cleaning boat with toilet bowl cleaner

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Mikeopsycho

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I'm going to try using 'big red' toilet bowl cleaner on my boat exterior. Do I use it undiluted? Should I spray some on, wait, then rinse it off, or should I scrub a bit? Any tips and tricks to using this stuff? Thanks.
 

roffey

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What is the issue with the boat? I have something like wheel acid that works great for scum on the hull but for oxidation I use rubbing compound and a buffer followed by wax. When I use the acid I put it on a rag and wipe it on then wash it off with soap and water.
 

meder24

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I used toilet bowl cleaner ("It Works") to remove the dirt staining on my hull after leaving my boat in the river for a few days. I found that spraying it on and letting it sit for a few minutes and then wiping off worked well.
I definitely recommend wearing gloves and long sleeves as the cleaner will for sure burn your skin upon contact.
 

Mikeopsycho

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What is the issue with the boat? I have something like wheel acid that works great for scum on the hull but for oxidation I use rubbing compound and a buffer followed by wax. When I use the acid I put it on a rag and wipe it on then wash it off with soap and water.

The boats really dirty after being under a tarp for a couple years during rebuild. It is an old boat, with stains and oxidation. I think the toilet bowl cleaner is some kind of acid.
 

Mikeopsycho

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I used toilet bowl cleaner ("It Works") to remove the dirt staining on my hull after leaving my boat in the river for a few days. I found that spraying it on and letting it sit for a few minutes and then wiping off worked well.
I definitely recommend wearing gloves and long sleeves as the cleaner will for sure burn your skin upon contact.

Thanks meder, Did you spray it on full strength or dilute it? I'm thinking of using a garden type sprayer.
 

roffey

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if its really bad you can use wet sandpaper, then rubbing compound, then buffing compound and then wax. It is a ton of work but the hull will come out like new. If it has teak there is a two step process you can do that will bring it back. Lots of work but fun work and rewarding. For all the stuff you do to the boat this is one of the cheaper thing you can do.
 

frantically relaxing

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"The Works" toilet bowl cleaner is sold at Home Depot and Walmart, it's dirt cheap at about $1.50 a quart or so. It's essentially muriatic acid (hydrogen chloride)...

theworks1.jpg


I've used it for years. Thing is, in the past couple of years they've been changing the percentage of actual acid. For years it was 20%. I've since seen it at 14% and even 9%. Check the bottle, it'll say on the bottom...

theworks2.jpg


The other option is to just buy muriatic acid. But-- I was looking at a gallon at HD the other day, and nowhere on the label did it state the acid percentage. This is handy to know, for dilution and for your money's worth...

Here's what I know, and how I use it..

First, it's only good on calcium deposits. It doesn't clean algae or dirt. Likewise, stuff that will clean your dirt won't much remove calcium.
It's safe to use on most aluminum, like your outdrive, as long as it's rinsed quickly.
50 series aluminum used to make pontoon logs isn't affected.
DON'T get it on anodized aluminum, OR stainless steel. It will etch anodized, and it'll darken stainless. Keep it below the rub rail and dive deck and you should be ok.
Dilution- 20% acid can be diluted 4 to 1 and still work okay, but I like it a bit stronger, say 8 to 10% as an end result. This is why you need to know how strong it is in the first place. If you find 9%, just use it straight--
Application: Get a cheap $9 garden sprayer from Low Depot. This and a garden hose with an on/off trigger sprayer is all you need. No brooms, rags, brushes, nothing. Honest!
Procedure: First, pressure wash everything off you can. Like I said, acid won't clean dirt.
Get some rubber gloves on. Mix your acid and water in the sprayer, and pump it up. Have the garden hose ready and waiting.
Work about a square foot or two at a time. Pick an area that big and spray. You'll know it's working because it'll create smoke while it's burning thru calcium.
This is important- The calcium you're spraying will neutralize the acid in about 5 seconds flat. SO, spray, wait 5 seconds (watch the smoke), spray again. You'll be amazed as you watch the calcium melt away. After about every 4 sprays, douse well with the water hose. If you keep seeing smoke, keep spraying until you don't. Then move on. You'll find a rhythm where you just slowly keep moving, and you'll be done before you know it. No scrubbing, just spray a few times, rinse well, repeat.

I did my 26' Chaparral last year, took about an hour to do the whole boat, and 2 quarts of 20% 'Works'. It was pretty bad and looked like new when I got done. My dock neighbor who usually pays a couple hundred bucks to have this done to his 27'er was stunned.

Muriatic acid won't harm your lawn, or driveway. I've had no trouble with it on my trailer, just keep the water flowing!

Remove unused acid from the sprayer and rinse it and the nozzle with water. The acid does them no good, which is why you buy cheap ones! (I get about 3 or 4 uses out of one)

I'm sure other stuff works, but spray n' rinse and be done-- works for me! :)
 

Mikeopsycho

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Thanks roffey. I think I'll try the big red first. If I'm not happy with the outcome I have some wet sandpaper, but I'd have to pick up some rubbing compound and some buffing compound. I've really fallen short on the cleaning and polishing end of boat ownership. The first time I saw my old boat after I sold it, the new owners had it looking brand new. I remember wishing I knew how to do that. Maybe it's time I learned.
 

JASinIL2006

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The Works is great for river scum! I use it undiluted, let it sit, then scrub it and spray it off. Rinse well. Easy as can be.
 

Mikeopsycho

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Hey FR, thanks for the detailed answer, helps a lot! I was going to use it on the topsides too, but it sounds like it'd be a waste up there.

Sounds good JA S, spray and rinse, my kind of cleaning.
 

Mikeopsycho

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The Big Red worked fairly well at removing the scum at the water line. The only problem I had is it seemed to eat the galvanization on my trailer where it dripped on it. I'm not sure if it ruined the galv., but it turned it black. I may have to spray some galv. paint on the fenders, I'm not sure. I won't worry about it till I get the boat splashed at the end of May. I washed the boat down with boat wash and a scrub brush after using the big red. Next I'll wipe it down with acetone then polish it with a power buffer.
 

25thmustang

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Good to hear it worked. I have used Iron Out with good results on the scum line. Also I have had to use soft scrub on my boat prior to buffing, to get that initial oxidation down before the compounds are used.
 

Twainer

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Just don't leave it on there too long! I used to work for a company that did contracts with Lysol. We would have cases upon cases of the toilet bowl cleaner stacked up & occasionally the bottom bottles would burst open. Later when we would move the pallets you could see where the stuff ate right through the boxes, pallet, & concrete. Don't even want to know the damage my lungs sustained from breathing those chemicals day in & day out.
 

Merlene

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Apr 10, 2017
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I use distilled water + white vinegar solution to remove the scum. That always works. Never use regular tap water because it contains minerals, which can cause the scum buildup. Use 1/2 cup of dishwashing soap and 1/2 cup of white vinegar. Mix it thoroughly and apply over the surface. Allow it to rest for 10 min, then wipe the surface using a squeegee. It will give an immediate response. I haven't tried heard that toilet cleaner can be used to remove the water spots, but not sure how results. Otherwise, go with Hull cleaner that is available in the market. My friend said that it is easy to clean with them, just apply it over the surface of the boat and rinse. It doesn't require any scrubbing and brushing.
 
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