rubbing compound

[Jcris]

Mornin,
I'm looking for a product recommendation for cleaning and polishing my boat. It's a 96' I/O that's had good care from the previous owner but could use some TLC. The gelcoat needs to be buffed out. It's fairly oxidized in spots and the hull has some brownish stains. I have a random orbital and some pads from some automotive bodywork but am unsure what products are best. I've used 3M in the past and have been very satisfied. What have you used and would recommend?
Thanks
Jcris

 

[dlngr]

I'd recommend 3M ! But not with an orbital,they are for polishing. To do buffing,requires a buffer. {and if your boat is really 96 feet long,you'd better have a very good buffer!!]

 

[Blind Date]

Yep you need a real buffer not an orbital. The 3M Super Duty compound worked wonders on my CVX18. Couple areas I wet sanded.

 

[dingbat]

Well, the brown spots are easily addressed using hull cleaner. The oxidation will require the use of a buffing compound.

I have a strong preference for Smoove Pro-Cut 1000 when it comes to heavy oxidation. For light oxidation or general clean-up, I use Smoove Bubble Gum Micro-Polish which is a compound and polish in one. No need to apply wax over it. Works great and cuts your work in half.

Yes, I second the buffer comment

http://www.smoovewax.com/products.html

 

[boatman37]

i first wet sanded with 1000 grit then 1500 grit then i used presta gel coat and meguiars flagship with an orbital buffer. i could have got it better but ran out of time. next spring i plan to go over the whole boat again with presta super cut then the meguiars flagship again

 

[further]

Wet sanding first if its highly oxidized is the only way IMHO to cut the oxidation, then compound to remove the sanding scratches, then polish, then wax to protect. I used the 3M suite of marine products and was very happy.
Wet sanding should start at the lightest grit that takes out the oxidation, then go higher through 1500 and 2000 to remove the heavy scratches. Lots of threads and youtube videos on this.
Here's what my hull looked like before I started


Here's a test section i did to figure out the process




Variable speed buffer is the way to go. Inexpensive ones can be found at harbor freight...
Good luck

 

[gm280]

Jcris, post a picture or three so we can see how far your hull has oxidized. Some people have great luck buffing and polishing their hulls back to like new. But then there are others that the oxidation is too far gone to bring back. I agree 1000% with using a variable speed buffer and nothing else. I use a Makita 7" variable speed polisher like this.

It does a great job and can run continuously with out any issues. Then go with one system and don't mix manufactures. I mean if you are going with 3M compounds, stay with their produces. Post those boat pictures and even some close up's of the finish as it stands now.

 

[Blind Date]

My Makita doesn't have the fancy bag, but same buffer I bought. Agree with staying w/same products. IMHO doesn't matter whether you go 3M, Meguires, ect. As long as it is done correctly it will look like new when finished. Unlike paint on a car, it is almost impossible to screw up gel with a buffer.

 

[redneck joe]

I used soft scrub.

 

[Jcris]

No Title

Here's a couple pic's
This pic shows the worst of the oxidation and the tool is a variable speed random orbit Porter Cable polisher
Thanks,
Jcris

 

[Blind Date]

That Porter Cable orbital (also have one of those) will never cut through that oxidation. It's fine for maintaining a good finish but you'll need a buffer to bring back that oxidation.

 

[gm280]

Ha Jcris, use what you have and see what happens. Just understand that you need to keep it running and moving to not burn the finish. But do post your results or even steps towards your finish project for us to see. We do love pictures on these forums. I know I am interesting in how it comes out. :thumb:

 

[Jcris]

so it seems I'll be needing a buffer?
Jcris

 

[frantically relaxing]

This is what our Chap looked like after I cleaned 'er up to sell...

--link is a youtube, a bit of the 'before' the pic above, and what I used to shine 'er up. Might surprise ya...

https://youtu.be/-mAVgvtVxbk

 

[Jcris]

Hey,
Decided to go with "further's" suggestion and began wet sanding using 800 grit. The difference is huge. The worst of the oxidation along the transom was easily removed. I'm working toward 1500 then I'll go to a rubbing compound. Then, using my variable orbital polisher I'll polish and then wax. I'm still not sure which products would be best. I'm leaning toward Collinite 885 for the wax. What do you guys think?
Jcris

 

[further]

I think you'll be pleased with the results. I'd recommend the 3m marine rubbing compound and finesse it polish. You can use anything for the wax. I've heard good things about the collinite products.

 

[airdvr1227]

I'll second the 3M recommendation.

 

[Jcris]

Thanks guy's,
Just placed an order for some 3M products
Jcris

 

[garbageguy]

I like the 3M products. Have used, and like, the Collinite wax too

 

[wrvond]

Hey,
Decided to go with "further's" suggestion and began wet sanding using 800 grit. The difference is huge. The worst of the oxidation along the transom was easily removed. I'm working toward 1500 then I'll go to a rubbing compound. Then, using my variable orbital polisher I'll polish and then wax. I'm still not sure which products would be best. I'm leaning toward Collinite 885 for the wax. What do you guys think?
Jcris

So how did this work out for you?
I'm reading lots and lots of conflicting information concerning the RO unit and the fixed spin unit. Reminds me of the 3.0L vs. 4.3L debates...