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Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

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  • Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

    I have this beautiful 1983 (year build) Bayliner Capri 1950 (boat length) I bought new with a Volvo AQ225D (short block Chevy 305 V8) and 270 stern drive that I love. It sucked a valve five years ago, and I am just now getting to an engine restoration. I have read the "money hole" posts and nonetheless am going for it desptie the warnings. The drive is probably fine, will have to drain the fuel and clean gunk, replace engine with long block, rebuild carb and do all the hoses. I can live with that and am handy and I think I can do all the work myself and have something to do this winter. But, now as I start to shop around for the engine, too many options, not enough answers. The original engine is Chevy 305 with Holly carb, normal point type ignition.Since I am starting from scratch, why not get a a 350 instead of 305 as the remanufactured price is not much more? A 350 is just a 305 with internal bore/stroke differences that shold not matter to the drive except for excessive horpower overload. Well I need to know if it will just bolt up? So far after many nights searching on the internet I found out the following differences to the chevy short block over the last 20 years.Chevy 305 after 1983 changed the bolt pattern on the valve covers. Okay I can live with that, get Pep Boys valve covers so what if they don't say Volvo on them.Dip stick moves from starboard to port on engines built after 1985. I can't see a big deal I have room on both sides. Am I missing anything here? No big problem right? Rear main seal was two piece and changed to one piece . Uhhhh, the outdrive should not care how the oil is sealed.The flywheel changed from 12.75 inches to I think 14. Now I get worried as I do not know all the problems about hitching engine to drive. My shop manual is not here yet and may not even answer this. I think maybe so what I still have my old flywheel just take off the 14 and put on the 12, is it that easy? Who knows?Also around 1987 intake manifold changed bolt angle. This problem can be solved with new manifold, maybe aluminum high rise or something fancy. Money (a few hundred bucks) will solve this or no?So now, worried I am hunkering down and saying "Just buy the same 1983 replacement block and don't try and take 20 years off your boat". Then another voice in my head (maybe the devil) says hey get the 350, get EFI and don't waste time rebuilding the Holly, go hi-rise manifold and put some better parts (except the one with flame problems like starter alernator).One friend says go to a car dealership and buy a brand new Goodwrench 350 crated engine for about $1200 and don't worry about the marine cam just live with the cam, bolt up the new engine and go. I do not see any information on the intenet of anyone who ever did this. I have read all the posts here about car engines will work except for cam and parts that make sparks, but did these posters consider these flywheel seal, dipstick, differences?I can go to these guys and get the 1983 Volvo Marine remanufactured long block for about the same $1200 and have no problems of any kind. They guarantee all original parts will fit and bolt up and guarantee one year for defects. http://www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com/ They have best price/spin on a reman at about $1,200 and I want to add titanium valves and a few extras.(If anyone has bad news, good news about this source I would appreciate it, and if anyone has a better source also I would appreciate the advice)But my big question for those of you who have much experience, is...What can I bolt up to my Volvo 270 without a big headache? Any Chevy small block? or do I have to get an old one with identical dip stick, flywheel, and oil seal. Is there any chart or matrix on what will and will not just bolt up? Should I just play it safe and buy just the identical year for year 305 and just forget about upgrading to something more current.It just seems anti-climactic to buy a 20 year old reman long block when there is no core charge and the remanufacturer will just give me my pick of anything off the list. I just don't know what to pick.Also if I pick this old block, and then find my drive is in need of repair, then I have to stay with an old drive to match the old engine. Catch 22.So before I chicken out and just get the 1983 long block, or take a stab in the dark and pick a newer 350 I thought it would be wise to hear from this group. What engine should I pick off their list? Looking forward to what anyone knows.Thanks.


  • #2
    Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

    A 350 will replace a 305 with no problem, but changing to a newer style block with the larger flywheel will be a problem.When using the newer style engine, you would need to replace the bellhousing assembly to the newer style (and size).The easiest and least expensive way to go is to use the old style block like you have.If you start shopping for engine blocks by price only you are going to end up with junk. Many of the remanned engines are bored to .060 and about 2/3's of the ones that people have bought them like that don't get 10 hours on the engine, and the warranty is a joke. Do some research, and find a good MARINE long block to directly replace what you have, and you will have a dependable boat you can enjoy.Remember, you can't just walk home when your boat engine blows up.
    Don S.

    sigpic

    Please, no PM's (Private Messages) regarding boat/engine problems.
    That is what the forums are for.
    Only forum/moderator issues will be answered in PM's.

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    • #3
      Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

      no message

      Comment



      • #4
        Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

        Okay I can live with that, get Pep Boys valve covers so what if they don't say Volvo on them.
        OMG! The Cardinal Sin! Buying parts from an AUTOSTORE for your BOAT engine! You're going to Hell for sure!.... (snick)
        sigpicIf it were easy, any Caveman could do it.

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        • #5
          Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

          Originally posted by MURX: Forget the rebuit @$1200.00Go to a large Volume GM crate Engine DealerI buy them From Connell Chevrolet in Costa mesaLast one I bought 4 bolt main 350 7/04 1170.00 in the crateThis engine is new (Not Rebuilt) and it's the Early style 1972 thru 1986 perimiter style rockercover bolts the Cam grind is standard Chevy Truckheadgaskets are stainless and they have brass freeze plugs 249 HP pushes a skipjack 24 flyFine, in Fact top speed went up 6mph over the worn out 305

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          • #6
            Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

            Great, this is very good advice. I called Connell today and they quoted $1440 including a $100 core. My local dealer here in Thousand Oaks, CA quoted $1399 no core, and both have huge quantities on hand. This is a no brainer, I am going with this new engine. There are many posts here that say there are little differences between the light truck cam and a "marine" cam and I will not let this cam difference change my mind.Did you put it in yourself? It does not seem like a big deal to me.Also when I asked the dealer if this engine had brass freeze plugs and stainless head gaskets he did not know. How did you know that. Both dealers knew about the pre 1985 dip stick, bolt pattern and oil seal differences. I am amazed they still sell huge quantities of this "older" but new engine and both dealers said they sell them all the time. There is no warranty from GM if this is put in a boat, but who cares. The guy from Connell said he sells them for boats all the time with no problems. The GM part number for this engine is 10067353 and I wonder if this is the same one you got if you still have the number around.I have always been nervous with remanufactured anything, you never know what they put in. So I am going for this new one based upon your and my friends advice.I assume no problem pulling and replacing if one has done this before with a car. I have done cars since I was 16 years old (42 years ago) and if this is no more complicated than a car I am on my way. There is far more room to work on my Bayliner than on the Camaro I worked on once.Thanks for the advice.

            Comment



            • #7
              Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

              MURX, was that for a short block or did it have the intake, oil pan, carb, etc?

              Comment



              • #8
                Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

                Comment



                • #9
                  Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

                  Where was this post a month ago! But I needed an '82 V-6. Doubt they would have it anyway.
                  sigpicIf it were easy, any Caveman could do it.

                  Comment



                  • #10
                    Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

                    Buy the old style block, it'll be fine. If it's FWC, don't worry about SS gaskets or Brass plugs, they're only needed with RWC motors...

                    Comment



                    • #11
                      Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

                      are they aluminum or cast?

                      Comment



                      • #12
                        Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

                        No intake Ralph,

                        Comment



                        • #13
                          Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

                          ok that makes more sense... Marine remanufactured short blocks (not rebuilts) run around $1,100 delivered and with tin and dyno sheets around $1,400

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                          • #14
                            Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

                            Ralph among other things short blocks don't come with heads. A motor w/ intake exhaust etc is considered a complete motor. Correct me if I'm wrong

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                            • #15
                              Sign up today
                              Re: Chevy/Volvo 305 or 350 LongBlock Upgrade Advice

                              The short blocks I am talking about come with heads. Just no tin and no intake. I purchased 2 Marine Reman 350s for my Formula. They come with Special Torque Cam Shaft, 4 Bolt Mains, Fel-Pro Marine Gasket Sets, Brass Freeze Plugs, Hypereutectic Marine Pistons and Double Roller Cam Drives and a 2 year warranty. Then you have short with tin (timing cover, marine oil pan, valve covers) which run like $300 more and include dyno sheets.then you have marine crate motors which are drop in and go ($4.5K for a Crusader with 4 BBL Holley marine carburetor with electric choke, Bronze-lined intake manifold, mech fuel pump, Mallory marine distributor, flywheel, marine spark plugs, marine plug wires, marine water pump, and harmonic balancer rated at 325hp)

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