Level flotation

[dtroutman]

I have a 1987 Sea Nymph GLS-195 that I am very happy with. However, I would like to know if it will float when submerged, ie, "level flotation? It has a 115hp Evinrude Etec, a 9.9 hp Johnson and a Minnkota trolling motor, plus normal electronics, four downriggers and the usual tackle.

 

[rallyart]

Level floatation is not very common and the manufacturers who try to do that will usually advertise that important safety feature. I would only count on a boat from '87 to keep part of it out of the water and that part might be theV on the bottom of the bow.

 

[jbcurt00]

Level floatation is not very common and the manufacturers who try to do that will usually advertise that important safety feature. I would only count on a boat from '87 to keep part of it out of the water and that part might be the V on the bottom of the bow.

That first part's not accurate ^^^

If the boat is sold in the US, it must meet the USCG level flotation standard after becoming swamped. I don't recall how long it's required to float level, but there is a set time period, and during that period, the boat must remain upright and level, or it fails to meet the standard. The USCG has a list posted online somewhere that lists all the boats that failed the test, and the what the maker did to resolve the failure.

This rule applies to new boats. Used boats likely passed the test when they were new, but after someone took ownership of it, the owner may have allowed the boat's flotation foam to become waterlogged. Then the boat may not float level, but that isn't a failure on the maker's part, that's on the past owners.

So, if this is a new to you, used boat, w/ out detailed info about the boat's condition in general, the details about the below decks condition, details about any changes made to the boat by you or previous owners, and confirmation that the boat isn't over powered (I don't recall off hand if the GLS 195 is rated for a 115, but I think it is), it's weight capacity and the weight of the kicker motor, I wouldn't hazard a guess about whether or not it will float level.

In spec, and in exceptional condition w/ minimal changes made to it, it SHOULD float level, but it may float bow up, or not at all. It is almost a 30yr old boat. And as Rally notes above, currently it might not float level, but not because it wasn't made to. Lots of ugly stuff could be hidden beneath an all new interior.

Welcome to iboats

 

[robert graham]

You might consider the addition of extra foam floatation....maybe under seats, storage areas, etc....to increase your peace of mind....

 

[jigngrub]

Upright and level floatation is a beautiful thing, as shown in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M30nDtZ4iys

The surest way to find out if your boat will float upright and level is to take it to the shallows and pull the bilge plug for a floatation test. If your boat starts to take on more water than you're comfortable with, you can abort the test and put the plug back in and turn on the bilge pumps.

You can also dismantle the interior of your boat and remove any bad foam (I personally would remove all the foam good or bad) and install new foam. You can also install new foam in places the manufacturer didn't want to spend the money... like the gunwales.

The main idea with floatation foam is to fill any areas that will fill with water with foam, displace the water and if the water has no place to go it can't fill the boat and sink it with the weight of the water.

You do want some water to accumulate in the bilge, but only in the center above the keel. The weight of this water will ballast your boat and make it a lot less likely to capsize.

 

[smokeonthewater]

The surest way to find out if your boat will float upright and level is to take it to the shallows and pull the bilge plug for a floatation test. If your boat starts to take on more water than you're comfortable with, you can abort the test and put the plug back in and turn on the bilge pumps..

WOW... some of the worst advice ever given here....

O/P you can just put the "level flotation thing out of your mind.... IF you swamp your boat you will very likely lose a lot of gear, damage equipment and in general have a very bad day.... Even IF the 30 year old boat floats level, it may only take one big wake to turn it over.....

Unless you are doing really stupid stuff or have major damage, the chances of swamping the boat in fair weather are right next to nill.... If you swamp it due to heavy weather, you can forget it staying level in heavy waves....


The moral of the story, keep the water on the outside of the boat and keep or better yet wear life vests.

 

[jigngrub]

WOW... some of the worst advice ever given here....

O/P you can just put the "level flotation thing out of your mind.... IF you swamp your boat you will very likely lose a lot of gear, damage equipment and in general have a very bad day.... Even IF the 30 year old boat floats level, it may only take one big wake to turn it over.....

Unless you are doing really stupid stuff or have major damage, the chances of swamping the boat in fair weather are right next to nill.... If you swamp it due to heavy weather, you can forget it staying level in heavy waves....


The moral of the story, keep the water on the outside of the boat and keep or better yet wear life vests.

I know some people are terrified at the thought of letting some water into their boat to see what will happen in an emergency situation, and I feel both sorry and scared for these people. They will never know what's going to happen until a dire emergency arises... and then it will be too late.

Even older boats can be made to float like the Lund in the video, but the majority of the people would rather skimp or balk at adding safety features and leave whatever happens to chance in case of an emergency. PFDs are all fine and good in warm water and fair weather, but the don't protect you from exposure and hypothermia.

I personally would rather spend the money for a boat that will float upright and level (like the one in the video... and there are many others too) or build/restore one to float like the one in the video... and yes, I would take it to the shallows and test it to make sure my floatation design works. Why? Because I value the lives of my passengers as well as my own. Most of my passengers are family and very close friends and I value their lives as much or more than my own.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Nothing in the world with designing a level flotation system and even testing it but to suggest that someone just pull the plug from their 30 year old boat is not a good idea.... His boat is not gonna float like the one in the video... It will swamp and be mostly under water at best.

 

[smokeonthewater]

No Title

 

[metriccrescentwrench]

I know some people are terrified at the thought of letting some water into their boat to see what will happen in an emergency situation, and I feel both sorry and scared for these people. They will never know what's going to happen until a dire emergency arises... and then it will be too late.
........

And then I've got wet wiring, switches, possibly a submerged engine, etc. etc.... No thanks. I can't believe anyone thinks this is a good idea (I'd do it with my son's jon boat, but not much else).

 

[jigngrub]

And then I've got wet wiring, switches, possibly a submerged engine, etc. etc.... No thanks. I can't believe anyone thinks this is a good idea (I'd do it with my son's jon boat, but not much else).

Did you even watch the Lund video?

... and it's quite obvious that you and sotw missed the part where I said:

If your boat starts to take on more water than you're comfortable with, you can abort the test and put the plug back in and turn on the bilge pumps.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Didn't miss it. ... Read it and determined it was a terrible idea.... Many boats only need to take on a few inches of water to be in big trouble....

 

[jigngrub]

Didn't miss it. ... Read it and determined it was a terrible idea.... Many boats only need to take on a few inches of water to be in big trouble....

If taking on a few inches of water is going to put a boat in big trouble, that boat isn't seaworthy and should not be out on the water to begin with. It should be in dry dock being restored so it will be seaworthy and you don't have to worry about a few inches of water sinking your boat.

 

[smokeonthewater]

You have every right to that opinion but it's not relevant to the O/P's question unless he decides he wants to take the thread that way.

 

[H20Rat]

The surest way to find out if your boat will float upright and level is to take it to the shallows and pull the bilge plug for a floatation test. If your boat starts to take on more water than you're comfortable with, you can abort the test and put the plug back in and turn on the bilge pumps.

No... It is not the surest way. Have you looked where the flotation foam is? On many boats, there is foam just under the edge of the gunwal. That is the absolute best place to put the foam for maximum stability. Having it lower in the hull increases the chances of it turning turtle on you. Unless you let enough water into your boat to get waves over the top of the gunwals, your test tells you ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!

With that in mind, a sinking boat is going to have a period of instability where it may roll enough to actually drop the gunwal edge under water. Your test would tell you the boat is unstable, but in reality, that is actually what is intended to happen. Back to where the foam is located, it won't be fully stable and level until the gunwal foam is supporting some of the load.

 

[jigngrub]

No... It is not the surest way. Have you looked where the flotation foam is?

Of course I have, I'm not afraid to take my boat(s) apart and configure them to my liking.
This is my '98 Tracker Pro Deep V 17:

Notice how the foam is left out of the center above the keel, this is to ballast the boat in the center to give it stability and allow good drainage.

Notice the thickness and amount of foam in this pic:

This displaces water from the sides and keeps it over the keel for stability. Also note the limber holes for good drainage.

Not only is there foam below deck, there's foam above deck as well:

The rectangular "logs" outlined in red are also foam filled, this displaces more water should water rise above the decking in the bilge (but this has never happened to me). There is also ample foam in the bow area below the bow deck.

All this foam and it's careful placement gives my boat upright and level floatation. This boat actually floats better than the Lund in the video because I have a smaller motor. How do I know this? Because I've launched with the bilge plug out (on several occasions). Water never rises above the decking, and since water never rises above the deck... I never notice that I've forgotten to put the plug in until after I've fished all day and put the boat back on the trailer and pulled it out of the water. After I pull the boat out of the water runs out of the bilge drain like a garden hose turned on wide open for several minutes. But since the foam is configured for good drainage all the water drains out and my foam stays nice and dry, after 17 yrs. my foam is dry as a bone and light as a feather.

This is my current "project" boat:

A 1967 MFG Corvette 2 CV

The Coast Guard tag states that the boat is equipped with Positive Floatation, this isn't the same as upright and level floatation, positive floatation only means the boat won't sink to the bottom. It doesn't mean the boat will stay level and upright and it doesn't mean that the boat will only take on a small amount of water like the Lund in the video.

You can't really tell from these pics, but there wasn't that much foam in this boat (between the rotten stringers).


... but all of the old foam has been removed and new 2 part expanding urethane floatation will be installed... in larger quantities and with careful placement to ensure upright and level floatation. Yes it will cost more and be more work than just putting it back the way the boat was built back in 1967, but it will be an improvement and will add a greater margin of safety for myself and my passengers.

... and yes, I will test my floatation design in the same manner I described in my first post to this thread, there will also be a video made and it will be posted to this forum.

Here's a link to my re-do on my Tracker if anyone cares to take a look:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...-repair/521750-97-tracker-pro-deep-v-facelift