Some questions about impeller instalation

[mxhowes]

New to me 1998 Reinell 4.3GL PBYC 240hrs. Picked up this boat at the end of last season and I am spending some time this winter fixing the things I noticed needed attention. I am in the process of installing a 3862281 impeller into the raw water pump (3857794). I'm mechanically inclined,know what to do but are a little confused about some of the statements in the installation instructions that came with the impeller.
1.It says to lubricate the inside of the pump and lip seal with with Glycerine, do not lubricate the 'mechanical seal'. I realize these are general instructions, maybe I don't have a mechanical seal or are they talking about the end plate? I plan on putting the glycerine on every rubber part that touches brass plus the splines.
2. It says to use sealant on the gaskets. I had a paper gasket ~.001" thick installed and it never leaked. What came with my kit was a thicker foam type gasket, I can't see having to use 'sealant' on this gasket and having to clean up the mess next time I install an impeller.
3. Just which way does my engine rotate? I know it will be CW or CCW, but when looking back at the engine from the drivers seat I see the front pulleys & water pump, from that perspective which way does it rotate?

Like I said this boat is new to me with only a 1/2 hr test drive under my belt. I noticed no engine temp registering and started at the thermostat which was stuck open with rubber parts. I'm amazed just how well the impeller was working with about 40% of it broken or missing. Was able to fix the funky trim switch with some lube (most posts say that's impossible) but now have a new spare in the tool box (and a soldering gun).
For the last 25 years it has been a 78 Baha with a 900 Mercury outboard. The boat was dead simple and rock solid (ie. no power steering, tilt, trim or anything else that can go wrong) I am trying to make my 'new' boat just as reliable. Thanks in advance for any information.
Jim

 

[Bondo]

New to me 1998 Reinell 4.3GL PBYC 240hrs. Picked up this boat at the end of last season and I am spending some time this winter fixing the things I noticed needed attention. I am in the process of installing a 3862281 impeller into the raw water pump (3857794). I'm mechanically inclined,know what to do but are a little confused about some of the statements in the installation instructions that came with the impeller.
1.It says to lubricate the inside of the pump and lip seal with with Glycerine, do not lubricate the 'mechanical seal'. I realize these are general instructions, maybe I don't have a mechanical seal or are they talking about the end plate? I plan on putting the glycerine on every rubber part that touches brass plus the splines.
2. It says to use sealant on the gaskets. I had a paper gasket ~.001" thick installed and it never leaked. What came with my kit was a thicker foam type gasket, I can't see having to use 'sealant' on this gasket and having to clean up the mess next time I install an impeller.
3. Just which way does my engine rotate? I know it will be CW or CCW, but when looking back at the engine from the drivers seat I see the front pulleys & water pump, from that perspective which way does it rotate?

Like I said this boat is new to me with only a 1/2 hr test drive under my belt. I noticed no engine temp registering and started at the thermostat which was stuck open with rubber parts. I'm amazed just how well the impeller was working with about 40% of it broken or missing. Was able to fix the funky trim switch with some lube (most posts say that's impossible) but now have a new spare in the tool box (and a soldering gun).
For the last 25 years it has been a 78 Baha with a 900 Mercury outboard. The boat was dead simple and rock solid (ie. no power steering, tilt, trim or anything else that can go wrong) I am trying to make my 'new' boat just as reliable. Thanks in advance for any information.
Jim

Ayuh,..... Welcome Aboard Jim,..... For #1, ya, dishsoap everywhere, but less so at the seal on the shaft to housin',....

#2,... Maybe a bit of perfect seal to hold the gaskets, in-place,..?? up to you,...

#3,..... Yer lookin' at it backwards, so yer Left-handed motor appears to turn CW from where yer lookin',....

If yer not sure, bump the starter,...

 

[Scott Danforth]

All I have ever used is dish soap for lube and the foam gaskets in the kits. I sometimes draw a cartoon pic on the impeller cover to remind me proper orientation. It searves as a reminder when hanging upside down trying to work on some boats

 

[mxhowes]

#3,..... Yer lookin' at it backwards, so yer Left-handed motor appears to turn CW from where yer lookin',....

If yer not sure, bump the starter,... [/QUOTE]

Got too many things disconnected to bump the starter.
So it's a left handed engine, therefore turning CCW as viewed buy a driver of a car. That's the way the vanes on the impeller looked (what was left of them) when I pulled the cover off, just wanted to make sure. As I said I am new to VP and outdrives, not to boats or 4.3's (I've owned two Astro vans in the past). And boy, this is a pleasure to work on this motor in a boat, when it's not sitting under the windshield of a van ....or going thru the wheel wells to try and reach a spark plug or ...... the list could go on for a long time.

 

[bruceb58]

This is a belt driven pump right? That would explain the direction of the vanes I see in the picture.

In the impeller package, they usually include a glycerin pack. KY jelly works well too.

 

[mxhowes]

Yes it's a belt driven pump and I got the glycerin. Got it all figured out, will slap it together and get on with the next thing on my list.

 

[smassey22180]

While you have the thermostat housing off check the internal passages for bits of impeller. They are very hard to find. I put in a new thermostat last summer and still ran cool. It was not until I removed the impeller parts from the bypass tube that I got it up to normal temperature. Remove the thermostat from the housing and feel around inside. There will be some small passages that you can feel but not see. They are curved and it is very hard to get the hard pieces of rubber out. They wedged themselves in while warm. See pics in thread below.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...lkd-running-cold-even-at-idle-doesn-t-warm-up

 

[mxhowes]

While you have the thermostat housing off check the internal passages for bits of impeller. They are very hard to find. I put in a new thermostat last summer and still ran cool. It was not until I removed the impeller parts from the bypass tube that I got it up to normal temperature. Remove the thermostat from the housing and feel around inside. There will be some small passages that you can feel but not see. They are curved and it is very hard to get the hard pieces of rubber out. They wedged themselves in while warm. See pics in thread below.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...oesn-t-warm-up

Good description of the TS housing and a picture a new housing make mine look pretty sick. The picture attached is what I found in my thermostat when chasing down the cold running problem. Small pieces of impeller and rocks stuck in the opening. The two larger pieces of impeller .... one I found blocking the outlet in the housing to the left riser. The other I did not find (even though I could push a wire all the way thru the bypass port) until I got out the dentist mirror and could see it.... then trying to remove it was a challenge. I'm glad I read your post, it made me do a much more through inspection.
On a side note there is no way I can see that a blocked bypass hole could cause a cool running motor. Just the opposite since the raw water can only enter the engine circulation pump if the thermostat is open. But if it worked for you ... great .... kind of like the 'Twilight Zone' for me.

 

[smassey22180]

I'm glad I read your post, it made me do a much more through inspection.
On a side note there is no way I can see that a blocked bypass hole could cause a cool running motor. Just the opposite since the raw water can only enter the engine circulation pump if the thermostat is open. But if it worked for you ... great .... kind of like the 'Twilight Zone' for me.

Glad it all worked out. From what I have read, the blockage causes a pressure that forces the thermostat open, thus the engine never warms up.