Replacement live-well aerator question

[Clint KY]

I removed the transom mounted live-well aerator pump today as it had died. The pump, which has been there for 30 years, had a pair of plastic spacers, one inboard, and one outboard that made the pump sit horizontal in the bilge of the boat. None of the replacements I see has this ?feature?. Can I mount a new pump and let the intake tilt down a bit and the pump tilt up a bit without any problems?

And if it is not advisable where can I get a pair of the spacers?

 

[gm280]

Clint, not sure exactly what you're referring to with the tilt down and tilt up fittings. However, if the new pump is made for such an application as an aerator pump, it should work without issue. Post a picture for us to see what you are dealing with and we can offer better suggestions. JMHO!

 

[Clint KY]

No Title

This is the pump in the same horizontal position as it was mounted in the boat. The intake (on right) went through the transom and the nut tightened against the slanted piece just to the left of the nut. I thought the piece to the left of that was removable but it appears as it is built onto the pump body. The arrangement kept the pump level when the intake went through the transom which is angled back. If I install any of the pumps I see in the local shops or online the pump will take the angel of the transom.

 

[alldodge]

Appears the pump just pumps water, brings it in and circulates it. You should be able to mount the new pump at any angle, the inside of the pump will be full of water, I don't see any issues

The original pump was probably mounted that way to keep it low so less likely to be damaged by something dropping on it. Just a guess, don't see where on the boat it was mounted

 

[gm280]

I second AllDodge's statement. Any new pump will take on the angle of the transom but work without issue. I'm using a Rule live well pump with the trull-the-hull setup and it is made to accommodate the angle as well. But I don't see any issue with however they are mounts myself. JMHO!

 

[Silvertip]

That is in fact, a very good design and the tapered spacers are provided for a very good reason. Livewell and aeration pumps by their very design are are not self priming and therefore must have a full impeller housing before they will pump. Some boats can have a transom angle significant enough that the pump sits at an extreme angle that prevents water from reaching the impeller. That angle also makes it possible for an air lock to occur. Both scenarios can occur even if the inlet is below the water line with the boat at rest. I do agree that in the vast majority of the cases the angled pump mounting will work fine. But this boat was fitted with a well designed pump for a reason. Why not use the existing spacers with the new pump.

 

[Clint KY]

That is in fact, a very good design and the tapered spacers are provided for a very good reason. Livewell and aeration pumps by their very design are are not self priming and therefore must have a full impeller housing before they will pump. Some boats can have a transom angle significant enough that the pump sits at an extreme angle that prevents water from reaching the impeller. That angle also makes it possible for an air lock to occur. Both scenarios can occur even if the inlet is below the water line with the boat at rest.

Interesting - I hadn't thought of that.

I do agree that in the vast majority of the cases the angled pump mounting will work fine. But this boat was fitted with a well designed pump for a reason. Why not use the existing spacers with the new pump.

The parts are not usable. The part inboard is part of the pump and the one on the outside is 30 years old and basically disintegrating. I will install the new pump at an angle and check to make sure it is priming and if not I will make a set of shims that align the pump.

The other thing I might try is to install the pump in the upright position, which is an option, which would put the impeller a bit higher making it more likely to prime.

Thanks all.

 

[gm280]

You could make such triangle type (tapered) washers if you have the equipment to do so. But understand that when you use such tapered washers, that the hole has to be drilled larger to allow their use of the angled threaded section. Because you are actually angling the threaded section inside the hole as well. So you have to seal that with more 5200, or whatever you use, type sealant. But you can make such washers out of most anything that is solid and waterproof. Plastic or even aluminum will work. But I would suspect that whatever type new pump you select, it would come with the appropriate hardware as well. JMHO! :noidea:



Obviously not to scale but does show the angled threads through the transom.

 

[Silvertip]

Installing the pump vertically (higher as you indicated) would make it LESS likely to prime. You want water to flow into the pump so the lower you get it the better.. The pump cannot "suck" in water because of its design.

 

[Petedacook]

Do a search for anit airlock transom shims.

 

[Clint KY]

Do a search for anit airlock transom shims.

A search for "anti" airlock shims resulted in me being able to go to the local shop and ask for just the right thing to finally install my pump without wondering if I was going to get it to work. Thanks!

 

[smokeonthewater]

No Title

I'm sorry I'm late to the game but for future reference, angled pumps are readily available.

 

[Clint KY]

But as I stated in the original post I already have the new pump. The shims are ordered and will be here Thursday.
What I need now is weather suitable for working in my unheated workshop to finish this project before the spring season.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Hence the reason I said "I'm late to the game" and "for future reference" ;-)

Good luck with your installation... Use plenty of 3m 4200 or 5200

 

[Petedacook]

Thanks, smokeonthewater. Now I know what to seal my aerator inlet with. My boat had been leaking and I suspect the inlet is the perpetrator.

 

[gm280]

Thanks, smokeonthewater. Now I know what to seal my aerator inlet with. My boat had been leaking and I suspect the inlet is the perpetrator.

Yes Petedacook, if you didn't use any quality sealant when you installed the live well pump, I too know where your leak is. Use either the 3m 4200 or 5200 sealant as stated above and your leak will go away. :thumb:

 

[fishin98]

Use 4200 sealant or equivalent, if you use 5200 you will never get it out. This what I'm installing on my Alumacraft project...had a brain fart when I purchased it, should have purchased a 45* angle instead of a 90, I destroyed the packaging opening it up, so no return. Cut the intake pipe to fit, the sea strainer then screws onto the pipe, the threaded lock nut holds all into place...will be using 4200 on both sides. This model of pump has a replaceable cartridge motor.
This is the sealant I'm going to use got at Walmart for just under $7, The 3M product at West Marine was $18

 

[Petedacook]

I need some more advice.

The transom shims I got have holes all over the mounting side of the shim.

Am I supposed to smear this 3M 4200 all over both sides of these shim so that it fills up those cavities and seals against the transom? WTF for lack of a better term. Knowing autos and engines, I can't expect a good seal unless I have a solid surface to seal against a solid surface. Those holes in the shims are going to fill up with sealant, leaving the possibility of a leak.

I appreciate any advice.

Thanks,

Pete

 

[Clint KY]

Am I supposed to smear this 3M 4200 all over both sides of these shim so that it fills up those cavities and seals against the transom?

Yup - It would be better if you had a flat surface with which to deal, but to insure that you (and I) get a good seal, cover all the surfaces that will be touching, meaning the edges of the cavities that press up against the aluminum both inside and out.