1800slchap
Cadet
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2011
- Messages
- 17
Just bought a new I/O boat this past weekend, couldn't pass it up, guy leaving the island and I got it for a steal! Well a steal for Maui, second hand boats here are few and far between.
It?s a 1988 Chaparral 1800SL with the Volvo Penta 250A (AQ151) ?red-block? B230 & SP out-drive, Engine#2200109982 Drive#1101593985. HR meter shows 176.5hrs but I doubt it. The deck is in good shape no rot, and the EZ loader trailer is in great shape. The boat was last in the ocean 5/2009 then in 8/2010 he decided to get it running again and it wouldn?t start. Let it sit till 10/2011 when I got it.
Initial look I took of the boat, it showed potential. He had stated it wasn?t running but it was running great before he let it sit. I checked under the engine cover and the motor showed a little rust, mainly on steel bolt heads and light metals. The distributor cap was off and the alternator, water pump belt was off in the bilge. I turned the engine over by hand and it got compression on the second 180 right when the timing mark came to TDC. Looks like it needs a new timing belt, the cam is rusted and the tensioner pulley is corroded too.
OH NO dual carbs! The alternator and starter look fairly good and maybe recently replaced. There is what looks like a new distributor cap and the spark plug wires are shot! Blue Top Optima dated 10/09, and a couple of relays lying next to it in the battery compartment. No oil in bilge, electrical looks like it needs a good cleaning and maybe a new harness but I enjoy that kind of stuff and I did want a project anyway.
THE PLAN
I got her home and I pressure washed the outside and the cushions on the inside, the boat had been covered but still was quite dusty. Let her dry out in the sun and got to work taking all the seats out, I need to replace the interior carpeting in the boat so I figured now is a good time to get them out of the way, eliminates greasy hand prints too!
After further inspection the carbs are loose and it looks like someone was about to attempt a timing belt job as I found a new timing belt in the box and the heat exchanger bolts were loose. I took the plugs out sprayed a little WD40 down each hole and let it sit as I peered in with a flashlight, looks nice and shiny in there, well of course it does you just sprayed WD40 in there LOL! Checked the oil on the dipstick smells a little old but looks good and is right on the full mark, pulled the fill cap on the valve cover and peered in , all shiny no corrosion from what I can see here (cross fingers).
I then hook up the battery, the motor turns over, sounds fine, let it crank over about 8-10 revolutions. Now that I had power, the dash voltmeter is showing 11.8v and the blower fan comes on, I try the lights/nav button on the dash and the oil pressure and water temp gauges peg out and I lose power to trim panel and now the blower fan won?t come on! I unhooked the battery ASAP! Electrical gremlins as I suspected! I will try to clean all the contacts on switches and gauges, clean and replace all ground connections and I think whole new battery/charging/wires are in order. Replace connectors and cover in dielectric grease. See if I can get power back to a few things.
In the mean while I need to test all accessories to verify trim motor, bilge pump, lights and accessories function. I can replace electrical all day long, I enjoy it and look forward to cleaning up this boats accessories. I have a battery isolator I have been hanging on too. I will install it with my pair of blue top Optimas?, keeping one for cranking and the other for everything else.
I pulled the carbs and started to disassemble them, I have one completely torn down cleaned and ready to go back together, the other is soaking in the parts cleaner bucket as I type this. Kits are on order will be here hopefully tomorrow. Also ordered new fuel pump, spark plug wires, points, condenser, water separator/fuel filter, Perko battery selector switch, and a few other things. Raw water impeller looks good, who knows about the water pump on the engine, looked in the outlet hole and it looks shiny in there, shrug!
Question #1 Can the belt tensioner pulley from the B230 be used when replacing the timing belt?
Question #2 Where can I find the wiring diagram for the panel ? engine harness?RTFM
Question#3 The manual says to use ?same as engine? for outdrive, really just 10w30?
Question#4 The accelerator tube hold down bracket/gasket in one of the 44PA1 carbs won?t come out any suggestions? I soaked it for 24 hours!
Besides that I?m good at searching forums and used to RTFM type boards. Just wanted to share my new project with you guys and try to help where possible. I owned an import car race shop for about five years back in 2000-05. Stressful business but I have built many +400hp turbo 4 cylinders over those 5 yrs drag racing, so hopefully I can use some of that info to help me get this thing back in the water. If I can help out others in the process then great!
Sorry so long, thanks for all the great info!
The Boat
Carb #1
carb #2
damn thing wont come out!
Mahalo & Aloha!
It?s a 1988 Chaparral 1800SL with the Volvo Penta 250A (AQ151) ?red-block? B230 & SP out-drive, Engine#2200109982 Drive#1101593985. HR meter shows 176.5hrs but I doubt it. The deck is in good shape no rot, and the EZ loader trailer is in great shape. The boat was last in the ocean 5/2009 then in 8/2010 he decided to get it running again and it wouldn?t start. Let it sit till 10/2011 when I got it.
Initial look I took of the boat, it showed potential. He had stated it wasn?t running but it was running great before he let it sit. I checked under the engine cover and the motor showed a little rust, mainly on steel bolt heads and light metals. The distributor cap was off and the alternator, water pump belt was off in the bilge. I turned the engine over by hand and it got compression on the second 180 right when the timing mark came to TDC. Looks like it needs a new timing belt, the cam is rusted and the tensioner pulley is corroded too.
OH NO dual carbs! The alternator and starter look fairly good and maybe recently replaced. There is what looks like a new distributor cap and the spark plug wires are shot! Blue Top Optima dated 10/09, and a couple of relays lying next to it in the battery compartment. No oil in bilge, electrical looks like it needs a good cleaning and maybe a new harness but I enjoy that kind of stuff and I did want a project anyway.
THE PLAN
I got her home and I pressure washed the outside and the cushions on the inside, the boat had been covered but still was quite dusty. Let her dry out in the sun and got to work taking all the seats out, I need to replace the interior carpeting in the boat so I figured now is a good time to get them out of the way, eliminates greasy hand prints too!
After further inspection the carbs are loose and it looks like someone was about to attempt a timing belt job as I found a new timing belt in the box and the heat exchanger bolts were loose. I took the plugs out sprayed a little WD40 down each hole and let it sit as I peered in with a flashlight, looks nice and shiny in there, well of course it does you just sprayed WD40 in there LOL! Checked the oil on the dipstick smells a little old but looks good and is right on the full mark, pulled the fill cap on the valve cover and peered in , all shiny no corrosion from what I can see here (cross fingers).
I then hook up the battery, the motor turns over, sounds fine, let it crank over about 8-10 revolutions. Now that I had power, the dash voltmeter is showing 11.8v and the blower fan comes on, I try the lights/nav button on the dash and the oil pressure and water temp gauges peg out and I lose power to trim panel and now the blower fan won?t come on! I unhooked the battery ASAP! Electrical gremlins as I suspected! I will try to clean all the contacts on switches and gauges, clean and replace all ground connections and I think whole new battery/charging/wires are in order. Replace connectors and cover in dielectric grease. See if I can get power back to a few things.
In the mean while I need to test all accessories to verify trim motor, bilge pump, lights and accessories function. I can replace electrical all day long, I enjoy it and look forward to cleaning up this boats accessories. I have a battery isolator I have been hanging on too. I will install it with my pair of blue top Optimas?, keeping one for cranking and the other for everything else.
I pulled the carbs and started to disassemble them, I have one completely torn down cleaned and ready to go back together, the other is soaking in the parts cleaner bucket as I type this. Kits are on order will be here hopefully tomorrow. Also ordered new fuel pump, spark plug wires, points, condenser, water separator/fuel filter, Perko battery selector switch, and a few other things. Raw water impeller looks good, who knows about the water pump on the engine, looked in the outlet hole and it looks shiny in there, shrug!
Question #1 Can the belt tensioner pulley from the B230 be used when replacing the timing belt?
Question #2 Where can I find the wiring diagram for the panel ? engine harness?RTFM
Question#3 The manual says to use ?same as engine? for outdrive, really just 10w30?
Question#4 The accelerator tube hold down bracket/gasket in one of the 44PA1 carbs won?t come out any suggestions? I soaked it for 24 hours!
Besides that I?m good at searching forums and used to RTFM type boards. Just wanted to share my new project with you guys and try to help where possible. I owned an import car race shop for about five years back in 2000-05. Stressful business but I have built many +400hp turbo 4 cylinders over those 5 yrs drag racing, so hopefully I can use some of that info to help me get this thing back in the water. If I can help out others in the process then great!
Sorry so long, thanks for all the great info!
The Boat Carb #1 carb #2 damn thing wont come out!Mahalo & Aloha!
Has anyone tried the automotive equivalent, will they work?
