Is a stainless prop worth it??

[viper1216]

Looking for a little info. I got a new Solas prop this year. Great prop and loved it. It got banged up a bit from me hitting something...either a rock or lobster pot. Not sure which. Nothing crazy, but has a bunch of dings and nicks on it that is prompting me to get a new prop for it and have this one machined and repaired. My question, is a stainless prop more durable? It's roughly double the price, so trying to see what the pro's and con's are for them. Engine is 3.0 Mercruiser with an Alpha 1 gen 2.

Thanks!

 

[wrvond]

Yes, it is more durable, but not indestructible. Once upon a time the consensus was that a stainless prop on a small outdrive would cause more damage to the lower unit if it hit something than an aluminum one would. I'm not sure that's altogether true any more.
However, for a 3.0 with Alpha I, I wouldn't (haven't) spent the money on stainless. Aluminum props that fit that rig are too small and inexpensive to worry too much about.

 

[shaw520]

if you are prone to prop strikes i would stick with aluminum.

 

[Alumarine]

However, for a 3.0 with Alpha I, I wouldn't (haven't) spent the money on stainless. Aluminum props that fit that rig are too small and inexpensive to worry too much about.

I think the props are similar with the exception of Bravo drives for all I/O mercruisers regardless of motor size.

 

[jkust]

I think the props are similar with the exception of Bravo drives for all I/O mercruisers regardless of motor size.

Bravo 1's should still fit I believe. I don't know that on a small I/O the full potential of the benefits of an SS prop can be truly realized. While the hub will actually mitigate some of the damage from certain strikes, I would just pick up a couple of extra aluminum props. There are plenty rules of thumb of when an SS will really provide more performance value but I'm sure there are plenty of boaters with 4 cylinders who swear they have better performance with SS. If a person could get a line on a cheap used sS prop then I say go for it but brand new ss, you are paying a lot more but only getting part of what makes ss superior to aluminum. I get that your goal isn't performance.

 

[viper1216]

Awesome, thanks for the info guys. That's kind of what I was thinking and will grab a new aluminum one. I'll see how much it costs to have this one refinished and then will have a backup.

 

[wrvond]

I think the props are similar with the exception of Bravo drives for all I/O mercruisers regardless of motor size.

But it's not until you get into the larger motors that the benefits of stainless props begin to offset their price.
Which is the point I was trying to make.

 

[Alumarine]

But it's not until you get into the larger motors that the benefits of stainless props begin to offset their price.
Which is the point I was trying to make.

Good info to know.

 

[jwall116]

I prefer SS prop's and notice a slight increase in performance using one over aluminum. My boat came with a SS prop, I had the prop reworked at a prop shop and purchased an alum as my backup. If you have a prop shop near you, look for a used SS if it can be had around the same price as a new alum.

The performance increase is minimal on my 130HP outboard. 2mph up top and a little better bite throughout the RPM range. To be fair, the SS prop has been cupped and the alum is factory.

More importantly JUST GO BOATING

 

[Blind Date]

When I hit something with a prop it's at displacement speeds around a dock/landing or navigating a shallow channel. What will trash an aluminum prop won't do anything to an SS prop. I've never once had to rebuild a SS prop. Worst I've had to do is file a few burrs and then polish back up. For that reason I find them cheaper to run than an aluminum.

Even with a 3.0 MerCruiser you'll see noticeable performance benefits with an SS prop over an aluminum. I put a High 5 SS on my 16' Century OB w/3.0 and it made a huge difference for pulling up slalom waterskiers. The only boat I run an aluminum prop on is my 12' Lund w/7.5 HP outboard.

 

[JimS123]

A lot of our boating is in shallow water, with a sandy bottom and a few small stones. We often beach on the "sandbar" with friends. I used to have outboards with aluminum props and inevitably would need a minor prop repair every year. I know the water and use charts religiously, so hitting things is not an issue any more.

Years ago someone suggested switching to a SS prop. The improved performance sold me on the idea.

Our family boat now has a 3.0 liter Mercruiser. I have a SS prop that has been repitched to give 100% optimum speed and fuel economy. I have not done a prop repair in over 30 years.

I wouldn't have anything but SS on my little 4-banger. You couldn't make me run aluminum even if you gave me the prop for free.

 

[SkiDad]

i wasn't sure about SS props several years ago but it's what I've been using exclusively the last few years. I love how well it holds speed - I also notice slightly better acceleration. Both are important to me for skiing. As for top speed I don't think there is any improvement there for my boat.

if you don't want to swing the cost off SS, i recommend Turning Point Hustler - but i think these are pretty aggressive and you "might" consider going down one size if you get one.

 

[R055]

Yes, it is more durable, but not indestructible. Once upon a time the consensus was that a stainless prop on a small outdrive would cause more damage to the lower unit if it hit something than an aluminum one would. I'm not sure that's altogether true any more.
However, for a 3.0 with Alpha I, I wouldn't (haven't) spent the money on stainless. Aluminum props that fit that rig are too small and inexpensive to worry too much about.

I was under the impression that a stainless would do more damage to the lower/prop shaft vs an aluminum prop and that's what's kept me from getting a SS. Any evidence that it does/doesn't?

 

[wrvond]

I was under the impression that a stainless would do more damage to the lower/prop shaft vs an aluminum prop and that's what's kept me from getting a SS. Any evidence that it does/doesn't?

It depends.
How old is your outdrive? The newer MerCruiser units utilize a hub that will allow the prop to spin around the shaft, while older units without the special hub can break parts inside the drive if the prop is stopped suddenly (like a big rock).

 

[JimS123]

I was under the impression that a stainless would do more damage to the lower/prop shaft vs an aluminum prop and that's what's kept me from getting a SS. Any evidence that it does/doesn't?

When I was a youngin' (before I knew about charts) I hit the bottom and destroyed the prop. My one and only time i needed a tow. When I got the repair bill there was more damage to the guts of the lower unit than there was to the prop. It was aluminum!

The mechanic that repaired the motor cautioned me against using a SS prop. he said it didn't matter if you hit something or not. The fact that the prop was heavier would wear out the gears just by normal driving.

That was about 40 years ago. See....some mechanics didn't know crap back then either.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I think SS props don't get nicked as bad as aluminum props do when encountering minor obstacles. I don't know if they really are that much worse than aluminum if you hit something big and immovable.

My SS prop has much better bite and a quicker hole shot than did my aluminum prop. It is definitely noticeable.

 

[rallyart]

Stainless props have ways been cheaper in the long run than aluminum, for me. Less prop damage, less wear, no damage to drivelines, slightly higher speeds and slightly better fuel economy.

 

[gm280]

Personally, I'd take SS prop over aluminum any day. I hear some talk about SS props transfer more damage to the prop shaft and gears because there are so rugged and can take more abuse, but both type props have rubber type inserts to control that. But SS is the way to go. JMHO!

 

[jimmbo]

I prefer SS to AL, but propshafts are expensive too! I've bent a couple. As for cushioned hubs... Not all props use them these days and they only mildly cushion the shock of shift engagement at best. As for protection on impacts, LOL, great marketing gimmick.

 

[Chris1956]

I would only use a stainless steel prop if it would last longer in the usual water conditions or if it was of a higher performance.

When I had my sterndrive boat, and would water ski on the creek, it would usually hit bottom and chew up the aluminum props. I put a SS prop on it, and solved the problem. The SS prop was unaffected by the sand/mud of the creek bottom. My current outboard boats do not hit bottom in the creek, as they do not squat like that I/O.

Also, the Turning Point Hustler aluminum props are quite similar to high performance SS props, IMO. They are 1/3 to 1/4 the cost of SS props. So at this point I run the Hustlers exclusively. A bit of paint each year, and they are good as new.