No Spark unless coil is connected directly to battery

[therl]

Points, plugs, wires, dwell, and timing all new / set. The boat was running very well for awhile but we were cruising along and about the same time I hit a wave the boat lost power then died. We dropped anchor and swam for awhile then the boat started when we tried it again. Headed back home and the boat started losing power again at higher speed. I slowed down and we got all the way back to the dock with no problems. The boat hasn't started since then. After researching the problem I read something about a bad kill switch and connecting the coil directly to the battery to test. Now I think I misunderstood the post - I don't think I have a kill switch - but when I put an alligator clip from the coil to the battery it started as soon as I touched the key. So, does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong that would apparently be keeping the coil from getting power? I guess that's what's going on. If I have that wrong just let me know what else it could be.

 

[gm280]

Certainly would l like to help you out, but we will need the type engine, model, make. year and other specifics. We have no idea what you have with the problem... :noidea:

 

[therl]

83 Bayliner 19Ft AQ125 / 270

 

[alldodge]

83 Bayliner 19Ft AQ125 / 270

Looks like you have points, have you replaced the condenser and rechecked the points. If the points starting closing it would not restart

 

[therl]

Thanks AllDodge. I have not rechecked those things but this is the first time on the water since having the timing and dwell pretty much on the money. If it were the points or condenser would jumping the + side of the coil with the battery make it start? I'm not 100% sure how it all works so I'd like to make sure that makes sense before I start tearing things apart. Also, does it sound like an electronic ignition set solve my problems anyway? I would have done that rather than buying the distributor parts the last time if I had known it was an option. If it sounds like that will fix me I'll just go straight to that instead of messing with points and dwell again. Any opinions on Accuspark?

 

[alldodge]

Going from the battery to the coil bypasses the ballast resistor. When turning the key to start, the key does the same thing when all is working normally. By jumping it directly I was wondering if anything may be loose, hence the reason to check the settings. For the motor to loose power and run rough for me, I thinking either a bad connection going to the coil (12V, ground or ballast resistor), or the coil may be going out.

The ballast resistor is the purple wire going to the coil.

IMO electronic ignition is better then points but a maintained point system should have no issues, other then maybe point bounce at high rpm.

 

[therl]

Thank you. I will try to get out there this weekend to check it out. I have seen mention of the ballast resistor. The pictures I saw were of a white ceramic looking block but I couldn't find one on my boat. So it's built into the wire? Can that go bad?

 

[alldodge]

Yes the resistor is in the wire, they can go bad but in most cases the terminal lug corrodes and there is no connection. Keep in mind there should be two wires on the positive terminal of the coil, the purple/white wire has no resistance and the other is purple and has resistance. The purple/white comes from the starter, the purple comes from the engine harness. When cranking you should have direct 12V going to the coil (just like when you jumper to the battery). Once started the 12V goes to the coil thru the purple wire and voltage is dropped to about 9V.

Check your wiring

 

[bruceb58]

With points closed and ignition on, measure the voltage at the positive side of the coil to the engine ground.