Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

[atmunshi]

My fuel primer bulb went flat on the water yesterday. It just stayed flat and would only let me go about 30 percent of the speed. When we squeezed the bulbe, as much as we could, we would go faster. When we shut it down, the bulb regain shape (air?) and we could flat out fly across the lake until it went flat again, about 2-3 minutes later. What can cause that? Help if you can! ! !

 

[Knightgang]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

Sounds like it could be one of wo possiblities.<br />1. Is your tank vented? If so, are the vents open. It sounds like the fuel iis pulling a vaccum in the tank and sucking the bulb flat. Once the fuel draw has stopped and the system has had enough time to draw air back into it, you are in business for a short time.<br />2. You could just have a bad bulb. Does the bulb ever get "HARD" when it is primed up. If not, then the valves inside could be bad and not holding the fuel at the proper pressure.<br /><br />I would replace the bulb, and check to be sure the tank vents are open. Let us know if it helps.<br /><br />Any other ideas guys???<br /><br />Knightgang

 

[atmunshi]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

Thanks, Knightgang. The bulb is new, as is new spark plugs. The fuel filter is between the bulb and the gas tank. This is the first time we ran it with this new bulb. The last bulb never seemed to get tight and it seemed that it would leak down. This one is just a little bit smaller than the last one. But the vacuum is really tight. I'll try your suggestions and get back with you.

 

[jim dozier]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

Since the problem started with the installation of a new bulb check that first. Have you installed it in the proper direction? The bulbs have 1-way check valves in each end and if you install them backwards they will try to suck fuel from the engine and put it in the tank when you pump them. If that isn't the problem you must have a restriction between the bulb and the tank, the fuel filter is a prime suspect. If not that check the fuel strainer in the tank and the tank vent as Knightgang suggested.

 

[atmunshi]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

Thank you both for your advice. I replaced the fuel primer bulb and chaecked the vent on the fuel tank. We went back out and noticed the bulb was much tighter, but the boat still ran slower after a few minutes at full throttle. When we came in,we removed the fuel pickup tube from the gas tank and noticed it was extremely hard to suck through. There is a small ball bearing in the tube that allows suction from the tank, but does not allow a reverse flow. Is this something we can just clean out - or do we need to buy another pickup tube? Also, it seems that gas flows out of the hole on the side of the 2nd carb. Please follow up.

 

[jim dozier]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

It depends on what is clogging the ball bearing and its seat. If its rust on the ball or the seat, you'll probably need to replace it. If its just dirt or crud you may be able to clean it with carb cleaner and compressed air. You'll know if you've succeeded if it works right when you're done. After you get that fixed you may need to look at the carb. The float valve is supposed to prevent fuel from running out the carb throat. Yours may be sticking and in need of replacment.

 

[DJ]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

atmunshi,<br /><br />You found your problem. That is an anti siphon valve.<br /><br />You can remove it, for testing purposes ONLY.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

hello<br /> some fuel withdrawl tubes have a screen inside the tube that will clog. all the fuel primer doies is prefill the carbs and engine fuel pump. it is not designed nor will it stay hard while the engine is running. it is afterall on the suction side of the fuel pump. therefor if there is a resriction between the primer bulb and the gas in the tank what happens? ohhhh the bulb just sucked flat. dont keep running the motor with this condition unless you really like to replace pistons. as far as the gas dribble. you also have a carb needle valve problem. either you have squeezed the bulb and damaged the needle or you have some trash in the seat area.this is an easy fix. find the restriction in the line and drawtube. clean the carbs. go boating.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[atmunshi]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

Thanks, All. An update - it was the anti-siphon valve and the dirty carbs. All of you are top notch marine experts! Thanks for the forum. I took apart the carbs and cleaned all of the jets. The good news - it ran like a top - when it ran. The bad news - the remote control box tore apart and I had to "gerry rig" it to get it started. Now I have several other set of questions. I would like to start a new post, but I'll add my comments here. Maybe someone can answer me and give me proper forum etiquette. The key to the remote control box stopped turning over the engine and would not rotate the starter. Inside the control box, a metal piece broke off of the throttle. The boat was unable to start until I manually started it like you would a car with a bad starter. When it did get started, it ran in gear (it would not start in neutral). It would not go into neutral at all - even when the control arm was raised straight up vertically! I may not be adding enough details and may need to start a new thread. Any thoughts? HELP!!!

 

[bossee]

Re: Suzuki DT140 Fuel Primer Bulb

Hi atmunshi,<br />Personally I would start a new post on this (electrical?) problem.<br /><br /> You wrote:<br />The key to the remote control box stopped turning over the engine and would not rotate the starter. <br /><br />Is it a "NA12S" remote control box? (I had a Suzuki DT65, 1991, before with a NA12S)<br /><br /> Inside the control box, a metal piece broke off of the throttle. <br /><br />I guess you can buy spare parts... check with a Suzuki service center.<br /><br /> The boat was unable to start until I manually started it like you would a car with a bad starter. <br /><br />I would check with a Multimeter that You have continuity (ohm) with the various electrical wires in the ignition switch. Could be fault with switch itself or the wires from switch to engine. <br /><br /> When it did get started, it ran in gear (it would not start in neutral). It would not go into neutral at all - even when the control arm was raised straight up vertically!<br /><br />Do You mean the control arm on the outboard (not the arm in the control box)?<br />Try disconnect the gear rod end from geararm on the outboard and then (with battery leads diconnected so the engine can not start by accident) move the geararm with your hand back and forward a little while turning the propeller sligtly clock- and anticlockwise until it "clicks" in neutral. The propeller will turn easy now in any direction and you know it is in neutral. There is also a "neutral start switch" in the control box (at least on NA12S) that maybe has something to do wth the problem. There are some fuses also but I do not know exactly where thay are since I do not have wiring diagram, but I guess it is best to check them also.<br />I suggest You get a Seloc or Clymer manual (does not cost much) that cover Your DT140 (1983) so You can get the wiring diagram etc to help troubleshoot easier.<br /><br />Good luck!<br />/Bo