Removing upper gear box on AQ290 outdrive

[Redeye1620]

I purchased a 1985 Nordic Viking with a cracked block. I did rebuild the engine using a 1996 Vortec block & heads. The engine sits on an engine stand in my garage. Before installing it I want to go thru the out drive. My plan is to remove a 290 upper gear box to check and replace the u-joints & PDS seals & bearings. I have purchased the u-joint bellows. Are there any other gaskets or o-rings needed to complete the job? Also, are the u-joint, seals & bearings still available for this older outdrive? Thanks in advance for your expertese....-Rich

 

[captmello]

you'll need the two orings, #52 &53, that are between the upper and intermediate assemblies. Also replace gasket # 26 and the elbow, #25 if corroded, those are common issues and are easily done with the upper off.
http://www.volvopentastore.com/Inter...view_id.766714

the fill and drain plugs on the outdrive, #65 (x2) I usually order extras of these.
http://www.volvopentastore.com/Upper...view_id.766713

I would not buy the Volvo ujoints as they are way overpriced, I'll see if I can find the after market ujoints...here it is.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...nt-part-number

The Pds bearings my vary depending on your motor. What model motor are you running? I see vortec heads so its a SBC I presume...
#80 (X2) are the pds seals, #81, and 84 are the bearings.
http://www.volvopentastore.com/Conne...view_id.783587

 

[Redeye1620]

Thank you Captmello. I ordered the soft parts thru the links you provided. I will hold off on the hard parts until I take the outdrive apart. -Rich

 

[Redeye1620]

I read where there are 2 rubber rings, (#68in the above links) sealing the bell housing to the upper gear box. Are these reusable, or need to be replaced too?....-Rich

 

[captmello]

I read where there are 2 rubber rings, (#68in the above links) sealing the bell housing to the upper gear box. Are these reusable, or need to be replaced too?....-Rich

Those seals are apparently reusable in most cases. However, If it were me, I'd replace them. While they will set you back $60, in the big picture it's not that much. Its up to you. Remember to do go through the alignment process when you reinstall the motor to the transom shield. Read this link.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...s/310866-steps-to-install-engine-and-outdrive

 

[Redeye1620]

Thank you again Captmello. Ordered the rubber rings. Thanks for the info on alinging the engine. I'll keep you posted on my slow progress. Thanks again....-Rich

 

[Redeye1620]

OK following the instructions, I removed the two bolts on the helmet, and it says to remove a "pin", where is this pin & how do I remove it? Thanks....-Rich

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...de-pin-removal

 

[captmello]

Instead of the two M6 screws, use two 1/4 inch bolts, 20 thread count, to remove the pin. its not really a pin, but thats what they call it.
BTW, your link is referring to the pivot pins, not the helmet pin.

Carry on!

 

[Redeye1620]

Thank you captian.

 

[Redeye1620]

OK got the upper transmission seperated from the middle box. The u joints look new & have zerk fittings. They feel tight w/o any play. I think I'll just grease them & run them as is.

The primary drive shaft spins freely, but has a low, soft dry growl to it. Like there isn't any lube on the bearings. Just to be safe I think I will replace the bearings, (1 or 2?) & the seals also. I read some where there are aftermarket units available, need to surf the web to find that posting.

The mid box is filled with what looks like engine oil. Is this normal? Does this oil drain thru the lower unit?

Moving on to the shift cable. I did remove the anchor from the front of the outdrive. The cable is loose from the drive, but does not push, or pull thru the transon. Is there a clamp holding it to the inside if the transom?

With your help I will get this barge back in the water soon. Thanks in advance for your expertise.....-Rich

 

[captmello]

Bearings, yes change them. Here are the aftermarket numbers courtesy of Rick.

"1- 6206, 1- 6007, and 2- 35x62x7mm TCM or Timken seals, and are industry standard parts.
Glue or stake FWD seal in place...... AFT seal installs in the Non-conventional direction!
Pre-fill the grease cavity prior to seal installation. "

Yes motor oil in the outdrive straight 30w. yes, it will drain out the bottom.

If the shift cable is disconnected from the shift mechanism and the clamp is removed from the front of the drive, then yes it should pull out. be gentle with the tube that houses the cable inside the boat that goes to the transom shield, you don't want to break or damage it. Carefully try to loosen up the cable, it may be corroded inside that tube I mentioned.

 

[Redeye1620]

I think I will pour some atf down the rubber tube inside the transom & allow it to soak for a few days. I'm out of town until next Monday, so no more playing with it until then.....-Rich

 

[Redeye1620]

My 1 week road trip turned in 2. Back to working on the pds bearings. I have the VP repair manual & a Sealoc manual. Neither address the removal or replacement of the bearings in the flywheel cover. Doing a search I did find a link, but it would not load on my computer. So, does anybody have a step by step process on removing & replacing the pds bearings on a 290 outdrive? Just to update, I have a SBC 5.7l with the red bellhousing. Thanks in advance....Rich