Leaking hatch and side windows

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BigDog98

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Quick question for you guys, any input or advice would be great. Currently purchasing a 1999 searay sundancer that has one leaky top deck hatch and 2 port and starboard oval shaped windows. Would you guys recommend that i remove them and reseal them or can i use Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure? Leaks are not huge but do take on water and do cause water stains. I am willing to try the easier alternative which is the creeping crack cure and then reseal it if it doesn't help but how hard will it be to take out the window once the creeping crack cure drys? Thank You
 
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BigDog98

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BigDog98

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here is a link to more pictures , pics are too big in this upload. Please view
 
wrench 3

wrench 3

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In my experience, if you want a permanent repair you'll have to take them out, clean everything up with acetone or brake parts cleaner, and reseal with a good quality silicone sealer. Something with a bit of body.
 
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airshot

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Have to agree with wrench3 other wise it is just a temporary fix and you will be doing it again soon.
 
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BigDog98

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wrench 3 said:
In my experience, if you want a permanent repair you'll have to take them out, clean everything up with acetone or brake parts cleaner, and reseal with a good quality silicone sealer. Something with a bit of body.
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Yeah i thought the same. I just know it can be a real pain and time consuming. I have hear people say that resealing windows is like a every 5 year thing. Here is something i wanna run by you. If you looked at my photobucket pics you will see water leaks inside the hanging lockers in the cabin , there are not windows or hardware that can cause the leak. I was thinking that it can be leaking from the top half of the boat, since boats are made up of 2 pieces and use a bonding agent to seal 2 pieces together , what are the chances that its leaking through there? And is it possible to seal it back up? I can remove the decorative silver molding / strip that cover up the joint and inspect it but i wonder if its something i can silicone up and put back together.don't want to de-cap the boat to resolve this issue if that's were the water is even coming from.
 
wrench 3

wrench 3

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I couldn't access you photobucket pics. The link only went to their home page.
My hanging locker is under the helm. When they wired the gauges they cut through the water drainage behind the gauges! You never know what your going to find.
If you do wind up resealing the gunnel, I would think you would be OK with the sealer being behind the trim.
 
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BigDog98

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wrench 3 said:
I couldn't access you photobucket pics. The link only went to their home page.
My hanging locker is under the helm. When they wired the gauges they cut through the water drainage behind the gauges! You never know what your going to find.
If you do wind up resealing the gunnel, I would think you would be OK with the sealer being behind the trim.
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The locker is not close to the helm , both are on the port side , one is near the aft cabin and one in the v-birth , both have water stains. Try this link
 
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BigDog98

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Here is a part out of the survey i had done yesterday on the boat. This is a overall report of the condition of fiberglass , does any of it look major and can it be fixed?
 

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wrench 3

wrench 3

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I got the pictures this time. It's hard to get a good idea of the layout without knowing the boat but in the picture of the left side of the locker are the stains not starting above the gunnel? You may have to remove some trim panels to see whats going on. Water some times travels quite a long way before it comes out.
Had a problem with the survey report. I can't blow it up large enough to read. I'm also not that good with fiberglass repair. I can plug a hole but not make it look good. If no one else comes in here you may need to post it in restorations.
 
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BigDog98

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wrench 3 said:
I got the pictures this time. It's hard to get a good idea of the layout without knowing the boat but in the picture of the left side of the locker are the stains not starting above the gunnel? You may have to remove some trim panels to see whats going on. Water some times travels quite a long way before it comes out.
Had a problem with the survey report. I can't blow it up large enough to read. I'm also not that good with fiberglass repair. I can plug a hole but not make it look good. If no one else comes in here you may need to post it in restorations.
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it seems like it is coming from the gunnel on top , to my understanding it can be either the flange for the railing that is leaking or the trim that goes around the boat that covers the 2 half of the boat. Cant be anything else because there are no windows in the area.
 
wrench 3

wrench 3

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My money would be on the flange for the railing. They usually bolt them right through the deck with nuts on the inside. So the water may come through the holes. The only problem is getting at the nuts sometimes.
 
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BigDog98

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Just would like to update this thread , the leak was coming form many spots and all were located. The navigation lights were leaking , all the side windows were leaking , anchor locker leaking and wiper arm leaking. Thank you for all the help!
 
wrvond

wrvond

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BigDog98 said:
Quick question for you guys, any input or advice would be great. Currently purchasing a 1999 searay sundancer that has one leaky top deck hatch and 2 port and starboard oval shaped windows. Would you guys recommend that i remove them and reseal them or can i use Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure? Leaks are not huge but do take on water and do cause water stains. I am willing to try the easier alternative which is the creeping crack cure and then reseal it if it doesn't help but how hard will it be to take out the window once the creeping crack cure drys? Thank You
Click to expand...

Do not use silicone or any product containing silicone to bed deck fittings. 3M 4200 UV is my preferred caulking material. Just about everything on these boats was manufactured by Taylormade. The gasket material for the deck hatch is still available. It cost me about a hundred bucks for enough to do two hatches, so you should be able to get by for half that.
 
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BigDog98

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wrvond said:
Do not use silicone or any product containing silicone to bed deck fittings. 3M 4200 UV is my preferred caulking material. Just about everything on these boats was manufactured by Taylormade. The gasket material for the deck hatch is still available. It cost me about a hundred bucks for enough to do two hatches, so you should be able to get by for half that.
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I already sealed them up last season with 4200 and down corney and anti mildew.
 
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