Got Me A 1978 Glastron Futura... Need Helpa

[Mojo353]

Hi Guys, New here, new boat owner. This boat was left in the elements for a few years but is complete. The Johnson 140hp runs sweet ( I've read that they are a pretty reliable motor), floor is rotten and just discovered upon further investigation that the transom needs replacing. I'm pretty handy so am confident the work is not beyond my capabilities.
I'm going to be calling on you guys for advice and guidance though....lol
Has anyone any views on Seacast for the transom repair ?

http://www.transomrepair.net/index.php?osCsid=2fb5281902d2fc7cb8a7e0017553eff3

Also the motor is 140hp but the boat is rated for 100hp so I was thinking to use the Seacast product and also strengthen the transom while I'm at it but was wondering how ? as the existing one does not span the full width of the boat. See last 2 attached photos.
Also you can see in the photos there was some "foam planks" ...lol under the floor that were quite heavy and water logged, I assume these were for sound deadening or to weigh the boat down ?.... what can I replace these with ?... Is there a decent marine expanding foam I can use to replace the foam I cut out at the stern ?
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Here is the link to the restoration photos
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B2eFgCwVIO2XRXlDX3kxcGczUms&usp=sharing

 

[jbcurt00]

Mojo
Please use the forum search feature at the upper right corner of a forum page to search for Seacast.

You'll find all the topics it was used or discussed. Be sure to use the right hand down arrow at the end of the search term window to select

Search the whole forum

Expensive but none that used it, as far as I know, have regreted it or had any problems after using it.

Good luck w your project and how about posting some pix of your Futura

Pix posting help info
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum-rules-and-guidelines/9938375-photo-upload-tutorial

 

[Mojo353]

OK thanks for the tips, appreciate that.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Early Glastrons were a light and high performance hull. They were known to have bad floors. While the bottoms were OK, the sides were a little thin for weight savings. This does not affect the strength of the hull though. The transom does not go across the complete width of the hull. I can't tell from your photos bot on either side of the splashwell (underneath) there was a plywood box fiberglassed to the floor and sides and filled with foam. This was a structural member and supported the sides of the shortened transom board. If they are not there, add them back. fabricate from 1/2 inch plywood. You can also bolt some .080 hard aluminum to the inside of the splashwell to help support it

The slabs of foam were simply floatation. If the boat was rated for 100,while it can take the 140, you may be running into drama with state enforcement. My V153 is rated for 90 and I have a 120 on the back.

I am curious as to what length hull it is because as I said, my 1971 V153 is rated for 90 and the 16 footers are (as far as I know) rated for 115

 

[Mojo353]

Hiya, it's just over 16ft and tagged as rated for a 100HP motor. Those boards were there to support the transom but rotted out, the foam on either side was there too but I removed it while I do the re build. There was fiber glass missing from the stringers so I'm surprised they lasted this long. I'm debating about removing the inner skin of the transom. My train of thought is as follows (1) I can easily remove the rotten ply behind it. (2) I can extend the skin to return back to the stern and outward to cover the complete width of the boat, leaving space between it and the outer skin which will form my mould or cast . I can then pour seacast into it from inside the boat and form the new transom.
(3) or I can use the skin as a template for a new skin that will continue straight across the width of the boat without returning it back to follow the profile of the inner hull ( where those foam blocks were.) I can still fill the void behind and to a certain extent in front of the new transom with foam for flotation purposes. It's a lot of work either way but I would rather do it right. Or am I just making too much work for myself ?
Because the transom does not run the full height of the back of the boat (just as high as the splash well) I have about 4 to 6" of space inside the boat to pour the seacast. I can remove the cap of the transom to pour as much as possible there to fill the original transom void, and the rest I can reach from inside.
I will post some pics of what I want to do when I get a chance.
Mission for this weekend is to remove the beast of a motor and secure the boat better, as it's sitting on its trailer at the moment.
Obviously I plan on holding onto the boat and getting good use from it so don't want to have to re address issues in the future that I'm tackling now .
All thoughts/ comments greatly appreciated.

 

[sphelps]

Mojo ,I have done 2 transom's and one set of stringers with seacast ... Been running a 90 hp on the first one now for a few years and have had zero issues with it .. The second boat is still in the rebuild stage ... I have nothing but good things to say about seacast except the price ... So just get ready for some sticker shock .
Good luck ! Cool boat btw !

 

[Mojo353]

Thanks Sphelps,
Nice boat also btw, yep I know seacast can be expensive but I'm good with that cause the review s on the product are second to none.
I just need to decide what way to run the new transom.
Winters are loooong here in Canada so I've got plenty of time ...lol.
I do like the lines of the glastron and believe it's worth the effort. Plus I will have the advantage of knowing it was done right .
Will post pics of the progress.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Depending upon the actual condition of the transom wood, a viable alternative is Git Rot. I did one transom with it. The wood was delaminating and punky but not crumbling rotted. The Git Rot brought it back to better than new with very little work. Some deep drilled holes and spreading the delaminations. The Git Rot poured in and was absorbed almost immediately. Then I clamped the transom and let set for 24 hours. At 30 some-odd bucks a quart to fill and reinforce 100 cubic inches it was expensive but worth the price in labor saved.

 

[Mojo353]

Hmm, would be a viable alternative for me but I removed a few 1" sq sections of the inner skin today only to discover rotted through at the bottom and sogging wet at the top of the transom. So I'm feeling complete replacement is my only option.