DPS-A Removal

BRICH1260

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During winterization here in a few weeks, I am contemplating removing of my drive (DPS-A) for winter reconditioning. I plan on striping, painting and replacing my bellows along with basic general maintenance during the off season. I have never removed a drive. How difficult is it to do and what source of information provides the best how to instructions. Thanks.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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not difficult at all.

down load the manual http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent...ice_support/Pages/manuals_technical_data.aspx

There are some special tools that really help. if you do not have them, you can follow these instructions:
1. drain drive (not necessary, however easier to do now)
2. remove props (not necessary, however easier to do now)
3. remove shift cover
4. photograph shift linkage
5. disconnect shift cable from linkage. put parts in labeled bag
6. raise drive
7. remove shift cable retainer clip (2 bolts)
8. not locations of all hose clamps for re-assembly. yes, the locations make a difference. things are tight in there. (I recommend photos)
9. disconnect exhaust bellows and remove
10. disconnect water supply hose
11. buy new water supply hose casting as yours just crumbled getting the hose off
12. loosten and remove bellows clamp at upper gear box
13. lower drive all the way down so the skeg is resting on the ground
14. remove the cotter keys and pins retaining the trim cylinders to the H-frame - place in labeled bag
15. lower the trim the remainder to pull the trim cylinder rods in.
16. remove the steering pin from the helmet. you may have to drive off with 1/4-20 bolts (the manual says M6, however per the late guru Don S, these are 1/4" and the manual is wrong)
17. tilt the steering helmet up
18. remove the pivot pin locking bolts (M8 or 5/16 depending on year) - place in labeled bag
19. pull pins with slidehammer. if you do not have a slide hammer, use a brass drift and drive inward. you will need to turn the drive starboard for the port pin, and port for the starboard pin. this will allow the pins to occupy the same location as the bellows
21. grab the top of the drive and tilt it aft, this will pull the driveshaft off the PDS shaft and pull it out of the bellows. the drive is now off and in your hands resting on the ground
22. place drive on workbench.

if you have an input shaft seal leak, now is the time you clean up the quart of nasty gear oil and water mix that just dumped on your shoes

when painting the drive, do NOT use POR 15 products. their paint will let loose and come off in sheets.:facepalm:

if you want, the following steps can be added

0. open beer and enjoy
10a. open second beer and curse the white metal casting
10b. order a set of H-frame pivot bushings - not needed, however always a good choice
23. open another beer and enjoy

installing the drive is pretty much reversal. grease the splines, reach in and guide the u-joint shaft onto the PDS and push it in. there will be a bit of swearing here.
 

BRICH1260

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Maybe just because I have never done it before, but it seems intimidating. I guess I`m aftaid of breaking something in the process. I think it`s one of those processes that if I saw someone do it first, I could do with no problem.I`ll give it a whirl here in a couple weeks when it comes time to winterize the engine. Thanks for your help.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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No problem. if you have a question, ask.

the first time I removed the drive was to pull my motor. took me about 30 minutes to get the drive off. Since then I have had it on and off a half dozen times.
 

bruceb58

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Mar 5, 2006
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30,454
Scott, your directions are not for a DPS-A are they? Looks like the instructions for a 270 or 290 drive.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Your right Bruce. DP-A vs DPS-A. The DPS-A is bolted on with 6 bolts to the gimble assembly, and the rams are attached via studs.
 
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