oil level increase 5.7 GSI

rtoomey641

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Hi 2000 Volvo 5.7 GSI when I got it oil level was high I thought previous owner over filled I changed the oil and set level ran engine and checked again was good Ran engine for a while to winterize seems like a lot of fuel coming out of injectors and when I checked oil it was over filled. Oil looks ok not milky so I think fuel is getting in but where do I look for that intake gasket? Is it possible its just running to rich but being fuel injected how do you change that? Thanks
 

Scott Danforth

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you find the leaking injector or the out of spec sensor and you replace it. diagnosing EFI problems is difficult for the DIYer and often requires equipment like a scan tool such as Rinda
 
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tpenfield

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Your possibilities are fuel or water that is getting added to the oil. Water in oil does not always make the milk shake right away.

A quick test for water in the oil would be to take a small sample and put it in a shallow metal pan and apply some heat to it- enough to boil water.

You will see the water boiling off, if there is any present
 

alldodge

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seems like a lot of fuel coming out of injectors

My guess would either be the injector or fuel pressure regulator. Need to get a pressure gauge on the throttle body to determine. Need one of these to connect

VP TBI adapter.jpg
 

Lou C

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Does the oil smell like gas? You could pull out a sample and have it analyzed, for either gas or water. Sometimes with the style of oil dipstick tube used you can get misleading readings when you first check it. Does this engine have the type of dipstick tube that goes all the way down to the bottom of the oil pan? I know OMC used this style and Volvo did also, but that may have changed on later ones. At any rate with that style of tube, what can happen is this:
​the engine has been sitting, when you first check it the level is high, but if you pull the stick out and let the level in the tube stabilize for a few moments it will read correct.
​after the engine has been running, the opposite will happen. It will read low at first and then when it stabilizes it will read correctly. Takes a minute or 2.
​I think what happens is when the engine is shut off, the air in the tube is warm, then when it cools it pulls more oil up into the tube, that's why the initial cold reading is high. When the engine has been run the opposite happens, the warm air in the tube keeps the oil from reading correctly until you pull the stick out and that allows the level to equalize.
​If the dipstick tube goes right into the block, like on an automotive application, then this does not apply. I'd still get the oil analyzed if you can. It will answer all your questions. Blackstone labs is excellent but it takes a while, maybe try Ted's test because if there is water in the oil you want it out fast!
 

rtoomey641

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I'm pretty sure its gas as I can see raw fuel sitting in manifold through throttle body I have a diagnostic tool for obd 2 will this work on my engine or are there specific tools for marine engines, took out a couple plugs and they looked wet
 

alldodge

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I have a diagnostic tool for obd 2 will this work on my engine or are there specific tools for marine engines

No it won't work, it takes specific tool, look for Rinda
 

rtoomey641

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Ok got problems have to wait on weather for compression test runs fine doesn't overheat no codes in computer plugs are wet and black water in 2 cylinders on opposite sides of engine water spraying out of cylinder 2 when engine turns over with no spark plugs. This is a long block installed by previous owner that has 3 hours on it old engine wasn't winterized properly and block cracked. I've never seen 2 bad head gaskets at same time I.m hoping cracked intake as it is the original from cracked block is there any way to confirm without or so removal and if it is compression should be ok correct? Any thoughts am I missing anything? Ujoint and exhaust bellows are shot and had water in them. Oil looks ok not milky at all just changed it ran engine for 10 min or so then when I finished winterizing checked oil level and noticed it was high. When running on hose water was poring out bottom of transom more than exhaust
 

alldodge

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. When running on hose water was poring out bottom of transom more than exhaust

More out of the transom then the exhaust, sounds like your block is cracked again. Start the motor and look under it, you should be able to see where the water is coming from.

If compression is good its not the heads.
 

Lou C

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If water is coming out of 2 cyls on opposite sides at the same time the it could be a rotted out intake that could put water in both sides, bad intake gaskets, improperly installed or torqued. A bad overheat can blow both head gaskets, it happened on my engine actually. One side shot out water, the other side was just a mist of water. If the old engine cracked and they installed a new one but they re-used the old intake...hmmm.....
​You can air test the cooling passages of the engine after draining the water, that will tell you there's leak, if you open the throttle valves and listen by there, you might hear it. You will have to find a way to rig up plugs to put in all the ports in the thermostat housing and then rig up an air hose to pressurize it.
Changing the intake is not a big deal, you have to remove a bit of stuff and clean the engine very well before opening it up. Make sure to use the good Fel/Pro marine intake gaskets and be very careful to get the sealing surfaces clean. Keep dirt out of the intake ports and cam valley.

​PS, milky oil does not always show up on the dipstick right away. Take off the oil cap on the valve cover and look inside, when the engine is cool stick a finger inside and see if there is clean oil there or something that looks like mayo...
 
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rtoomey641

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Ok Going to do compression test next sat boat is 87 Antigua cabin cruiser no water coming out under engine back of transom above drain plug out of boat I heard my exhaust might be cloggede
 

Lou C

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Is the engine overheating? No water coming out from under the transom is a bad sign! You should be then checking your raw water impeller and exhaust system...
 

rtoomey641

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No overheating when running on hose seems like more water comes out near transom than through exhaust thinking might be blocked
 

Lou C

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On those engines most of the water will come out of the relief ports on the underside of the transom mount, right in front of the front end of the lower unit. Not much at all from the prop. If that's what you see & the temp gauge is normal then its fine as far as that goes. Do check for milky oil under the valve cover though...
 

rtoomey641

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I don't think the engine ever overheated the previous owner only broke in motor never ran in water we only went out a couple times and ran on hose a bit every time I ran it ran steady at 170 never went past 175 even at idle motor appears to run as if no problems it does have a hard time starting but I think that is because of the water in cylinders engine has a hard time turning
 

rtoomey641

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Ok compression test results 6 cylinders at around 185 2 at 215 and one at 300
 

Lou C

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Those high results could be because of water in the cyls still; blow out the water drain block and manifolds and re test. Had the same thing on mine.
 

rtoomey641

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Ok new results after draining all cylinders 180 to 190 a small amount of mayo under valve cover a couple drops thinking water pushed past rings or valve seats due to excessive pressure oil on dipstick is fine runs great. Bad intake?
 

Lou C

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Well mayo under the valve covers and water in the cyls, suggests either blown head gaskets (keep in mind that an engine can run OK with blown HGs if the blown area is not between cyls but it is between the cyl and a water passage), a rotted out intake, which can put water into both sides if it rots out between the thermostat water passage and the intake runners, or a cracked head or block. You might want to air pressure test the cooling passages in the block and head, before any disassembly. You will have to rig up a way to block off the thermostat housing for it to hold pressure. Do a search, others have figured out how to do this. I did a dynamic running test with mine were I could see clearly the combustion gasses were getting into the cooling water as soon as the engine was shut off. Took it apart and it was the HGs, so I put on a set of re-man heads (old ones had cracks in the center cyls but this is not where the water was coming it) and were getting too corroded to seal well. Used Fel/Pro marine engine gaskets.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/8lz4p4e7pdrtqr2/summer and fall 2016 232.MOV?dl=0

​Watch what happens in both funnels when I shut the engine off.
​To do this test I had to make it quick because I remove the thermostat, and rigged up a way to keep cooling water going to the exhaust manifolds. So I ran the engine up to about 170 on the gauge and then shut it off. And there were the bubbles in the cooling water....
 

rtoomey641

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Removed intake bolts were not that tight it looks like water was leaking at gasket you can see it is shiny between water passage and intake passages have photos will try to post
 
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