Perplexing 5.7GSI PEFS Fuel Problem Wont start - good fuel pressure & clean injectors

nunnink23

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Perplexing 5.7GSI PEFS Fuel Problem Wont start - good fuel pressure & clean injectors

Hello all. I have a very perplexing problem, and hopefully somebody has some insight as to what I should check next, since I am out of options.

I have a 2000 248 Vista with a 5.7 GSI PEFS & DP-SM 195 drive. The boat ran great last year, but the oil pan rotted out so I ended the season early, and pulled the engine. While I had the engine out I did a mild overhaul, but didn't tear past the short block. I also sent out my injectors to be rebuilt, and when they returned I rebuilt my TBI.

Two weeks ago I dropped the engine in, aligned it, and bolted everything back up. Unfortunately it would not start. I went through the normal diagnostic procedure. I saw fuel spraying from both injectors, so I assumed it was an ignition problem. I double checked my firing order, and verified spark at each plug. This checked out, so I moved on to a compression test. I have 175 PSI at each cylinder, so the problem is not mechanical. Next I decided I would prime the engine with some fuel in the intake. I dumped a table spoon of fuel past the butterfly, and the engine fired up the second I turned the key. It continued to run until it ran out of the fuel I supplied it with.

At this point, I determined it was fuel related (the injectors either not flowing enough fuel per pulse, or not pulsing fast enough). First I checked fuel pressure, which is good @ 8 psi low & 30 psi high. I checked for vapor lock by bleeding the system multiple times, even though this should not exist. Then I decided to rebuild the TBI again just to be safe. New o-rings, diaphragm, gaskets, etc. This still provided the same result, that the engine will run if fuel is supplied, but not on its own fuel supply. At this point I do not think the problem lies in the fuel pump, as I have correct pressure, and it will fill up a coffee cup in 2 seconds if disconnected.

I tried disconnecting the TPS and MAP, with no change. separate fuel supply from a known clean source, no change. New water separator, no change.

The injectors appear to be firing rapidly, but that is a subjective observation. No leaks are present.

I am at the point where I am considering buying new injectors from Rock Auto just to rule them out.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=qbffopi7t2tsns21f0idk5k070

What am I missing here? I had a running engine in the fall, and still have a running engine (if you supply it fuel manually). The TBI itself is not leaking, and holds pressure. The last two things I can think of is the injectors themselves, or a computer problem.

For whats its worth, I have one wiring harness not plugged in to anything, but I have no idea where it goes. All the sensors are hooked up appropriately, and there are no other missing connections. I will take a picture later today, but I will describe it. There is a 32 pin connector which comes off the ECM, but it only has one pin in the whole connector, with a black wire leading into it. I then have a male 32 pin connector which plugs into it, and branches off into two separate two pin connectors (one male one female) with black wires. This connector has no power, and no apparent home. They are the exact same connector style as the fuel pump. Other than this, every single ground wire, connection, etc. is all spoken for. I also have an MEFI scan tool (basic style), and I can communicate with the ECM. Initially when I scanned it, I had many different codes, but I attribute this to all the times I tried disconnecting sensors and running the engine, and low voltage after cranking one afternoon. I cleared the codes to start fresh, and none have returned. I just have code 12 flashing in a loop.

I am at a loss. What should I do next? Buy a new set of injectors to rule it out? Then if that doesn't solve it, is there any input to the ECM that could case this to happen, or is the ECM itself bad? I have only had this boat for a year, but I am aware the ECM has been replaced before due to a failure three years ago. That is all the information I can dig up.

I will be forever in debt to anyone who can point me in the right direction.
 

nunnink23

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Apr 27, 2015
Messages
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Update from today:

Today a very strange thing happened. While inspecting the wiring harness I found that a connector, described as a slave connector in the manual, was broken. Shortly after discovering this, the engine sneezed on its own for the first time. This may be due to built up fuel from cranking while testing connections, but who knows.

Either way, I am attaching pictures of the broken connector, which links J1 and J2 to the DLC connector. It is marked as # 21 in the wiring diagram, with a yellow/green and orange/black. I will repair it tomorrow, but I don't think this could cause the problem I am having. It could possibly mask a fault code though right?

The second set of pictures attached is of the phantom wiring harness that I can't find a home for. I'm 99% sure it is unused, but I attached a picture of it either way. If anyone knows what this connector is for, please let me know.

My current plan is to have my injectors verified tomorrow at my Marina, who I didn't know rebuilt injectors. If they check out okay, and it still doesn't start after fixing that connection, I'm going to be even more lost. I have to read up on how to check injector pulse voltage. Does anyone have advice on how to verify that they are getting the correct voltage and pulses?


Next three pics are of the unused harness

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Next three pics are of the broken connection

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Dave-R

Chief Petty Officer
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Mar 18, 2008
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441
When someone is cranking the engine over, can you open the butterfly and see fuel from the injectors actually going down the throttle body? I think a lot of Volvo fuel pumps are powered from the starter when cranking, and from the alternator when running. If the battery has had the terminals connected backwards for even a second. It blows an inline diode that supplies the fuel pumps from the alternator when the engine is running. Maybe someone else could chime in also. When the engine ran with fuel dumped in the throttle body, sure sounds like the injectors are not delivering fuel. Also if your throttle is advanced to 100.% , it might think you have a flooded condition, and shut off the injectors.Dave-R
 

bruceb58

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 5, 2006
Messages
30,476
ECU controls the fuel pump. Alternator is involved for the injector power though.

You should hear the fuel pumps run for a moment after you turn the key on.
 

nunnink23

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Apr 27, 2015
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Thanks for the replies. Dave, I have verified that fuel is being sprayed both while cranking, or while running if supplemented with fuel. I also verified that it is not in anti flood mode by disconnecting the tps. It's not in safe mode ether since I have tried disconnecting the temp and/or oil pressure senders.

Bruce, the pumps do run, even while cranking. I checked fuel pressure under both conditions, and it is perfect. I did not know the alternator controls the injectors. I will double check my connections on the alternator tonight.
 

nunnink23

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From what I read, the ecm connects the injectors to ground in order to pulse them. I was trying to verify b+ voltage at the injectors, but I don't think k my volt meter can register such rapid pulsing. I was getting a 2.5 v reading while cranking when measuring at the injector connector, with my volt meter on the 20v scale.

Does anyone know how to test for b+ voltage at the injectors?
 

nunnink23

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My suggestion is to buy an OEM manual or go here and look at one.
http://boatinfo.no/lib/library.html#

Bruce,

I have been referencing the OEM manual on that website. I have not found a clear diagnostic procedure for the fuel injector leads. They say to check for B+ voltage at the injector lead, but they don't have much detail on a procedure.

The reading I get is around 2.5v while cranking, but that's probably because the injectors are pulsing too fast for my volt meter to respond. However, according to the diagram, the injectors have constant B+ voltage when the ignition is armed, and the ECM connects it to ground to pulse the injectors. If thats the case, should I be able to put a volt meter on the B+ wire, and the other to the engine ground to verify that 12.5 or so volts exists? This will probably complete the circuit and cause the injector to open if I used a jumper wire.
 

Tail_Gunner

Admiral
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Jan 13, 2006
Messages
6,237
And you have verifed that you have spark....Injectors are spraying while turning over,,,,,try and measure the voltage in the slave plug is the broken wire reading 5volt's...
 

nunnink23

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And you have verifed that you have spark....Injectors are spraying while turning over,,,,,try and measure the voltage in the slave plug is the broken wire reading 5volt's...


I will check that this evening, and hopefully fix the wire this evening. If I have my injectors back from the test I can try to start it again after fixing that wire.

I did verify spark in each cylinder, and the injectors are spraying while turning over, or while running (while being supplemented with extra fuel). I have no idea what a healthy injector flow/spray/frequency looks like, so I cant comment on their volume.
 

Tail_Gunner

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So the engine run's with extra fuel...when you rebuilt the tbi did you use the same spring for the pressure regulator or did you use a replacement kit?
 

nunnink23

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So the engine run's with extra fuel...when you rebuilt the tbi did you use the same spring for the pressure regulator or did you use a replacement kit?

Yup, I used the same spring, and a new diaphragm. Just to rule out the TBI, I rebuilt it a second time, soon to be a third since I took the injectors out again. It is not leaking either.

I saw most professional grade diagnostic tools are over $800. I hope I don't need one, but if I do, I would imagine it will hold some value when I sell this boat. Or better yet, I would get one that can be used on more modern engines too. Hopefully I can afford a 318 Vista in a few years with the big block Volvo's
 

Tail_Gunner

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The only thing i can think of short of replacement is checking the impedance of each injector about 1.5 ohms i believe.
 

nunnink23

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The only thing i can think of short of replacement is checking the impedance of each injector about 1.5 ohms i believe.


Short of replacing the injectors? Or the ECM? I am not very familiar with electronics, so I need to do some research tonight on what that means. Thank you for that tip though.

Do you think the marina will check that today? I took the injectors out and gave them to my marina, even though CFM Tech just rebuilt them. CFM is pretty well known for TBI work, so if by change there was a mistake I would be very surprised. I will report back when I hear back from them.

Still not sure how to properly test for the right voltage at my injector leads though.
 

nunnink23

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Test results are back, and my injectors are fine. The marina did every test they could on them. Now my worst fear is starting to look closer to being true. I am borrowing a noid light, but I don't think that will tell me anything special, because I know the injectors are spraying and pulsing. Hopefully the noid light wont activate unless it has 12 volts, which is the minimum my injectors should have according to my marina (who have been extremely helpful). Does anyone know what that 32 pin connector with one ground pin attached to it is? The one in the pics above which has no apparent home in my engine compartment?
 

nunnink23

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Test results are back, and my injectors are fine. The marina did every test they could on them.

Now my worst fear is starting to look closer to being true.

I am borrowing a noid light, but I don't think that will tell me anything special, because I know the injectors are spraying and pulsing. Hopefully the noid light wont activate unless it has 12 volts, which is the minimum my injectors should have according to my marina (who have been extremely helpful).

Does anyone know what that 32 pin connector with one ground pin attached to it is? The one in the pics above which has no apparent home in my engine compartment?
 

nunnink23

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Thanks for the MEFI info, I will go through it now. I tested my pulse with a noid light, and as expected since they spray fuel, the light flashes. However the flashing seems pretty dim, especially compared to that video. I am nearly 100% convinced its my ECM unfortunately. I fixed the broken master/slave connector, and after doing the noid light test, I wanted to read the codes again.

Yesterday I was trying to start the engine with nearly all the sensors disconnected at one point or another, so I expected some codes to appear. However I did not expect them to appear in the way they did. Here is what happened.

- Connect diagnostic tool and turn ignition on.
- Turn scan tool on and observe code 12 sequence three times, which indicates diagnostic capabilities are working.
- After three code 12's the first code which appeared was 43, indicated by 4 flashes, long pause, 3 flashes. This code was only repeated once, not the three times it is supposed to be repeated. Code 43 apparently exists in MEFI, but it is not in the VP EFI diagnostics manual.
- Next code 81 appeared, as indicated by 8 flashes, a long pause, then one flash. This code doesn't exist.
- Next code 18 appeared, one flash, long pause, eight flashes.

This kept on going in random order, to random codes, many of which I do not think exist. Unless I am misunderstanding the MEFI code reading procedure using the Rinda CodeMate. Plus its supposed to repeat the codes three times, and in ascending order.

This same event happened over the weekend, but I just cleared the codes and pretended it never happened. I was hoping something crazy was going on due to low battery voltage and all types of sensors disconnected. I cleared them again today, fired it up on carb cleaner for 10 seconds, and no codes came back. Probably too soon.

Should I replace the ignition control module for the hell of it? My marina says they can cause all types of problems with the ECM and injectors.

Otherwise, I guess my ECM is bad after all. I think I have MEFI3, which means I am double screwed since they are apparently not only very expensive, but no longer available. I see some companies advertise that they repair them, or have replacements in stock. If I am spending 2k + I wish I could at least upgrade to MPI or something.

The scariest part of all is that my ECM was replaced 3 years ago by the PO. The dealer I bought my boat from did not know why it was replaced, but in my opinion it got wet too often. The stupid engine hatch design on my boat is a two piece, with drains in the front, so 95% of the time, water just runs down the center of the two engine covers, and pours right on top of my engine. I have a plan to fix this design flaw this year, but it may be too late.

Any thoughts?
 

nunnink23

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Are any performance kits out there? Something like the marine port injection kit Holley used to sell? Or will this kill my resale?
 
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