'83 SeaRay Express Cruiser 260, Stringer question,

[theNailer]

Can anyone here supply me with hull and stringer build details, let alone the actual 'floorplan design' for this boat? I've been in contact with SeaRay, and they don't have records going back that far.

Point is, I have to rebuild/reinstall the steps down to the galley/cabin, and I'm not sure what is on the other side of the fiber-glassed panels. There should be a blackwater holding tank in the boat that I haven't found yet, but so much is not removable without destruction. Ergo my questions.

My lack of mobility also doesn't help me search, but that's another story altogether.

I just don't want to put screws into a fuel tank, holding tank, or anything else that shouldn't be punctured. Thanks. And yeah, it was SeaRay that clarified that our "Weekender" is actually an "Express Cruiser". As per the serial number.

Learning lots here, with more to go. Much more.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you can try going thru the restoration archives, however with a 33 year old boat, you may have to either deconstruct the boat, or use an FLIR camera (would be cheaper to have the hull surveyed by a surveyor that uses FLIR than spending a grand on a camera)


most searay boats have similar construction. maybe Frisco's restoration would help http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...nature-deck-and-stringer-restoration?t=510077

 

[theNailer]

I obviously was asleep at the switch. It is an '84, not that it matter much. I'm starting to scan that thread, and at the same time am wasting daylight hours sitting here. I'll get some pictures of this behemoth, and hopefully someone can point and say "the fuel tank is (this big by that big) and the blackwater tank is right there".

In a perfect world. And Scott, I do thank you and appreciate your input. When you see the pic's of what we've got going on, and the fact that the OutLaw's anniversary is only a few days away, you'll see why I'm frustrated at being further behind than planned.

I never once thought 'deconstruction'.... not even a hint of such. I may be delusional, but I figured this boats condition was WAY above that. Hopefully, ya'll can glean more from pics, later today.

Back at it....

 

[wrvond]

The fuel tank is normally under the deck in the aft berth, and the holding tank for black water is usually on the starboard side aft. Visible from the engine bay. However, none of that is 100% sure. One thing you can do is locate the holding tank's pump out fitting. It should be on the starboard side where it can be easily reached from a dock. Once you find that, you'll have a good idea where the holding tank is. You may even be able to follow the line from the deck to the tank. Who knows? You might even have a macerator and a seacock.

 

[theNailer]

So much has been going on, and so many other things been worked on. Still trying to advance on this 'step issue', and sad that Sea Ray themselves have 'no' information whatsoever to share.

So the big question on my head at the moment, is how much do the 'base hull designs' change between such different lengths and styles of SeaRay boats? That video is of a '95 22' (sport boat?) and ours is a '84 26' Express Cruiser.

Thank you wrvond, and I'm hoping to get out there tomorrow, to go further with this particular tangent. Still doing outdrive work, and under-dash electrical replacements. So much, to make it 'seaworthy'.

 

[blamtro]

Im curious, what would the flir camera tell you? Infared?

you can try going thru the restoration archives, however with a 33 year old boat, you may have to either deconstruct the boat, or use an FLIR camera (would be cheaper to have the hull surveyed by a surveyor that uses FLIR than spending a grand on a camera)


most searay boats have similar construction. maybe Frisco's restoration would help http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...nature-deck-and-stringer-restoration?t=510077

 

[Scott Danforth]

Infared camera. Sort of like xray vision in psychedelic Technicolor

 

[wrvond]

Two boats eleven years apart and not the same model. Odds are they have pretty much nothing in common other than the pointy end and the flat end are similar.

For repair of the steps, the holding tank is probably nowhere near there, as it is usually a vertical type tank in the engine bay. Shower sump and fuel tank are real issues, though.
How were the old steps fastened in? Tabbed fiberglass? If screws were used on the old assembly, I would endeavor to reuse the old screw holes or make new ones very close to the old ones.

So much has been going on, and so many other things been worked on. Still trying to advance on this 'step issue', and sad that Sea Ray themselves have 'no' information whatsoever to share.

So the big question on my head at the moment, is how much do the 'base hull designs' change between such different lengths and styles of SeaRay boats? That video is of a '95 22' (sport boat?) and ours is a '84 26' Express Cruiser.

Thank you wrvond, and I'm hoping to get out there tomorrow, to go further with this particular tangent. Still doing outdrive work, and under-dash electrical replacements. So much, to make it 'seaworthy'.

 

[theNailer]

Wrvond, and there in lies the rub. The steps were previously held in by "cheap/small/undersize" angle-aluminum brackets that were too short, too narrow, and too thin. Those were held in place by small diameter screws that were bent. Ergo, the "original?" holes are somewhat slotted out.

The walls that these are attached to, are all covered in fiberglass, and carpet has been glued overtop of said fiberglass, hence why I have been seeking "build plans"

Overkill being Under-rated, my intent has been (and is) to do this "right" once and for all. I have a number of pieces of scrap (new) pressure-treated two-by-fours that I'm wanting to affix SOLIDLY and permanently for longevity and safety. What started this all off, is 'wobbly steps'.

Pics to follow, today (hopefully)

 

[jbcurt00]

No need for pressure treated wood or 2X4s and neither would be typical for a done right repair, steps or otherwise, in a fiberglass boats.


Pix BEFORE you attempt a repair would be helpful

 

[theNailer]

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Here is an 'overview' of where the 4 steps are supposed to be:

 

[theNailer]

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OK, (new at this adding pictures thing) I'm not sure how to title the pics, or add commentary, so here's the Step-Down Pump, the Starboard Side, the Port Side, The Fuel Tank Bulkhead, an example of the blue wood removed and the intended Pressure Treated 2x4, and another of the same:

 

[theNailer]

Ok, nothing is working correctly for me at all, regarding these pictures. I have about 30 of them, please, anyone ask anything, and I'll put one up with words describing what it is you want to see. (frustrated here, but I'm trying)

 

[theNailer]

JBcurt, I was replacing 2x2 with 2x4 simply because it seems 'robust-er' to me, and would add to stability. The previous wood was rotted, which made the step 'soft'. The brackets that were screwed in front of them were undersized, to say the least. (I'm not sure if my explanation is clarifying, or muddying... but I'm trying.

 

[ondarvr]

Use the old holes and same size screws, just more of them. Stuff epoxy into the old holes and then re-drill a small pilot hole for the screw, it will be stronger than when new. Use a longer bracket if possible so you can have a couple more screws.

The layout of the tanks, wiring, plumbing, etc, is something that changes frequently, sometimes in the same day depending on the crew and available parts, plus boat builders don't keep much old info around, and this was before the files would be kept on a computer, so it would be a sheet of paper somewhere, meaning even if it did still exist someone would need to know where it is, or spend days or weeks looking for it. All this would be so that the one guy that might ask them 33 years later for a layout of the boat could get his question answered on where to put a screw. Not a slam on you, just the facts.

 

[theNailer]

Ok, so to back up just a touch, the stringers themselves..... same height and thickness from stern to bow? Logic to me, would simply be "yes" but this is something that I don't want to learn the hard way.

The "longer bracket" is exactly what I'm wanting to do, and before I simply started running 'more screws' into the fibreglas covered wood, I just wanted to be sure that it was safe to do so.

The actual previous owner (who babied this boat from day one) died, and the 'son-in-law' who had it knew nothing about this boat, nor did he keep the grandkids away from anything that couldn't be broken. (switches, lights, etc) I/we've pretty much got all that ship-shape now, it's just the steps and the out-drive.

Then to get it into the water. I'm hoping/praying that this can happen within days. So many things have come up in the past few weeks, as I've wanted to be floating by now.

I just don't want to make any situation worse, through my lack of knowledge. Putting any screw into the wrong part of any boat can be catastrophic, right?

 

[wrvond]

Since the deck and hull are not parallel, the stringers, which support the deck on the hull, are going to taper toward the bow. At some point the deck is going to essentially merge with the hull with no room for a stringer. This void is normally filled with an adhesive compound or expanding close cell foam.
Your steps are pretty much forward of the beam, though not by much, and on centerline. This area is going to contain the thickest material.
I've never tried it on fiberglass, but it occurs to me that a stud finder might help you locate what you are looking for.