Is it just a carb issue?

mach158

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Aug 12, 2017
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3
I am repairing a 1990 Yamaha V4 115 2 stroke (115 ETLD) for my parents and need to confirm I am on the right track or if I need to look into something else.

Original issue, out on the water and the engine would not stay running unless at high RPM's, just did not want to idle after initial startup. Ran fine for about a minute in the water then struggled to stay running at idle and was hard to start. Boat was just purchased so they have no history of the engine other then the guy supposedly used it yearly and even took it out of state for fishing tournaments.

Seemed like a fuel issue aka carb problem. Took the carbs off and cleaned them up, new kits in them and reinstalled them. Started it on the muffs and after about 30-45 seconds of running good it started to have a pretty hard cough that seems like it could be from one cylinder misfiring maybe and it would cause the engine to either stall or come pretty close. I tried elevating the RPM's at in the 2,000-2,500 rpms it still seems to have a miss to it.

After some searching it points to being a lean idle sneeze/cough. I drained the old gas and put fresh in in case that was an issue. New fuel filters as well. Plugs are new. Have the trip on the water and my run time on them. Compression is good, 120 PSI in all cylinders. I also installed a new fuel pump.

Since I can get the engine to run fine for approx. 30-45 seconds then it has the cough that can stall the engine or come very close. When it stalls the engine I have a really hard time getting it to restart. To get the engine to run fine again I need to let it sit for approx. 30 minutes then I can get another good 30-45 seconds out of it.

Is this still a lean sneeze issue and I should tear apart the carbs again in case the old fuel plugged something again? Is it possible I have a bigger issue? Should I look into a timing issue? Ignition issue?

I'm pretty fluent in automotive engine repair but have limited experience in outboards but I do have the manual for this engine if timing needs to be checked as hopefully it explains the process.
 

ClassicAQ

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 2, 2017
Messages
78
When you pulled the carbs for cleaning and installation of new kits did you also remove and clean all jets from each carb? After cleaning jets you want to be able to hold it up to light and see right through it before reinstalling.

Did you time and sync carbs after reinstalling? This needs to be done whenever you remove/install carbs. Usually the linkage won't need to be adjusted. However, when jets are pulled, cleaned, and reinstalled, the engine will run differently compared to prior to cleaning jets. So the idle mix screw (a.k.a. fuel adjustment screw) will need to be adjusted. I'm not positive of the spec turn-out for your engine. I have the same engine, mine a 1998. So perhaps it's the same spec which is 5/8 +/- 1/4 turn out. That's used just as a starting point for adjustment.

Seat the idle speed screw just enough to crack open the throttle plates. Turn in all 4 idle mix screws, noting how many turns it takes to gently seat needle. Then turn each screw out 5/8. Start engine and let it run long enough to warm up (if it won't stay running turn screws in or out 1/4). These adjustments need be made on a warm engine. Then start on one carb, turn in or out the idle mix screw, just a 1/4 turn a time. See how the engine reacts. If it starts sputtering, turn the screw the opposite direction 1/2 turn. See how it reacts. Then do the same for the other 3 carbs. Once the engine is liking where you have the idle mix screw, fine tune the rpms to spec by turning in/out the idle speed screw. 1/8 turn a time. Rpm spec for your engine is 750 +/- 50. However, I've found my engine likes idling around 550-600.
 

mach158

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Aug 12, 2017
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Finally got back to working on this last night. Yes I did all steps per the manual, which is the OEM one and not an aftermarket one. Turns out the carbs just like to have the idle screws out further then the spec calls for. Spec is 5/8th +/-, mine likes to run a 1.5 turns out. Pending a cold start this morning to see how it starts all should be done and hopefully they can get the boat on the water and see how it does.
 

vroom ZOOM

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2017
Messages
376
running good for a minute and then dies... you could be running out of fuel in the carbs.at high rpms the pumps is working hard so it gives you the fuel you need. it looks like an issue to the fuel supply for the carbs rather than the carbs themselves. if it was the carb you would have problems starting. 30 minutes to let it start again could be a severe fuel flow restriction to the carbs or the time it takes the engine to cool down, which could be a more seroius problem
 

mike_i

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 28, 2017
Messages
881
Whats the condition of the primer bulb when the motor starts to die?
 
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