering on my 115 Mariner. Once I changed the steering cable all was well. Is it easy to change a steering cable, depends on experience. I didn't lift the engine off to feed the steering shaft. Making a 90 degree turn at the transom with 18" or so of steering shaft was a pain. I needed to do some surgery that thankfully the rubber boot just covers. Remove the motor is my advise and save another migraine.

Welcome to the world of older boats, mine is a 94' StarCraft Superfisherman 190, similar boat with similar problems I have had the last few years. My electrical expertise ends at changing batteries. I invested in a battery booster pack, nice to have a back up for less than 100 bucks and small enough now to fit in a glove box. I too was getting drainage from the stereo and trolling motor. I take the faceplate off now and remember to unplug the Motorguide. It all adds up especially running the auto bilge sitting in the slip. I had a loose transom plug. Experience is a lifetime of mistakes, wisdom is not making them again.
 
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