Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

[ENIRB]

Yes, this is my first post, but I have trolled on here before concerning issued with outboards and solved my problems through the members posts.

Picked up our first family boat this past weekend.

Some info from stickers/plates:

Outdrive:
Prod#- 3868035
Type- SX
Ratio- 185
Ser- 4112003668

Engine Data #'s (idk what they mean):
4110102490
38680034

3.0GSPMDA
Technical data
Engine 3.0GSPMDA
Production period 1993-1994
Operation 4-stroke
Cylinder configuration 4
Bore (mm) 101.6
Stroke (mm) 91.4
Compression ratio 9.31:1
Displacement (litres) 2.96
Power (hp) 150
Max engine speed (rpm) 4200-4600

Started boat for first time (in garage w muffs on w engine cover off).
Started good, idled well enough for the 30 seconds I had it running until I noticed that the water pump belt was spinning, but the pully wasn't and then I shut it down (there was a loud chirping noise as well).
I know what you're thinking... tighten the belt... ya ya I did.
Started it again to see...

Water Pump Pulley not spinning.
Alternator Pump not spinning (appeared to be trying).
Servo (??) Pump pulley spinning but making a RACKET (this is where I think the noise is coming from).

Can I replace just the servo pulley/bearings? Where Can I find them?

Is this keeping all the other belts from spinning?

I can turn the water pump pulley by hand, although it takes quite a bit of force.
Didn't try the alternator pulley.
Servo (??) Pump has fluid.

Additionally, and this may solve the problem in itself.
If I crank it just a lil' bit and stop, all the belts will spin as the engine settles(although I do think its in reverse from the engine removing itself from a compression stroke). This in itself makes me think it needs new belts, and the pulleys cleaned up.

But I still have the noise to isolate and correct as well.

Worst case scenario I'll have it checked out by a local shop, but I really don't have the money, and was hoping someone with experience/knowledge could try to walk me through this - or come lend a hand if your close (or I can come to you... with beverages of course).

I've downloaded the owners manual, and browsed some service manual online.

Once this is solved, I'll get into fixing the issue with the outdrive lowering itself over time.

Anyone care to help me get on the water?
Thanks in advance!




In case I am using the wrong terms the middle two pulleys, and the bottom right (I think the noisy one) are the only pulleys really moving.

 

[aerobat]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

i think you only have a problem with a loose servopump belt which finally drives all the other belts by the distribution pulleys on the circulating waterpump.

we have to understand what is driven by what belt : the entire system is driven by the harmonic balancer pulley in the middle of the engine lower side. it drives via a belt the servopump and the pulleys where the circulationpump if fitted. from this the impellerpump is driven by one belt and the alternator by another

not sure what drunk swede designed this but finally the whole cooling system with two waterpumps , the servopump and the alternator is driven by one belt ! (the servobelt) and so it has to take a significant load. when this belt is loose nothing will spin.

you tighten the servobelt via the servopump. there is a screw between the pulley and the housing which you loose up. additionally there is a support point on the pump housing you can put a standart size ratchet in to lever the servopump and tighten up the belt. then tighten the screw between the pulley and the servopump housing again.

the tightening of the impellerpumpbelt and the alternatorbelt should be self explanatory. tighten all belts up and it should work !

if you intend to change the servobelt there is a removeable piece of the engine mount ( port side) so you can put in a new belt.

 

[ENIRB]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

Thanks for the reply.
I will try adjusting it this afternoon to see if that solves the problem.

I was beginning to lose patience yesterday, so I needed to step back and consult the help of others more experienced than I.

Again, thanks for the assistance, and I will post up again this afternoon...

 

[ENIRB]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

Thanks Aerobat, that indeed fixed the problem.

I've uploaded a video of the boat running in the garage afterwards.
I'm not familiar with I/O, so does the water flow look correct?

If so I'm off to search for threads for fixing my lift rams next...

Where are you in Germany? I was stationed there 5yrs, and have German relatives that still reside in country (Erlangen sp?).

Here is the video:



Again, thanks for all the help. Figures something so simple... and I even tightened the other belt before posting :facepalm:

 

[aerobat]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

glad i was able to help you ! keep always a close look to the servopump belt since like described it has to take a significant force by design , especially on the servosteering models we have. your waterflow if very fine, you are ready for boating !

i live in the vicinity o hannover, so a little bit north of erlangen. you were in germany 5yrs by US military ?

one request to you since you have the same engine i have : could you start it up and give it a fast idle ( lets say 1500 rpm ) , than grab by hand the big u shaped waterhose from the thermostat housing to the recirculationpump ( the big hose is on the opposite side from your alternator and goes in an u-shape down where the pulleys are in the middle of the engine ) and tell me how much pressure you feel in it.

can you squeeze it by hand or does it feel like it carries significant pressure ? ( be careful since there is a belt spinning nearby !!! )

thank you !

 

[vwbugman69]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

If so I'm off to search for threads for fixing my lift rams next...
:facepalm:

Here is what I used for reference when I did mine: Rebuilding trim cylinders

Very simple procedure to do. The hardest part was finding the correct size spanner wrench.

 

[ENIRB]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

glad i was able to help you ! keep always a close look to the servopump belt since like described it has to take a significant force by design , especially on the servosteering models we have. your waterflow if very fine, you are ready for boating !

i live in the vicinity o hannover, so a little bit north of erlangen. you were in germany 5yrs by US military ?

one request to you since you have the same engine i have : could you start it up and give it a fast idle ( lets say 1500 rpm ) , than grab by hand the big u shaped waterhose from the thermostat housing to the recirculationpump ( the big hose is on the opposite side from your alternator and goes in an u-shape down where the pulleys are in the middle of the engine ) and tell me how much pressure you feel in it.

can you squeeze it by hand or does it feel like it carries significant pressure ? ( be careful since there is a belt spinning nearby !!! )

thank you !

Yes, by US Military. Very Very Very beautiful there.

Sorry for the delay in responding.
I started the boat Saturday and checked the pressure on the large waterhose.
The pressure is significant, I can however squeeze it slightly (1/4'' inch or so) using thumb and forefinger.
Hope this helps!

 

[ENIRB]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

Here is what I used for reference when I did mine: Rebuilding trim cylinders

Very simple procedure to do. The hardest part was finding the correct size spanner wrench.

Thanks for the link, I'm sure I'll be using the info.

If my outdrive lowers itself over time something needs attention obviously, but in the meantime, do I risk damaging anything operating the boat as it is? Besides @ the boat ramp, I don't foresee a real need to have it trimmed up for any substantial amount of time.

 

[aerobat]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

The pressure is significant, I can however squeeze it slightly (1/4'' inch or so) using thumb and forefinger.
Hope this helps!

you helped a lot- thats about the pressure i have in my hose and it seems to be normal its pressurized . was not sure about that.

regarding your drive : start with the single things . locate where your trim pump is located and you will find a red plastic plug on it. thats the oil filler plug . check oil level - i bet its low - and refill with atf II up to the hole of the filler plug. then trim your drive up and down several times to get air out the system and recheck the oil level. i think it might help.

when opening the filler plug you MUST trim fully up the drive before otherwise you will find the system on pressure and spill anything on your engine bay when opening the filler plug.

 

[vwbugman69]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

If my outdrive lowers itself over time something needs attention obviously, but in the meantime, do I risk damaging anything operating the boat as it is? Besides @ the boat ramp, I don't foresee a real need to have it trimmed up for any substantial amount of time.

You risk damaging your very expensive trim pump. If your fluid can get out, water can get in. What color is your trim fluid? If it is milky it already has water in it.

 

[ENIRB]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

You risk damaging your very expensive trim pump. If your fluid can get out, water can get in. What color is your trim fluid? If it is milky it already has water in it.

Sorry for the delay, I located the trim pump, and it appears to be full.
The fluid is red, not milky at all.

I opened it up, with pressure releived, and attempted to add just to make sure.
I did notice that 1 of the 2 mounting bolts has "eroded" and left the pump hanging slightly cocked.
But my understanding is the pump orientation shouldn't effect operation (I held upright when doing fluid).
I ran the outdrive up and down several times, but NOW sometimes when going down the pump squeels/screaches, any ideas?
The lower unit still drops over time, read:hours.

I changed the lower unit oil, and we took the boat out Sunday and had a blast.
Caught some perch, and our boy even tried to kneeboard (in 40* water mind you lol, oh to be a teenager again)(we had blankets at the ready).
Everything performed flawlessly really.
The wife and I are super excited to be on the water this summer!!!

 

[insttech1]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

Pump squeal means air is in the lines and needs to be relieved.

Drive falling on its own means loss of pressure.
If you have all red fluid, and not pink, you are LUCKY!!

You may be losing ATF at any of the four hydraulic lines connecting to the two rams.
Or, where the lines terminate at the drive housing at the transom.
Do you see ATF around the front seals/s or rear hydraulic lines at the rams?
Or anywhere for that matter?

I would wrap a piece of paper towel around every hydraulic fitting at the back of the boat, with the drive dry, let it sit overnight,
and then inspect to see if any of the paper gets a pink hue to it--and there's your leak!!

There are also more orings on the lines at the pump itself, and where the two lines attach to the inner transom housing at the
back of the motor. So if no pink leak on the outside, check the ones on the inside.

After you find/fix your leak, and refill w/ fluid, then you can run the drive up/down w/ the cap off the pump reservoir, and it
should relieve the air from the system, and end the squealing.

Of course, the pump usually sounds different going up than down, but it shouldn't "scream".

And I would move the whole pump over a bit and screw it back down in place so it doesn't flop around.

There are orings on each line; an 11mm wrench will get them off.

 

[ENIRB]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

Pump squeal means air is in the lines and needs to be relieved.

Drive falling on its own means loss of pressure.
If you have all red fluid, and not pink, you are LUCKY!!

You may be losing ATF at any of the four hydraulic lines connecting to the two rams.
Or, where the lines terminate at the drive housing at the transom.
Do you see ATF around the front seals/s or rear hydraulic lines at the rams?
Or anywhere for that matter?

I would wrap a piece of paper towel around every hydraulic fitting at the back of the boat, with the drive dry, let it sit overnight,
and then inspect to see if any of the paper gets a pink hue to it--and there's your leak!!

There are also more orings on the lines at the pump itself, and where the two lines attach to the inner transom housing at the
back of the motor. So if no pink leak on the outside, check the ones on the inside.

After you find/fix your leak, and refill w/ fluid, then you can run the drive up/down w/ the cap off the pump reservoir, and it
should relieve the air from the system, and end the squealing.

Of course, the pump usually sounds different going up than down, but it shouldn't "scream".

And I would move the whole pump over a bit and screw it back down in place so it doesn't flop around.

There are orings on each line; an 11mm wrench will get them off.

I did not notice any leaks, but I will follow your advice and wrap areas with a paper towel to better detect any leaks.

I think I may be able to simply use another hole on the pumps mounting bracket to secure it in its present location. Though I must admit the thought of making a hole into the stern does make me nervous.

I will inspect for leaks the next couple days and report back.
Thanks!

 

[insttech1]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

Hold off on relocating the pump!!
You have a different version than me; mine is inside, and just mounted to a piece of coated plywood.
Yours is on the outside; different situation.

We'd need to see pic's, but drilling the CORRECT size pilot hole in the transom and sealing w/ the correct sealer, and filling the old holes w/ marine grade epoxy, is a viable solution, but only if you have enough slack in the hyd lines to move it over.

 

[insttech1]

Re: Volvo Penta 3.0GSPMDA

Also, if you have a leak, I believe that I have read that your style of pump leaks from underneath some cover that is over the outer hydraulic fittings where they meet up w/ the transom mount.

Do a search; you may find some more info on it.

 

[ENIRB]

Long overdue update.
Had a leak where fittings connected to a block on the transom.

 

[ENIRB]

I know this is getting flooded with winterizing questions, and I have one of my own:

What I did so far:
Ran motor until it reached operating temps, took off the hose and hooked up antifreeze to muffs, ran until it came out exhaust.
Pulled waterpump hoses to ensure AF in both lines.
Fogged motor.
Removed Battery.
Pulled Drain plug.
Put some AF in bilge (I'm paranoid).

I plan on changing oils in spring.

I can't seem to get the pivot plug out, will get a bigger screwdriver tomorrow to try again.
- Does this need to be done even though I ran AF through the system?

I'm having a hard time locating the drain plugs in the block (granted I'm cold and impatient at the moment)
- Does this need to be done even though I ran AF through the system?

Battery Terminal on battery is loose... when I spin the wingnut the whole bolts spins going into the battery, any fixes or am I looking at a new battery?

 

[ENIRB]

Starboard:


Port:


The plug with the circle I removed, and it was bone dry... whatever it is to.

 

[bruceb58]

Manifold drain. Did you poke a screw driver up into it?

Personally, I would drain your block at his point and not rely on pumping anti freeze through your block.

 

[ENIRB]

Manifold drain. Did you poke a screw driver up into it?

Personally, I would drain your block at his point and not rely on pumping anti freeze through your block.

After my post I did, ended up removing the entire fitting from the manifold, as it was packed solid.
Upon doing so, quite a bit of AF came out.

I checked the lowest hoses on the motor, and all contain AF.

I turned the page in my manual and now see the section pertaining to my motor... AHHH dumb mistake on my part.
I was looking for the block drains for different motor configurations, haha.

Ok, so my motor is inhibited, but I'm about to drain the block anyways...? OR am I good for the winter?

I still need to drain the pivot housing as well.