Testing my 2 live wells?

[DarthVader]

Hello everyone,

First let me say I no nothing when it comes to live wells as I never had to use one before..

So mt question is regarding my 2 live wells I have in the bow of my 1989 Sea Nymph SS175.

Can someone tell me is there a way to test both of my live wells while I am out of the water to make sure that there both in working order?

Now the other question is shouldn't I have 2 bilge pumps in my boat one to pump out any water that may get in my boat and the 2nd pump to run the 2 live wells? I ask as I am only see just the one bilge pump that is at the back of my boat..

So to any one who has a 1989 Sea Nymph SS175 or if any other similar Sea Nymph where would I find the 2nd bilge pump that runs my live wells..?

Now when I look at some other live wells in other boats I would see a pipe or tube that has lots of holes in so it looks like it is spaying in side the live well,

So I notice that when I open up both of my live wells compartment I do not have these tubes,the only thing I see inside my live wells is at the very bottom of the live wells is ether a inlet or out that allows the water to pump in or out if I am correct..

So can some one tell me am I missing this tube with all the holes that would spray water in my live wells to keep the water circulating any parts that should allow the water to be aerated?

I can say that I do have a switch on the dash that does say aeration so I would take it this switch is for the live wells,I do know I have a separate switch that says bilge pump for the bilge pump that is at the back of my boat and I do know that the switch does work..

I just want to make sure my live wells are working for next month as I have a very good friend who puts on what he calls the Buddy Bass Tournament which only consist of usually around 10 to 15 boats the last tournament which was just this past weekend and there was 13 boats,the next one he is hoping to get around 20 boats for the next Buddy Bass Tournament...

 

[fhhuber]

Fill appx 1/2 full with a garden hose and you can test the aerator/re-circulation systems.

Testing the fill pump ... you can turn it on briefly and listen for it. But you can't really tell if it will pump water unless the boat is in the water.

Sometimes the re-circulation is the same as the fill pump with a valve to change from fill to re-circulate.(sometimes there isn't a re-circulation, just an aerator)

Finding the pumps can be "entertaining"... Sometimes easy to find in the bilge near the transom. Sometimes buried somewhere under the live well. If they aren't easy to find... you have to trace the hoses.

****************

I always just leave the live well in fill mode and let it run water out the overflow line. That does the job of recirculate and aerate even if those systems fail.

 

[Silvertip]

Are you certain "both" of them are live/bait wells -- and that one of them is simply a cooler. If there is no spray bar, look carefully inside the wells for a plastic fitting near the top. That fitting is normally adjustable and serves as both the fill and aearation function. Your boat may not have a recirculation feature. If there is no overflow (outlet) at the top of the tank then you are missing the standpipe that fits in the hole in the bottom of the tank. I've never seen a simple livewell system that fills through the bottom.

 

[DarthVader]

Thank You both for your replies,I will get a couple pictures to show you what I am seeing later today as I am not at home and will not be back till later as I am out fishing with a buddy of mine in his boat..

 

[DarthVader]

Ok just a update,I managed to get a few pictures of both my live wells on what I am seeing,I did how ever make a mistake saying that I did not see any of the tubes with the little holes in both the tubes..

Well after further inspecting there is and they where tucked up high enough that I had to physically put my hand up inside under a lip of the live well to feel these tubes..

I did not have time to see if there was another bilge pump that would run the live wells so I will have to see if I can track down where this other bilge pump is..


As I mentioned before I have 2 switches on the dash on each side of the steering wheel one says Bilge and the other says Auto/Aerator/Main,I am not exactly sure how I use this switch as there is 3 settings can someone tell me how I would use this switch, I have never used a live well before and being this is the first time I would need to know how is the proper way to use this switch...I also notice when I was feeling the tubes it looks like there is some sort of valve on them what is this valve for?

Here is the pictures that I took today.

 

[Silvertip]

The MAN setting stands for "MANUAL" meaning this position allows the live well pump to run continuously. AUTO means "AUTOMATIC" and this position is timed operation such that the pump runs for a couple of minutes and then shuts off for several minutes. This is a three position switch (center OFF). AERATOR is the name of the switch function, not one of the features. The switch labeled BILGE operates the bilge pump to keep the bilge dry (and the boat from sinking if it takes on water). Worry more about whether it works or not. Then work with the aerator. So -- what you are missing are the stand pipes that fit into the drain holes for the livewell. If you don't know what a stand pipe is, take the lid off your toilet tank. That big pipe in the middle is a standpipe and serves as an overflow should water level get too high. Same goes for your livewells. If you simply plug those holes and forget to turn off the pump you will have wet feet. Proper use of the aerator switch is not rocket science. Don't touch it until you catch your first fish. Then set the switch to MAN. Water will fill the tank to the top of the standpipe. Then switch to AUTO. Continue fishing. When you are done for the day, set the switch OFF and pull the standpipe to drain the live well. If you wonder why the tank may not drain all the way -- think about it. If the bottom of the tank is below the water level outside the boat, the water level in the livewell will be the same.

 

[Old Ironmaker]

If you intend to release all your fish then yes use the live well. If you are going to keep fish do not use the live well. The water temperature is too high to keep fish fresh in the summer. If catch and release after a weigh in is your thing use the recirc feature always. The die off is a problem that we see in some tourneys now. I simply fill a few large bottles with water and freeze them and put the fish under the frozen bottles. Silvertip has given you a great explanation to use the live well. As far as finding the pumps for the live well, good luck they are probably buried where you will have to take the boat apart to find them. I have never seen mine and I have 2 live wells and 1 bait well. By the way you need to scrub those live wells clean.

 

[Silvertip]

He has no recirculate feature. Fresh water is pumped into those live wells using the MANUAL or AUTO feature. Whether or not fish die in a live well depends where you happen to fish. In the upper midwest water temperature stays cool enough and since systems like this one pump fresh water into the wells, fish do well. Tournament fishing is a whole 'nuther deal as to how fish need to be handled. I eat mine.

 

[DarthVader]

The MAN setting stands for "MANUAL" meaning this position allows the live well pump to run continuously. AUTO means "AUTOMATIC" and this position is timed operation such that the pump runs for a couple of minutes and then shuts off for several minutes. This is a three position switch (center OFF). AERATOR is the name of the switch function, not one of the features. The switch labeled BILGE operates the bilge pump to keep the bilge dry (and the boat from sinking if it takes on water). Worry more about whether it works or not. Then work with the aerator. So -- what you are missing are the stand pipes that fit into the drain holes for the livewell. If you don't know what a stand pipe is, take the lid off your toilet tank. That big pipe in the middle is a standpipe and serves as an overflow should water level get too high. Same goes for your livewells. If you simply plug those holes and forget to turn off the pump you will have wet feet. Proper use of the aerator switch is not rocket science. Don't touch it until you catch your first fish. Then set the switch to MAN. Water will fill the tank to the top of the standpipe. Then switch to AUTO. Continue fishing. When you are done for the day, set the switch OFF and pull the standpipe to drain the live well. If you wonder why the tank may not drain all the way -- think about it. If the bottom of the tank is below the water level outside the boat, the water level in the livewell will be the same.

Thank You so very much for your help Silvertip,this surely help me out a lot on understanding what each switch does,As I mentioned this is the first time I will be using the live wells and want to make sure on how the switches work..Again Thank You so much it is very greatly appreciated..Oh before I forget I take another look to see where those stand pipes are they might be in the box that I got with the boat that has all sorts of goodies in it,I just never looked in it as the person who had the boat before me told me I was all set to hit the water..

 

[DarthVader]

If you intend to release all your fish then yes use the live well. If you are going to keep fish do not use the live well. The water temperature is too high to keep fish fresh in the summer. If catch and release after a weigh in is your thing use the recirc feature always. The die off is a problem that we see in some tourneys now. I simply fill a few large bottles with water and freeze them and put the fish under the frozen bottles. Silvertip has given you a great explanation to use the live well. As far as finding the pumps for the live well, good luck they are probably buried where you will have to take the boat apart to find them. I have never seen mine and I have 2 live wells and 1 bait well. By the way you need to scrub those live wells clean.

Thanks for the info,Yes I do intend to use the live wells for a Little Buddy Bass Tournament that a good friend of mine is putting on next month and it will also be a catch and release,the Tournament will start at 5am and have to be back at the boat launch to get the Bass weigh in then release right at the boat ramp..So I need to keep the Bass alive until at least 1:30 pm..

I am not quite sure what you mean by recirc can you please explain? I am thinking what your saying by this is this is where the pipe that has all the little holes in it spray water back in to the live well to help the fish get oxygen and keep the water moving around but I could be wrong.. Now as to the live wells I am surely going to scrub them clean before I do use them what should I use to clean them will just hot water and dish soap work and make surely that I rinse the live wells very good so there is no soap residue left over..I just have not gotten around to doing it as I did not think I would ever fish any type of Tournament..But now that I am I need to check and clean them up as I was only going to use the live wells at the time for storage..

 

[DarthVader]

He has no recirculate feature. Fresh water is pumped into those live wells using the MANUAL or AUTO feature. Whether or not fish die in a live well depends where you happen to fish. In the upper midwest water temperature stays cool enough and since systems like this one pump fresh water into the wells, fish do well. Tournament fishing is a whole 'nuther deal as to how fish need to be handled. I eat mine.

Thanks Silvertip,I did not think I had that feature but I was not sure,I am not quite sure what the water temp is here in North Eastern New York but I will try and find out,I also eat all the Bass I catch to but seeing this is a catch and release I need to keep them alive..

 

[Old Ironmaker]

I should have said "automatic". Keep that water fresh at all times. Water temps should be similar to here in southern Ontario. We are actually south of a portion of NY state.

 

[DarthVader]

Ok I clean my live wells out very good,I put a hose in the live wells to flush the pipes out and the water came out nice and clean at that back of the transom where the live wells should drain out..well it looks like my live well will not work,I decided to go on the Lake for about 2 hrs to do a little bit of fishing before and test to see if my live wells would work before we got hit with the heavy rain and thunderstorm,

The fish where not biting so I decided this is good time to test the live wells out,So I turned on the switch and nothing happens no water goes in the live well and I do not hear anything running,

I did try to see if I could locate the pump but I could not find it and I really do not want to pull the floor up to find the live well pump to find out if it is a bad pump or if it is something else that is wrong..

The switch does light up so I know there is power to the switch so I am thinking it must be the pump itself that is bad..

So with out knowing where the pump is,is there a way I could just bypass the old pump and buy a new pump so I can at least get both of my live wells working?

I do have a little panel I say that is around 6 x 6 inches square just between the 2 consoles on the floor that I can remove that shows all the pipe connections where I could probably fit a new pump in it.

If bypassing the old pump is not a good idea what could I make or do to have a live well? I only need it to keep my 5 bass alive that I catch for a tournament that last from 5 am till around 2 pm?

 

[Silvertip]

Live well pumps are usually right at the back of the boat, in the bilge, and the INLET for the pump at the back of the boat is actually part of the pump. The pump will also have a fuse somewhere either in the fuse panel or an in-line fuse probably near the pump. Unless there is a screen over the inlet the pump can ingest small twigs or other debris and jam the impeller. That would blow the fuse. Long periods of non-use can also tighten up the bearings so you are probably right. A new pump is in order. And make sure you buy a Live well pump -- not a bilge pump.

 

[DarthVader]

Hello everyone sorry for the late reply back,I went fishing today but after I got back it was late to check to see if there was any power going to the switch so I have to do it tomorrow if I can as the forecast is calling for rain so if I can check everything with a test light and also check to see if there is any fuse that might be blown..

I do want to apologize as I made another mistake,I was thinking that the pump I was seeing was the bilge pump but it was not it was the live well pump,I did find the bilge pump which was just under I little panel only about 10 inches away which this pump is working..

Now tomorrow I will first check the switch with a test light to make sure there is power going to the switch.

If there is power at the switch I will then need to test the wire from the switch to the pump to make sure there is power at the pump,I know how to test the switch but what is the best way to check the wire from the switch to the pump?

Now if there is power to the pump and the pump still does not run I will need to take the pump out of the boat and see if there is anything plugging or jamming up the pump from running..I did look in the inlet on the transom and did not see anything blocking it so I will still need to take it out and take it appart to see if there is anything internally to make sure nothing is on thee inside of the pump..If there is nothing stopping the pump I would have to say the pump is broke and I would need to replace it with a new pump..

Now if I need a new pump what would you all recommend I get to replace the old pump as I know it needs to mount exactly the same way as the old pump is mounted as the pump is held in place through the transom.The 3rd picture you see a gray inlet drain on the back of my transom this is how the pump is connected,the white drain plug too the right is what drains the water out of my live wells..

Here is a picture (Yellow Pump)I tried to take of the live well pump but it was little hard and tight corners to get the picture with my phone..And the white pump is the bilge pump..

 

[DarthVader]

Live well pumps are usually right at the back of the boat, in the bilge, and the INLET for the pump at the back of the boat is actually part of the pump. The pump will also have a fuse somewhere either in the fuse panel or an in-line fuse probably near the pump. Unless there is a screen over the inlet the pump can ingest small twigs or other debris and jam the impeller. That would blow the fuse. Long periods of non-use can also tighten up the bearings so you are probably right. A new pump is in order. And make sure you buy a Live well pump -- not a bilge pump.

Hello Silvertip,

I did what you said and got my pump working,I had to take the pump right off the boat and take it apart as the pump impeller was stuck so I free it up and it now moves freely.

I did how ever notice when I too it apart that there is a pretty good crack that runs down the inside of the casing where the impeller is attached,so I am going to have to get a new live well pump at some point down the road as I am sure this will happen again as I think what happened is that water got inside the motor and created some rust making the impeller get stuck..

By the way what would you recommend I get for a new Live Well pump?

It also does not need to be the most expensive out there as I will not be using the Live Wells a lot at the most maybe 4 to 5 times during the summer maybe early fall..

I want to Thank You and everyone for there help..