Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

[Navy Jr.]

I noticed in the Yamaha website under their in-line 4-strokers that the 115hp and 150hp features a device to flush the motor without the need to run the engine. Cool!!

Does anyone have this feature? How does it work? Like it?

 

[angler53]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

I noticed in the Yamaha website under their in-line 4-strokers that the 115hp and 150hp features a device to flush the motor without the need to run the engine. Cool!!

Does anyone have this feature? How does it work? Like it?

My F150 has it and I like it. You don't run the motor while using it. I have to use a muff in conjunction with the flush tube to run it. I flush mine 15 minutes after each use of the boat.

 

[yamamarinetech40]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

This is a useful feature for some people, like if they keep the boat in a lift over water and can't reach foot....but you should always flush with engine running if possible....you can use the hose attachment while running engine....you have to open the thermostats to rinse them, etc....

 

[mdunn]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

I'm a long ways from being an expert but I feel better using the muffs and letting them run a little while. I have the F115 and an 8 hp 4 stroke that also has the hose attachment.
I actually use the hose attachment when I first get back home for about 15 minutes on both motors while I'm doing other stuff then attach the muffs and run them both for maybe 10 minutes.
I don't know for sure if I'm doing the right thing but it feels right.

 

[Navy Jr.]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

I guess what appealed to me about the "no need to run engine" feature is that I wouldn't have to annoy the entire neighborhood when flushing the engine. Its basically just a perception that since the engine exhaust is out of the water that the noise would be pretty bad. Some guys use a big 55 gallon drum to stick the prop into, but like most I won't be doing that.

Just how noisy is your 150hp when using muffs?

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

my F150 like my 175 E-TEC is very quiet out of the water, way quieter than my neighbors leaf blower.
if my neighbors cant stand the noise of 5 min of run time on the muffs during normal hours then they should buy ear plugs.
course when they wind me up I can always do a full power run with my Dynomometer been known to do it.

 

[Casaburt]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

Hey Tech40. How do we open the tstats to do that? I would like to try that.
Casa

 

[yamamarinetech40]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

They open themselves when you get the engine's temp up to about 125-140 deg. F, depending on engine.....all you have to do is run engine.

 

[angler53]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

The water has been shallow and muddy down here. I run the motor until its peeing warm water every other outing to be sure to get that mud out.

 

[kkilloy]

From Yamaha's Website, Nuff Said

From Yamaha's Website, Nuff Said

Question

May I run the engine while using the integral Freshwater Flush adapter on my engine?

Answer

No. The convenient integral Freshwater Flush adapter has been designed for flushing of critical components without running the engine. The Freshwater Flush adapter was not designed to provide adequate cooling water, so the engine can be damaged from overheating. See "May I start the engine out of water?" for more information.

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/faq/viewfaqanswer/14/10/43/home.aspx

 

[lifeisfun]

Re: From Yamaha's Website, Nuff Said

Re: From Yamaha's Website, Nuff Said

Just to add to the confusion
http://bbcboards.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=99872

I spoke with a guy named Mark at Yamaha Corp. in Atlanta, GA and here is what he says is the official answer about how to properly flush a Yamaha engine.
If the engine has a flush adapter and your water source has enough pressure to cause a stream of water to discharge from the cowling drain (pee hole), then it is fine to run the engine on the flush adapter only, but it's limited to 1500 RPM max and no longer than 15 minutes. This also ensures adequate water for water pump lubrication.

If the overheat horn sounds or you cannot get enough pressure for water to flow from the cowling drain hole, you are required to use BOTH the flush adapter and a lower unit flush adapter simultaneously. Additionally, you should never start the engine out of the water until you have allowed adequate time for the engine block and lower unit to fill with water and start draining out. If water is draining out of the lower unit, it is in fact lubricating the water pump.

Please don't assume that I'm trying to tell you how to maintain your engine, just merely trying to alleviate all the ambiguity surrounding this issue. I shared with him that their technical data (Owners Manual) is inconsistent, but he had no response. I hope this helps

 

[pine island fred]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

Got the boat back in the water today. I pulled the new stat and was not happy with what I saw. Looked like all that rinsing I have been doing was a waste of time. So when I got the boat on the lift I ran the engine at idle, 700 rpm for 15 mins. using the hose flush fitting. Maby I burned up my new impeller, should know soon.
Neighbor has a V-6 rude of early 90s vintage that the owners manual says he can run the engine while flushing on the hose fitting. Not an engineer on outboards but if YAMAHA wants you to think you are really flushing the motor and doing any good if you dont run it, they are insulting yours and mine intelligence. No way that fresh water will circulate thru the block. Was going to drill a small hole in the stat disk to allow some water to bleed thru and do some good but decided to take a chance and trust the previous post saying you could run and thereby heat the engine.
Will certainly post the results when I find out. Would be nice if YAMAHA would post some info on there sales site and clear up the confusion. FRED

 

[andymach23]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

Interested to hear how you get on with this Fred. Do you run with the engine tilted up or down?

As I keep my boat in a marina I would have to have my F80 fully tilted. Just wondering if it is ok to run the motor fully tilted?

Thanks

Andy

 

[Pez Vela]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

Noise is not an issue while running/flushing an F150 with "muffs" while it is out of the water. Yamaha refers to muffs as a "flushing attachment" in the manual. Don't be confused with the "garden hose connector" which is an external component of the motor itself. Never run the motor out of the water using only the garden hose connector unless you want to invite disaster. It comes in handy to flush the powerhead while your boat is still in the saltwater ... say in the slip ... or if you want to do a "quick and dirty" flush on the trailer without starting up.

Your question got me wondering ...What difference does it make in Minneapolis-Saint Paul?

 

[lifeisfun]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

I used the garden connector just this weekend ( 2007 F60)
The tail was pissing like a race horse ( way more than on the water)
and water was also streaming everywhere on the bottom.
I doubt that there can be damage done idling the motor this way
while flushing or testing ...

 

[angler53]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

My yamaha owners manual says to flush "the power unit" with the garden hose connector for 15 minutes after every outing. So thats what I do.
It says starting/running the motor while connected to the garden hose connector will cause damage to the water pump and overheating can occur.
The only problem I have with this is not remembering to re-connecting the hose fitting back to the motor. I have done this a few times. I make it a practice to look to make sure I have a pee stream as soon as I start up. That way I'm not reminded with the overheat alarm. Done that too.
I try to remember to check the oil level once I pull out but I forget sometimes, so, I flush it with the muff just to heat it up to check the oil. I learned that the above normal oil level readings came from the oil draining out of the filter after it cooled. You get the best reading just after shut down when its hot.

 

[zzzzz]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

AndyMach23 = DO NOT run motor with it tilted up...the oil level in the crankcase will NOT be correct and the oil pump may not be submerged in oil

 

[andymach23]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

AndyMach23 = DO NOT run motor with it tilted up...the oil level in the crankcase will NOT be correct and the oil pump may not be submerged in oil

Ok, thanks for the advice.

Andy

 

[pine island fred]

Re: Yamaha fresh water flush on newer engines

This subject has really got me interested. First observation was that I really was not flushing the block when using the hose. I removed the thermostat and water rushed thru the block out the housing opening. Engine not running!
Figured out that no water will circulate thru the block with the stat installed and the engine not hot, as the cool hose water will instantantly close the stat. How do I get the engine to get hot to open the stat without running it? Answer is you cant, you are wasting your time. Sure, you are flushing the exhaust portion of the motor but only semi rinsing the power head as the pressure built up before the stat will only let the water rise so far in the block with no circulation. Just like replacing a radiator in a car, filling it with water and wondering where all the water went after you heated the engine.
What I am doing now is running the engine at idle with the hose feed. I am hoping the combination of water weight at Point 43 lbs per ft. plus whatever press. the hose puts out will feed enough water back down the pipe to cool and lubricate the impeller. I will sure post the results as I gain experience.
Other options I can see is running the engine in the saltwater with the hose connected fitted. Maby the hose, although it feeds into a 1/4 in. hose will provide enough pressure to keep the saltwater from circulation up at idle.
Other option I am considering is drilling a 1/4 hole or two 5/32 holes in the stat disk to allow some circulation when flushing but not running. Will take a longer time for the engine to hit operating temp. but the elimination of salt when flushing would be worth it. Have seen some UGLY results of salt.
As for running the motor on the hose with the unit tilted up, I figure if you can get the water pickup out of the water and it still be in the TRIM position not the TILT, why not? Hopefully YAMAHA designed the oil pick up to work in the full TRIM up position. NOT TILT!!! Just my thoughts FRED

 

[andymach23]

Using the lower unit flusher with the leg submerged

Using the lower unit flusher with the leg submerged

Interesting points Fred!

I keep my boat in a salt water marina.

With my F40, I tried flushing my motor with the normal lower leg flushing attachment, with the motor in the fully down position, running at idle and the hose on. I tasted the tell-tale and it stayed 'fresh' without a hint of salt, the whole time. It seems like the fresh water pressure from the hose kept the salt water out.

This isn't so practical though as you have to lean out over the back of the boat to slide the flusher onto the lower leg intakes.

I haven't tried this on my F80 on my new boat but might try it as the flow out of the tell-tale is pathetic when using the built in engine block flusher.

Thanks

Andy