Repairing deep scratches in 2014 Suzuki DF140 Cowl

sgtsdj

Cadet
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
6
I am new to the forum and I have couple questions about repairing scratches in my cowl. While fishing on the ICW last week, I was anchored under a bridge out of the main channel. A large yacht came rolling thru, with no regard for others, casting off a 2-3 ft. wake. I knocked me loose and caused my motor to rub up on the bridge concrete. And broke a new custom made rod that was in a rod holder. My motor cowling was scratched pretty good on one side. :mad: I searched on the internet and thought I could fix it myself. Since the cowl is molded I began the process of removing the decal and then sanding out the scratched with various grit sandpaper both dry(to start) and 800 thru 2000 wet. All scratches are gone but I have what I call sanding clouds left . Whitish rings around the areas sanded. I've tried rubbing compound but they are still there, I've attached a photo. Any and all advice and help is greatly appreciated, I'm working on the picture. I can't get it to upload.
jpeg;base64,
 
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sgtsdj

Cadet
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
6
I apologize for my previous obscure post. I tried to copy and paste a picture. So I am re-posting it:

I am new to the forum and I have couple questions about repairing scratches in my cowl. While fishing on the ICW last week, I was anchored under a bridge out of the main channel. A large yacht came rolling thru, with no regard for others, casting off a 2-3 ft. wake. I knocked me loose and caused my motor to rub up on the bridge concrete. And broke a new custom made rod that was in a rod holder. My motor cowling was scratched pretty good on one side.
mad.gif
I searched on the internet and thought I could fix it myself. Since the cowl is molded I began the process of removing the decal and then sanding out the scratched with various grit sandpaper both dry(to start) and 800 thru 2000 wet. All scratches are gone but I have what I call sanding clouds left . Whitish rings around the areas sanded. I've tried rubbing compound but they are still there, I've attached a photo. Any and all advice and help is greatly appreciated, I'm working on the picture. I can't get it to upload.
 
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mjf55

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
462
sgtsdj, Welcome to iBoats. The reason you could not post a picture yet is that you need 3 posts to post. You are now at that number of posts. Here is a link to a tutorial how to post in iBoats. The best way is a link from photobucket (free account).
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum...pload-tutorial

Can you edit your first post and remove the aborted picture paste?

Once you post the photo, we can advise you for a repair.

What kind of compound did you use?
 

sgtsdj

Cadet
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
6
No Title

Here is a picture of my issue. I'm not sure how to delete my first post.
 

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sgtsdj

Cadet
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
6
I'm using Mequires compounds. The ring is what has me worrying. I have not used a power buffer yet.
 

mjf55

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 17, 2014
Messages
462
In for a penny, in for a pound. I am not sure you can recover plastics shine ( I assume plastic as you said it is molded).
Since you started, you will need to use a variable speed polisher, not a random orbital one. There is one here on iBoats, or a knock off one in harbour freight.
Use the compound, and when that is all done, use a polisher then wax.
Search for "maine sail buffing tips". It was written to polish a hull, but should be applicable here.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,585
Okay I can now actually open this thread. Yesterday it wouldn't open for a long time and then if it did, I saw that gobblygook, as GA_Boater so eloquently stated.

So now after reading the thread and seeing the picture, I think you are in for more then some simple wet sanding and polishing now. The reason is because you already cut through the finish and into the subsurface. So you now have to refinish the cowl. But that isn't as hard as you may think. You stated that you removed the decals. Do you have new ones to reapply? Either way, you need to now sand the entire cowl. That is a better idea then trying to spot refinish in my book.

Sand the entire cowl to a 600 or 800 consistency and you will be prepped for priming and top coat. If you seriously want a amazingly shiny finish, then you need to apply a primer now and then wet sand and looking for pits, scratches and what ever imperfections you can see or feel. Once you are satisfied with that primer finish, then you need to spray the top coat.

You can get the top coat in a one step finish or a base coat with clear coats. That is up to you. I like base coat and top clear coats myself but to each their own.

You can get the color match at most any auto paint shop and you will need about a pint. Then spray the paint and make sure you get very good coverage, but not all at one time. Multiple coat are always better then one thick coat. Multiple coats also helps to keep from getting runs. Once you have the paint finished, then you start with the polishing compounds. And you will be amazed how well it will look.

If you would like to see that entire process and how it works and comes out, click on the '76 Johnson rebuild link below where I did exactly that. It is really a lot easier then you may think. JMHO
 

sgtsdj

Cadet
Joined
Sep 18, 2016
Messages
6
Thanks to everyone for your help and input. Esp. to GA_Boater for taking care of the "Gobblygook" :laser: I didn't think it would be as easy a fix as first told.
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
There's no recovery from the sanding, you removed the paint and primer, so there's nothing to buff back to a shine. From here on out its a re-paint situation.
 
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