dual controls for fly bridge and wheel house

[Addis]

Our houseboat has two engines, a fly bridge, and two obsolete computer type drive systems - Micro Commander - I am thinking of replacing it with a cable type system. My question - How can I find out what is needed to convert over to a cable system, or is there another type of system available?

 

[alldodge]

With the amount of distance yo have to go, I don't see a cable system working

 

[Addis]

I guess I should have mentioned that the boat is a 1978 - 36 ft.- Holiday Mansion with duel - 200 hp. - Aquamatic 280 drives.

 

[mr 88]

What is the issue with the Micro Commander ? They are still made and parts are available.

 

[Addis]

I was told my unit is to old by the manufacture ZF Mathers, one of the shiftier control is bad, and I suspect there some wire problem happening. Also my one unit decides to stop operating at the most critical docking times and can't find any one who has knowledge about these.

 

[mr 88]

Get in touch with Control Masters they should be able to help you out. The pointameters are known to go bad after 15 years of use or so. I think the guys name is Ed that helped me out,
1704 Lakeside Ave., Suite 3
Saint Augustine, FL 32084
904-260-9756
904-260-9727 (fax)
web: http://www.controlmastersinc.com

 

[mr 88]

I do have a new old style. My unit does not have the transfer button that you use to transfer from one controller to the other. Usually just one goes bad,not both at the same time.

 

[Addis]

If this unit can be repaired it would cost a lot less then either replacing it with a new unit or changing over to a cable system.
I'll have to give them call. Much appreciated for the information. Maybe there is some light at the end of the tunnel.
Thank you

 

[mr 88]

I am assuming you came into the dock,went for neutral and couldn't "find" it. One other option is to switch the units and put the one that shifts correctly at the helm you use for docking. If you have the one without the transfer button I have a new old one. Hopefully Ed can help you out,his pricing with me was the lowest I could find.

 

[Addis]

The problem experiencing is trying to turn the boat into our slip from a narrow channel. When operating one drive in forward and the other in reverse, the control head for the problem unit will start beeping and that drive goes into neutral. Then of course when the boat is crooked or blocking the channel there seems always another boat trying to pass through the channel. Also on a windy day the problem is really magnified.
When this problem happens the control lever is in the first detent either in forward or reverse position, engine r.p.m. is 600 to 700, and the amp. gauge for that particular unit is about 10 t0
All did ready switch controls heads because that unit was allowing the engine to run at 4,000 r.p.m..

 

[Addis]

Amp gauge below 12 volts and runs between 10 & 12 volts.

 

[frantically relaxing]

Cables work just fine. Our SkipperLiner has 2 helms, with 2 pairs of 50' cables running from the engines to the lower helm shifters, and a 20' or so set running from the lower shifters to the upper shifters. All original and still work nicely and smoothly.

 

[mr 88]

Did you talk to Ed at MasterControls ? That would be my first step. Really sounds like the pointomenter sp. are worn out and not working correctly. ^^^ Some people buy boats with electric controls and would rather fix them than go back to cables for various reasons. Not really answering the original question .

 

[Addis]

So far I had the starter rebuilt and tested which had some bad springs for the brushes and also replaced the 7 year old battery.
Next on the list is to see what the actual output of the alternator is, check the wiring and see if the amp gauge is working correctly.
It seems that the voltage on the amp gauge slowly drops at the lower r.p.m. ( idle) The only using current is the engine, a clock in a radio, and the instruments.
Thank you for the information. Got my hobby!

 

[mr 88]

Many alternators will drop voltage at a lower rpm and increase as the rpms climb. More so on the older units,you can google the model number or engine specs and see what you come up with as far as output goes. I just replaced one of mine on a 1987 and the specs clearly show the correlation between rpms and output. 7 year old battery on a boat is about 3-4 years past its normal life. I change mine every 3 years.

 

[Addis]

Problem solved. Replaced old battery, reduced extra wires on the battery posts by adding buss bars for them, replaced and repaired over twenty splices and wire connections, and also removed several feet of the main wire harness in the engine compartment. The volt gauge I found to be is reading about 3 volts high.System electrical system now shows almost 16 volts when running. Before gauge read 12-13 volts. The computer for this system requires no less than 10 volts otherwise drive will go to a neutral condition. So with all the the bad connections and battery the unit was operating on the edge of going to neutral at a engine idle which would cause my problem and not the Micro Commander system.

 

[JoLin]

Glad you fixed your problem, but a little concerned about your 'running' volts. 16 is too high and a possible indication that the alternator is overcharging the battery. You should be seeing 14.5-ish when the alternator is putting out.

My .02