Impeller Replacement - and maybe a couple other questions

tpenfield

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1) a perfectionist would tweak the engine alignment. If you were able to get the alignment tool in with just a couple of fingers, then it is OK..

2) the oil leaks out while the ball valve is engaging. Pinching the line up by the reservoir bottle really won't stop the flow of what is already in the line and in the outdrive. The trick is to get the outdrive to go 'home' that last 3/4" or so real quick and minimal oil will come out.
 

km2006

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Ok. Cool. I was far from being real quick, did it by myself... so this makes sense that oil would be pouring out then. Phew. Thought I really messed something up. Next is draining and replacing the gear oil. That should be fun. Hopefully I don't create an air bubble.
 

alldodge

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Next is draining and replacing the gear oil. That should be fun. Hopefully I don't create an air bubble.

The gear lube can be changed with the drive installed, in most cases its done prior to install. With it installed, pump it in from the bottom up, install top plug then continue pumping until the bottle is filled.
 

H20Rat

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I would stay away from engine alignment since it is that close and apparently went in easily. The alignment is only a best guess anyway, as the instant you start the engine, there are all kinds of other forces that are pushing the engine around.
 

km2006

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Can anyone tell me what this bottle (yellow cap) is for? Fluid is near the ADD line, but Im not sure what goes in there? View is looking down from above engine right next to transom.
 

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shrew

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Can anyone tell me what this bottle (yellow cap) is for? Fluid is near the ADD line, but Im not sure what goes in there? View is looking down from above engine right next to transom.


Pump and reservoir for Bennett Trim tabs.
 

tpenfield

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Often it is 30 weight oil, but it could also be the special hydraulic fluid.
 

km2006

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Ok. I was thinking of the wrong trim. The outdrive trim. So that gets ATF from what I've been reading. Thanks.
 
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alldodge

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Can anyone tell me what this bottle (yellow cap) is for? Fluid is near the ADD line, but Im not sure what goes in there? View is looking down from above engine right next to transom.

That is your outdrive trim pump and it uses 30W as Ted mentioned.

If you have Bennett trim tabs, it to uses oil and not ATF, only thing that uses ATF is your power steering

fetch


Here is a Bennett Trim pump

V351HPU1-withBackingPlate_500px-500x500.jpg
 

Tabman

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That is your outdrive trim pump and it uses 30W as Ted mentioned.

If you have Bennett trim tabs, it to uses oil and not ATF, only thing that uses ATF is your power steering

fetch


Here is a Bennett Trim pump

V351HPU1-withBackingPlate_500px-500x500.jpg

Bennett Trim Tabs do not use 30W oil. They use any type of automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Using anything other than ATF may damage the seals and O-rings as well as degrade performance.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine
 

alldodge

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Bennett Trim Tabs do not use 30W oil. They use any type of automatic transmission fluid (ATF). Using anything other than ATF may damage the seals and O-rings as well as degrade performance.

Tom McGow
Bennett Marine

Woops my bad :facepalm: , thanks for the catch Tom
 

km2006

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Thanks guys. I got some automatic trim fluid from West Marine. Didn't need much.

New question please:
Bottom paint. The boat has paint, but it is worn off pretty good at the front. Aside from a few bad spots from poor painting skills, the rest looks good. Not too many layers. So My question is, what do I do? I know I need to lightly sand the area(s) I want to paint to scuff it up so the new paint sticks, right? But how can I determine what paint to get?

I did a lot of reading and it simply gave me more questions than answers. Something about rubbing the paint with a damp rag to see if it is hard or soft. I did that. Not sure how to interpret the results. The paint didnt rub right off, but the rag had black on it....... The boat will never leave our local lake (fresh water in lake st. clair michigan). Its a cruiser, not a speed boat. The boat stays in the water during the season.

Copper, no copper, slowly wears away, lasts longer? Hard can go on soft but not the other way around? Confused.

Any help out there?!
 

tpenfield

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It sounds like the paint that is there is the typical copper-based anti-fouling ablative paint used to reduce marine growth on the hull (black and easily rubs off). Maybe you can post a picture or two to be sure.

Many boats that are kept in fresh water do not have paint on the bottom, nor do they need it for marine growth prevention. They do need osmosis protection (blisters), but many do not do that either . . .

Boats that are kept in salt water need an anti-fouling paint as the marine growth is much more active and will soon cover the hull below the water line.

The tough part is taking the paint off. I do not recommend sanding as the dust can be (probably is) toxic. If you think you will just keep with the same type of paint for convenient sake, then a bit of scraping (not too hard) and light sanding can prep it for some touch up . . .
 

km2006

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The paint didn't really come off. I saw black on the rag, but I saw no change in the surface of the paint. Was the black dirt or paint? I wasn't able to tell. I'm sure it was paint. I just couldnt see a blemish after wiping. And I scrubbed the rag pretty hard....
 

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alldodge

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Almost looks like two different paints. Port side looks worst off then the starboard side, but this might be just lighting.

Does appear to be showing some gel coat. It could be the prior owner just put Bottom Kote on and no barrier coat. Bottom Kote is black and many places use it because it doesn't show blemishes so well
 

km2006

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Hi. Would anyone be able to offer advice on how to proceed with the paint? Any idea what type would be best?
 
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