Hi folks. Back again. After getting my new ignition switch wired up, I am on to my next step in checking things out. If these questions seem stupid, please bare with me, as I am learning as I go. Now, the boat is a sea nymph with a suzuki dt65 and a na12s remote control unit. I have one light-up gauge on the dash that shows oil level, reverse, and water. When I turn the boat on, the red water light on dash gauge stays on and the horn in the remote goes off. Just to fill in the blanks, I had the boat out 2 weeks ago, and everyhting was working fine. I had it running full throttle for about, lets say 40 minutes to an hour. The red water light was on as well, but I noticed no reduction in rpm's or overheating, or anything else to make me think there was a water/cooling problem. ( I mean, eventually the engine would have got real hot and worse case scenario froze up. That would have sucked) Now, after putting in new ignition switch, the warning buzzer is now hooked up properly, as it was not even hooked up before. That would explain it going of every couple seconds now. But why? I ran water to lower unit with some muffs, and water was dis-charging out the lower unit and the discharge hole. I also disconnected the warning float (this model has the float sensor mounted into the cylinder head). Now, the float worked good, and when I would lift it up, the red light would go off, so I know it's not electrical. I even left it off to see if water was getting to it, and this is were I got stumped. No water came out from the hole where the float switch was, and there was no indication of water either. I am thinking that water wouldnt get to the cylinders until the thermostat opened up, right? When the engine reached temp. enough for it to open up. I didnt run it long because I was afraid that it wasnt getting water. But thinking about it now, I went out that two weeks ago and everyhting was fine, and the light was still on. Now, maybe by disconnecting it I freed something up...but here's where I get stumped. If the warning light is set off by a float in the cylinder head, and water doesnt come in until thermostat opens up, it doesnt seem to make sense to have the setup for the warning switch like that. otherwise, the water warning light would stay on until engine heated up enough. So, it makes more sense logically, that water isnt getting to the float, thus the head. But then wouldnt I have burnt the engine out running it for an hour at full rpms two weeks ago? I guess, basically, is there a way to make sure without pulling the lower unit to check the impeller (which is a pain in the *** to get off). And besides, I just had it serviced over winter and a new one put in. If worse comes to worse, I can bring the boat back into the shop...but first, I like trying to troubleshoot and first wanna see what you folks out there might have to say. Iis there maybe something I am overllooking, like I guess if I knew for sure whether water was or was not supposed to be flowing through the head until thermostat opened up, this would proabbly be a good start. Thanks.
