Volvo penta 4.3l GL-J, raw water drain locations? (pics)

[ThreeMileBayWaker]

Money is tight with neededing new tires for my truck and other unforeseen bills so I want to save myself the $250 winterization fees this year. I've read the sticky and several other posts pertaining to winterizing but trying to not purchased the expensive shop manual. I've poked around the engine compartment tracing hoses, plugs etc. and took these photos. Am I missing anything?

Starboard side, manifold and block drain plugs

Intake square manifold plug, which looks like its never ever been cracked open before? Boats been winterized two seasons before and never had an issue...someone shed light on this?

Port side intake and block drain plugs

Remove both these raw water pump hoses?

Remove hoses on left, make sure water comes out t-stat housing?

 

[ThreeMileBayWaker]

Re: Volvo penta 4.3l GL-J, raw water drain locations? (pics)

Remove this hose off circulation pump?

The power steering pump heat exchanger is the shiny metal steel tube here, it slants downward and I don't see any drain plugs to drain it. Does this self drain when the hoses are removed off the water pump? The exchanger is inline from where the intake hose passes through the transom and before the raw water pump.

Everything else is pretty straight forward as far as oil changes, filter changes and engine fogging. I have never used anti-freeze when getting the motor winterized before, I've read numerous posts and seems like a hassle not worth trying. Air doesnt freeze.

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo penta 4.3l GL-J, raw water drain locations? (pics)

Intake square manifold plug, which looks like its never ever been cracked open before? Boats been winterized two seasons before and never had an issue...someone shed light on this?

Since we weren't there to see how the shop did it, it's impossible to say what they did.
It could be something as simple as you moving the boat to take it home sloshed enough water out of the manifold to keep it from cracking the manifold. before it froze.

But I would sure be for removing it and draining it if it was mine. Replace it with a brass hex head plug, makes them a lot easier to remove each year.

 

[ThreeMileBayWaker]

Re: Volvo penta 4.3l GL-J, raw water drain locations? (pics)

I'll be removing it for sure and then dip the bow down as far as I can go...

But does everything else seem right? Mostly concerned with the power steering heat exchanger, it looks like it drains by gravity but just want to be 100% sure.

 

[Don S]

Re: Volvo penta 4.3l GL-J, raw water drain locations? (pics)

No need to go bow down, level will do fine. A little water puddle doesn't hurt anything, It's the enclosed areas that are fuil of water and no place for the ice to expand is where the problem lies.
If your concerned about the PS cooler, pull the hose off the low side and drain it.

 

[2010upset]

Re: Volvo penta 4.3l GL-J, raw water drain locations? (pics)

Be sure to tip bow down to drain the mainfold. I did not and this cost a reman engine due to crack in manifold that did not open until second run the following spring. Then the engine filled with water wiping the bearings, I think. Volvo book calls for lowering the bow "if possable" this should read required. Because their language was vague they did not come to court to defend their refusal to warrant the engine replacement. The court awarded full payment for the replacement engine. Be sure you lower the bow that way you will know it is drained and past level.

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: Volvo penta 4.3l GL-J, raw water drain locations? (pics)

Now you've save the 250$
Now spend part of the money you've saved to buy the FACTORY service manual.
Everything I own,bike,boat,travel trailer etc.I have the factory manual.
The Bike manual has come in unbelievably handy!!

 

[spoilsofwar]

Re: Volvo penta 4.3l GL-J, raw water drain locations? (pics)

I winterized my 4.3 yesterday (its a GL-P not J, but the drains are the same it appears)... If you don't pull the brass plug on the intake manifold you will have about 1/2 inch depth standing water in the manifold even after pulling the four blue drain plugs. I confirmed this when I took off the t-stat housing and looked directly into the manifold. Whether that is enough remaining water to cause freeze damage or not, I don't know, but I certainly would not risk it.

I personally pulled the t-stat housing so I could pour antifreeze directly into the block (after draining the block of raw water). This way, I don't have to worry about running the boat up to operating temp to get antifreeze into the block. Replacing a $3 thermostat housing gasket every year in exchange for knowing for sure that your engine is protected seems well worth it to me.

The drain-only and don't antifreeze method also seems fine to me, but I don't like the thought of any additional opportunity for corrosion, whether that's real or imagined.