How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

pckeen

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Hi,

Although I'm not new to boating, I'm new to winterizing my own outboards. I will be winterizing my 2010 Yamaha F90 shortly (the motor went into service in 2012).

I know that I need to:
- fog the cylinders
- replace lower unit oil
- replace top end oil
- replace fuel filter.

What else should I be doing, and what if any other advice do you have in doing this? What if any mistakes can I make that would result in the engine blowing up in the spring?
 

Pas Bon

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

Personally I would change my fluids in the spring, so they were new and had not sat in a motor for 3-4 months where condensation could be an issue. Replacing the fuel filter may not do much to winterize but is always a good maintenance ite, fogging the cylinders and making sure you get all the water out of it is a good idea
 

Capt Ken

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

You replace the oil before storage to remove the combustion acids that has accumulated and so it doesn't eat at the internals. Run fuel stabilizer through the engine also
 

pckeen

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

How long should I run the motor for, before changing the lower unit oil and engine oil?
 

pckeen

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

Next question - the manual talks about using a pair of muffs to flush the cooling system. It also talks about flushing the power unit by attaching a garden hose to the garden hose connector from the fitting on the bottom cowling.

Am I supposed to do both these things? Isn't the purpose of the garden hose connector to flush the system without the need to use a pair of muffs?
 

Pas Bon

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

You replace the oil before storage to remove the combustion acids that has accumulated and so it doesn't eat at the internals. Run fuel stabilizer through the engine also
Can't argue with that logic! Thanks!
 

99yam40

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

Next question - the manual talks about using a pair of muffs to flush the cooling system. It also talks about flushing the power unit by attaching a garden hose to the garden hose connector from the fitting on the bottom cowling.

Am I supposed to do both these things? Isn't the purpose of the garden hose connector to flush the system without the need to use a pair of muffs?
Some motors will not get enough water on the muffs only and will over heat if run for long .
I do not know if the F90 is one of them or not.

The owners manual says not to run motor when using power head flusher connection only as the water pump may not get enough lub/cooling from water

You can use both and run motor
 

workerbee606

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

I always run fuel stabilizer and ring free as well. I change gear and motor oil in spring. I don't fog the cylinders but I do run the motor on muffs once a month thru the winter months and leave the motor in the fully lower position while on the trailer so the water drains out fully. My motor is a 2012 Yamaha F115. I should ad that I am about to change the Gear oil and motor oil after I get my boat back from the dealer repairs to the transom, as others have said, change the lube in the fall due to contaminants in the motor oil possibly causing damage over time to bearings and what not.
 
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pckeen

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

OK - so I got this job done. The local dealer told me to just run it on muffs - so I did that, without any sign of problems. For the most part, there were youtube videos on much of this, which were very helpful. The only problem I did have was working out how to drain the vapor separator - no youtube vids on this, and the manual didn't explain how to take off the plastic flywheel cover. I worked it out, and made a youtube video. Here it is, for anyone who is having a problem draining the vapor separator.

 

Shermanator31660

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

For what its worth, I had a Yamaha turbo Nytro sled, Yammy techs said not to fog the motors on the 4 strokes but make sure you run the fuel stabilizer through it. Also, as previously mentioned, change the oil and filter before you put it to bed for the winter. I fish all throug the winter so change my oil twice a year, once in the Fall and then again in the Spring.....Sherm
 

pckeen

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Re: How do I Winterize a 2010 Yamaha F90

Interesting - the Yamaha manuals and videos from the techs say to Fog them.
 

pckeen

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So winterized for the second time this year, and I'm making notes here so I know how to do it again next year. Here were the supplies I needed:
4L of engine oil
1 oil filter
1 oil crush washer for the oil drain plug
1 L of gear oil
1 oil filter
1 fuel filter
2 o-rings for the oil level plug and gear oil drain screw
Cotter pin for propeller
Fogging oil with a long straw (the spark plugs are inset a long way in)
Marine grease

In terms of tools:
14mm socket for the engine oil drain plug
Large flathead screwdriver for the gear oil drain and level plugs
Small flathead screwdriver for draining the vapor separator
Phillips screwdriver for removing the spark plug cover
Pump for gear oil
Funnel for engine oil
Oil drain pan
Pliers for cotter pin on Prop
Prop wrench
Muffs
Grease gun

Process:
- hook up muffs
- run for 5 minutes on muffs to bring up to operating temperature
- drain engine oil
- replace oil filter
- put in 3.7 liters of engine oil
- drain and replace gear oil
- grease the grease nipples
- replace the fuel filter

I was a little nervous when the used gear oil looked milky in the oil pan. I figured I might nead a seal job. The oil looked clear when coming out of the lower unit. It turned out that good oil merely looks milky when on top of some crankcase oil that had been left in the oil pan - the brand new gear oil I was using looked milky as well when I poured the reminder left into the oil pan.

One questions this year which I will post next.
 
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pckeen

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Ok - so now the question. I have not yet had to replace the fuel filter, but I want to do this annually now. Does the clear fuel filter cartridge simply unscrew? I see from the parts diagram that there is both an O-ring and a filter - do I need to replace both?
 

pckeen

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So I worked this out - there was an o-ring on the new fuel filter. It simply unscrews from the cap, but it helps to unbolt the fuel filter assembly from the engine first. There were no videos online that I could locate showing how to do this, so I made one. Help it helps someone else. If you think I've done something wrong, let me know.

 
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