Volvo Penta 5.7 Gi fuel pump problem

AbelVar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
10
Hello all. I am new to the posting world and I could sure use some help. I am having trouble with one of my Volvo Penta 5.7 Gi electric fuel pumps (sorry I can't seem to find the SR on the engines). As I have been reading some of the posts it appears this is not new. It started with attempting to start the engine. I noted right away there was no beep beep and the fuel pump did not run to prime. After checking things out I found that the connectors on the fuel pumps were very corroded. I decided to be safe rather than sorry and replaced the fuel pump system. When I try and start the engine with the new system installed first it went beep beep but no fuel pump noise. the next time I turned the key it did not beep beep and the fuel pump was turning on and off (short bursts). The third time it stopped working at all. I don't have a device to check for any codes (going to get one though). The batteries are charged I have cleaned most of the connections and I tried switching the relays. The starter turns nicely. The only other thing I noticed is that the oil pressure gauge indicates about 20 with the key in the on position. If at all possible can anyone suggest a troubleshooting path. I have looked at the schematics and I can see some of the things to look at but I am unsure what the control unit is doing making it difficult to troubleshoot.
 

AbelVar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
10
Thank you for the quick response. It is 7 am here so I am having my coffee (can't move without the coffee). I did kind of do the checks as described already but I am unsure of the results. I am getting 12.4 volts at the fuel pump fuse when I put the positive end of the volt meter in what I believe is the input side of the fuse and touch the ground side of the meter to the engine block. I expected to get the same 12.4 volts when I moved the negative lead to the other side of the fuse holder but there was nothing there. This is of course with the fuse removed and the key on. I was guessing that it is probable that the control circuit is controlling the ground to turn on the fuel pump for a few seconds then removes it. If that is true then ??? I am going to go out and do the tests again as suggested in the link you provided. Thank you again for the guidance.
 

AbelVar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
10
Ok so I pulled the fuel pump relay and I checked from engine ground to 86 (C) and there was 12.9 volts (???) had my assistant turn the key to the on position and I had the same 12.9 volts. Did the same thing for 30 (A) and got the same result 12.9 volts (key off or on). Tested 30 (A) to 85 (D) nothing in volts or ohms in either key off or on. I am guessing these are not the results I should have expected???
 

AbelVar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
10
I was able to get to the serial tag and record the serial number (4012058617) of the engine. The Volvo Penta web site says my engine is a 5.7Gi-BF manufactured 2001 - 2003. The only wiring schematic for the 5.7Gi I was able to find is in Seloc Volvo Penta 1992-02 manual. The problem is that the schematic indicates it is good for 5.7Gi engines 1994 -96 sooooo I don't know if it is accurate. Does any body know where I can get the correct schematic? The schematic I have indicated that pin 86 on the fuel pump relay should be ground but I am defiantly getting 12.9 volts there. I have checked that point with the fuel pumps connected and disconnected and got the same results. With the relay removed I do not see any other connection that could cause what should be the ground that is used to actuate the relay solenoid and go to the fuel pumps. If the schematic is correct then that means I have a positive connected to my ground and the ground is open. I guess that is possible but I am hoping it is the schematic. Help Please
 

magarmuch

Cadet
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
15
No Title

I have a 5.0Gi, year 1999. I used the attached wiring diagram to trouble shoot my wiring problems. I had similar problems as you, my fuel pumps would not come on once I switched on the ignition, In my case the wires going to the fuel and ignition relay looked OK externally but were corroded internally by salt water. The relays were also bad. I cut the bad portion of the wires (5 in) and changed the relays to waterproof ones from Amazon. Good luck.
 

Attachments

  • photo225128.jpg
    photo225128.jpg
    134.3 KB · Views: 37
  • photo225129.jpg
    photo225129.jpg
    82.8 KB · Views: 25

AbelVar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
10
Update - I have been able to find the correct schematic (just today) for my engine (good news part). Unfortunately this has lead me to the ECM. I am now attempting to determine were to buy the correct test equipment to test the ECM. The very helpful gentleman at iboats have helped me determine my ECM should be a 3862865. I am now trying to find the correct test equipment to insure it is actually the ECM at fault and not something feeding the ECM. Any suggestions/recommendations.

Thank you to all that have responded.
 

AbelVar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
10
Another quick update - I got online an did a quick search for the test equipment and found there was a link back to iboats. Back in 20012 there was a person that had many of the same questions I had. He recommended [FONT=&quot]OBD Diagnostics, Inc. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]PO Box 2002 [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2121 Ruhland Ave.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Redondo Beach, CA 90278
(310) 793 2410[/FONT]


I spoke with Ken and it turns out the test systems may not indicate if there is an out going problem like no ground going to the electronic fuel pump. The good (actually great) news is they will bench test the ECM (MIFI) at their location ($60.00). So I am going to send it to them. They also say in some cases they can fix some things usually for less than $200.00. If it is bad I can buy a new one from them. All in one shopping,,, love it! I will follow up again when I have more information.

Thank you people that take the time. It is very much appreciated. Here in Alaska getting marine service can sometime be difficult.
 

magarmuch

Cadet
Joined
May 26, 2015
Messages
15
No Title

Before spending money you should check continuity from the ECM to the relays. ECM's are very reliable, they rarely fail, this is what I discovered when I was researching my problems.
 

Attachments

  • photo225156.jpg
    photo225156.jpg
    113 KB · Views: 22
  • photo225157.jpg
    photo225157.jpg
    145.6 KB · Views: 23

AbelVar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
10
Thank you magarmuch. As it is right now I did check to make sure there was voltage to the ECM and that the grounds were good. I also checked (ohmed) the connection to the ECM from the relay. With voltage to the CEM and good grounds there was no voltage (or ground for that matter) at the relay so I pulled the ECM and shipped it to OBD. It got there today so I am guessing I will hear from them next Tues or so. I did find an interesting manual along the way that I would like to share though.

https://www.bakesonline.com/images/MediaLibrary/Indmar_MEFI4manual.pdf

Some really good stuff it here. I especially like the trouble shooting section and the information on how things work.
 

AbelVar

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Messages
10
I got the bad news that my MIFI-4 is bad. Voltage in but nothing out which is what I saw here too. Lucky for me OBD has another one and they are shipping it out today ($900.00) with the same calibrations that the bad one has. Great service from OBD. I also purchased a test program for less than $200.00 that is specific to my MIFI-4. They recommend that I check all of my sensors because it is highly likely that there is a problem with one of them that caused this problem. All things go right and I should be up and running for the silver run in Aug..... Yaaaaa!
 
Top