downrigger set up help

newtoboat101

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please lookat photo and describe what kind of down rigger set up he has ,i guess my question would be i have purchased a 1988 thompson 240 ,and like this guys setup is everything on a piece of wood then attached to the boat with pedestals ,how does this work and does anyone have pics of their downrigger set up so i can set my boat up correctly the first time have not bought anything yet ,what direction should i go thanx
 

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DeepBlue2010

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Post pictures of you boat and another closeup of the area you intend to install your DR in which will be your gunnels. Do you have access to the underside of this area?
 

newtoboat101

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yes i have access,tell me what you think
 

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DeepBlue2010

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Should be simple enough. If you are going with Scotty or Cannon, put the base plate on the gunnel and tape it so it doesn't move during drilling. The size of the hole in the base plate will determine the size of the bit to use. Drill the first hole all the way through the gunnel and after you done, insert a bolt in it (no need for a nut on the other side at this time, you are just creating an anchor) to stabilize the plate. Do the next one the same way and so on until you done.

Now, remove the plate and bolts. Seal the hole with poly resin or epoxy. Insert a backing plate from the under side (could be sealed plywood or composite material like Starboard)

Go to the hardware store and buy 4 thin rubber washers and put then between the base plate and the gunnel. Alternatively, you can draw a small circle around each hole with 3m marine sealant such as 4200 or 4000. Use the same sealant under the head of each bolt and torque it with a self locking nut (all hardware is SS, of course) from the other side. You're done!
 

newtoboat101

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thank you deep blue yes either scotty or cannon,what kind of set up does first pic have ,does he have all on piece of wood ,to take off and on when he 's not on boat ,so no one steals it,does any one else have set up like this?
 

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DeepBlue2010

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I am not sure what riggers he has. It seems like a commercial (charter) setup and he doesn't want to spend much time installing removing each down rigger individually so he create a stand for them. You don't need to do the same, both brands (Scotty or Cannon) allows you to unhook the DR from the swivel base for safe keeping
 

dingbat

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Having anything permanently attached, glued, bolted or stapled to a transom is a liability. Fishing lines get tangled. Clothing gets snapped. Not to mention it looks bad as well.

If I where you, I'd use the two rod holders you have in the corners and make a "board" mount like the guy in the picture. My down-riggers are are swivel mounted on rod holder mounts. It takes me all of 10 seconds to completely remove and store them out of the way.
 

sam am I

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describe what kind of down rigger set up he has

Pic #1, both outer riggers are Penn (Fathom masters), Pic #2 inner riggers are Big Jon's(Captain's Pack or Pro tournament). Both electric$

The raised pedestals going left to right with a cross plank/platform i"ve fished seems to work best IMO for most reasons like elbow room, tangles, esp if your running more than two riggers, but the pedestal and plank sorta becomes permanent fixture and that's okay if that's what you want to build/have.
With detachable base plates, the riggers can be removed easily but of course the plank and pedestal usually stays.

If your running just two rigger's, use detachable base plates mounted just to the gunnels on left and right stern works well too.

I run four Big Jon's on detachable bases, they are fore and aft of each other on the gunnels on both the port and star sides. I run the two aft most straight'ish back and the two fore riggers out to the sides. I don't necessarily want a cross plank on the back of my raft but been thinking of how to build one that is easily removed due to when running four rigger's, going left to right makes best sense esp. if you get serious.
 
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DeepBlue2010

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Fishing lines will get tangled in both cases so does any other mishaps we can think of. Not sure why it would be better (or less "liability") if it is floating. Are you rigging a commercial/charter boat?

Without knowing what kind of boat you have and how solid your gunnels are, I actually see it much more of liability to have all of this weight hanging on a fish rod holder. Scotty performance takes 15Ib cannon ball; that is 15Ib pulling on the base of the DR then the whole base plus the weight of the rigger itself is - in turn - pulling on the holder. If this holder is installed by screws - not bolts - all of this torque will be acting on the screws only, not the entire surface of the gunnel.
 

newtoboat101

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thank you all,everyone makes some great points,i am not going the charter route,just want a nice, clean, and easy set up to take on the lake thanx for takin a look at my pics and breaking it down for me
 

dingbat

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Fishing lines will get tangled in both cases so does any other mishaps we can think of. Not sure why it would be better (or less "liability") if it is floating. Are you rigging a commercial/charter boat?

Without knowing what kind of boat you have and how solid your gunnels are, I actually see it much more of liability to have all of this weight hanging on a fish rod holder. Scotty performance takes 15Ib cannon ball; that is 15Ib pulling on the base of the DR then the whole base plus the weight of the rigger itself is - in turn - pulling on the holder. If this holder is installed by screws - not bolts - all of this torque will be acting on the screws only, not the entire surface of the gunnel.
Floating isn't the advantage. The advantage is being able to completely remove the rig and not leave any brackets, screws, clip, etc, to snag lines and clothes.

I used to guide. Mostly competitive inshore/ offshore angling anymore.

I'm running an offshore / coastal fishing boat. The rod holders are rated for #80 tackle. It would take a lot more than a #15 ball cannon ball to stress them.;)
 

sam am I

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These base mounts work pretty well (for me anyway) if something has to stay behind. The duck thou seemed quite indifferent to the entire matter.
 

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sam am I

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but been thinking of how to build one that is easily removed due to when running four rigger's, going left to right makes best sense

Something like this guy did. Seems this can be removed at the lower left and right base plates, so with thumb screws/bolts/knobs, poof......gone, just the two mount plates are left(which I have in place already). Think thou, due to the boat difference here, I'll can have a bit of a offset made into a set of custom pedestals that sets the entire plank a tad more aft.
 

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sam am I

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80/20's "T" slot extruded aluminum!!

I drew this up in Acad with their 1530 and 1545, think I can put it together for less then $200...........Anybody ever build with this stuff?
 

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82rude

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80/20's "T" slot extruded aluminum!!

I drew this up in Acad with their 1530 and 1545, think I can put it together for less then $200...........Anybody ever build with this stuff?

you build and I will test for you ,lol.Post 14 photo is a very common set up around here.not necessarily the material but the layout.
 
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sam am I

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you build and I will test for you ,lol.Post 14 photo is a very common set up around here.not necessarily the material but the layout.

Yeah here too I suppose, esp if more a serious troller type. I just don't do that much trolling, but come fall, my dad likes to fish kokanee, he and I'll go out and I could snap this thing on and off as needed.....i.e., spring/summer for bass w/o and to fall with.

I have the materials ordered, I'll snap some pic's and detail a few things here as I go(and/or let ya know if I need a tester :>). Might help OP one way or another if he goes this direction, thinking specifically though, those after market ones going for $700 and up is just insane IMO.
 

dingbat

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80/20's "T" slot extruded aluminum!!

I drew this up in Acad with their 1530 and 1545, think I can put it together for less then $200...........Anybody ever build with this stuff?

We use the stuff here at work from time to time to make test setups. Nice stuff, but very expensive for what it is.
 

sam am I

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We use the stuff here at work from time to time to make test setups. Nice stuff, but very expensive for what it is.

Cool, and ty db! Good to hear feedback from someone who has handled it. Yeah, pricey..........but, looks like after markets are starting at around $500 and up from there and I'd have to customized those. My accountant says order and build away young grasshopper ;)
 

sam am I

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Just a rendering, I drew up a Big Jon(90% complete) and pitched it in the works, I need to add the swivel bases still, oh well .........I was bored BUT, it is to scale, gives a good perspective I suppose.
 

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