1985 Yamaha - Prec. Blend Troubleshooting

Big Keepers

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
293
I searched out as much as I could and read all 2,068+ of Rodbolt's threads on the topic of precision blend. My problem as others have had is the remote tank pump is not working. I disconnected the brown and blue from the pump to the remote sensor harness and jumped them to a battery. The small gears didn't move so I will replace that corroded POS. The previous owner of this engine had the remote tank in his bilge so everything is nice and dirty. How do I get that remote pump off the tank? The grommet behind it has something to do with it?

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I was out on July 4th and the warning buzzer went off, the red light came on and I was in the 2000 rpm hold. So I'm guessing all my sensors work. When I disconnect the remote tank sensor I get the yellow light on my tach. Emergency switch didn't work so I had to manually fill the main tank in a nice three foot chop on Long Island Sound. I made a bit of a mess :rolleyes:

I also tried using Cousinabe's quick troubleshooting technique to double check my oil tank sensors both main and remote. In a thread for 150 yam 2000 oil system Cousinabe said the following:
quick checks
at the remote connector check black(harness side) to engine block for continuity, check continuity black to black red (switch side) check 12V to block key on engine off.
engine tank, unplug the oil tank connector, check oil tank side with tank full blue/white to black,continuity, cut the tie strap and remove the water trap drain the oil into a clean container, when the level goes below the lower tank mark check the blue green to black, should have continuity.

My 1985 obviously has different colors on the engine tank wires. I have red, brown, black and white+blue stripe. They come out of the sensor and go into the plug on the side of the control module. Coming out of the bottom of the module are: Yellow+red stripe, Green+orange stripe, yellow, blue, black, brown and green. The main tank sensor has an H in the top meaning it sends the signal to go into failsafe and limit rpm's. There is no pink wire.

I wanted to check continuity on the main tank sensor and used the Seloc method of testing a diode. Float all the way up I get OL between the black and red wires. Float all the way down I get between OL and zero (I had 0.56ohms) and then float up I get the same. Remove leads and reconnect with float up I get OL again. That sensor should be good. Remote tank sensor I have continuity between the black and black+red stripe leads with a full tank of oil. I assume that sensor is good as well. I just want to make sure I don't have two problems.

Step three I attached my multimeter to the brown and blue leads coming to the remote tank and flipped the emergency switch. I read almost 12v on the meter. My guess is that unit works too.

I'll be ordering a new remote tank pump and filter tomorrow. I noticed in the lower cowling and inside the remote tank some black blobs of stuff that almost looked like paint chips. I guess this is what happens when two cycle oil gets old or something? On my main tank I don't see a water trap or a filter anywhere. What stops this stuff from getting into the engine oil pump? I should probably clean that crap out too?

Did I miss anything? Comments please.
 
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